ballitch

suberdave just did this, look for his posts, and search please. ~Josh~

i dont think the P/S EJ lines will wrap around the crossmember like the EA lines naturally do. they might but i wouldnt put much faith in them being easily routed. bolting the EJ pump to the EA lines is a sintch, pretty much cut and dry. ~Josh~

EJ25(2.5 litre), DOHC, better tuning than the EJ22 that came standard in most legacys. what else do you want to know about it? non-turbo, i beleive the handling is the same, but might be a bit better than the L's. ~Josh~

make sure ot use anti-seize when you put them back on. +2 for BFbrassH ~Josh~

SWEET!!!!! ~Josh~

is someone trying to put a WRX rear diff on his car....?? not to my knowledge was there any axle ratio like that on an old suby....i thought they were ALL either 3.70 or 3.90 ~Josh~

your idea for putting a spacer in between engine crossmember and frame is good, ill be doing this to correct my 2.5 degrees of positive camber after my 5-lug swap. i think 1/2'' might be enough, maybe 3/4'' just to be safe. ~Josh~

power steering lines from EA will bolt right up to EJ pump, i did it. you need to manuver the PS lines and bend them slightly to make them fit, be careful not to crease them. your name will change when you get to about 300-500 post count, maybe less, cant remember. the ecu and STRIPPED wire harness fits nice and snug behind the glove box on top of the heat ducting, theres also a nice convienent ground point there too, not to mention the big hole in the firewall that you can stuff your wiring through the grommet. you have to strip the harness, no way around it, sorry. EA rad. works fine for me, but if you want more peace of mind, go with the EJ rad. try to get a EJ rad. from a 90-91 legacy, the bottom mounts are the same distance apart, but are off to one side by like an inch, and its a little taller. stock Y-pipe is adequate, but you need to cut it, and extend one side by like an inch and a half for it to line up with the EJ heads. i suggest gutting it before you put it back on, you will also need to weld in a o2 sensor, or if you have the o2 sensor bung, put the EJ o2 sensor in it. ebay has steel o2 sensor bungs for likk $8-$10 shipped, look around. ~Josh~

its okay, i didnt really rely on it, i knew the wires colors were going to be different. but its worth the $20 and the basic "concept" of what its supposed to look like in the end. i hate the starting of the wire tear down, its so messy and there is SO much elec. tape its not funny. ~Josh~

the EA82 must be like crack or something....... "its called EA82, and its so cheap to make, a little aluminum block, some egg, and i think i tasted 10w-30" ~Josh~

just meet "them" halfway, use medium grade or 89 octane. ~Josh~

it helps if you elevate the front end a foot or so to make the radiator higher than the heater core. ~Josh~

185/70/R13 is the stock size.....those 165's must be pretty squirrely....way too thin. ~Josh~

if you want to do this right, and not want to do it twice, use impreza front stuff, or legacy.......how did you get the legacy knuckles into the EA lower control arm? what ball joint did you use? i might actually "redo" my 5 lug, i dont like that fact that i have 2.5 degrees of positive camber up front. if you use the impreza front stuff, i dont think you will have that problem. P.S. reason i have so much pos. camber is because thats what happens when you do 5-lug and dont lower your car.....but i think impreza stuff has a different strut bolt orientation than the XT6 front stuff. ~Josh~

yes you got it right. and as far as a front limited slip for our cars.....WJM proved to us that ANY limited slip front diff for the wrx or imprezas will bolt right up to our front diffs. they run about $450 or so....not cheap, but it is an option. ~Josh~

sounds like the problem everyone runs into when mixing oldschool with newschool for 5 lug, or upgrades. the XT6 didnt have camber adjustment as far as i know so you need to enlarge the XT6 knuckle to accept the legacy or impreza eccentric bolt on top and the normal bolt on bottom (dont know if XT6 bottom bolt will slip into legacy strut) if you are trying to keep the front e-brake you HAVE to use the XT6 front stuff. after doing my 5-lug i would reccomend using impreza stuff, i was toild this and didnt pay much mind to it. so im telling you you should use the impreza front suspension stuff if you go 5 lug. if you want to keep your front e-brake like i wanted (key word...past tense) you go XT6 front stuff. however, aparently the rear caliper for a 240sx is a direct fit (you might have a slight modification for it to fit.) for the EA rear discs. i am more than likely going this route sometime in the future. i absolutely hate the front e-brake crap.......hate. ~Josh~

13 5/8'' = 346.0750 mm.......34.60750cm.......3.460750 dm......lol gots to love the metric system. but seriously, we need to figure this thing out, if you've heard anything or talked with anyone about this, please speak up, i want 4.44 gears with my D/R tranny, i want to run 27'' tires with the same gearing....hook a brotha up!!!! ~Josh~

second vote for EJ22, you'll love it. and it will turn those beefy tires alot better than the motor you got now. ~Josh~

i used a 20mm front sway at WCSS7...lol i dont if it would help, seeing as my sway bar endlinnk bushings are cracked and degraded like no other. so by the time all the bushings are smashed, the sway bar doesnt have much room to do anything in the way of transferring spring to the other wheel. ~Josh~

look up a couple threads, you'll see we are discussing putting 4.44 gears into D/R trannys. and the only cars to come with the 4.44 gearing is the 95-99 (BD) legacy outback, some 2.5 liter imprezas, and of course the 98 and up forester. ~Josh~

whats the point of 4.44 gears if you lose the D/R? its a wash, you go from 3.90 gearing to 4.44, but you dont have the extra 60% gearing with D/R...and 4.44 minus 3.90 doesnt equal 60% in my mind...... ~Josh~

yes the 94 and 90 autos share the same ratios, take that damn FWD fuse out right away! ~Josh~

need to know what car you plan on doing this to. ~Josh~

do the PS swap while your at it, the lines will be easy to run then, since there wont be an engine in the way. you dont need custom PS, in case you were wondering. all you have to do is tweak them slightly (SLIGHTY, BE CAREFUL!!!!) to get them to fit. my rack came form a 89 DL sedan and my pump came from a 1990's legacy. yes the lines bolt up to the legacy pump. ~Josh~

the alternator is the tensioner, you need napa belt # 050280. but you need to remove a little material from the tension arm on the alternator, the adjustment only goes so far, but you need to go a little farther....i used a file to remove the aluminum. i ran this for along time, until i got the idea of doing the PS swap into my car when i did the 5-lug swap. ~Josh~