ballitch

not to scare you off from a good car, but they do leak, you cant predict them. some are fine, and some just blow every 50k miles or so. you can get the new version of headgasket. its supposed to get rid of the failure rate, by a good percentage. the part # for the new gaskets is 11044aa610. it should look like 4 thin layers of steel. they leak internally, so the hot exhaust gases leak into the cooling system and overheat the motor. depending on the mileage of the car, and how recently/or if, the HG's have been changed you could be okay. but watch out, people know about this problem, and some shady people get rid of the car just before they know the HG's are goin out, or on the way out. you can always throw in a EJ22 in it and call it good for a 100k miles. ~Josh~

its not a turbo EJ20 is it? if its N/A...i dont know if the EJ20 and EJ22 intakes are the EXACT same, they might work back and forth with eachother but i dont know. do you have all the vacuum lines hooked up. MAF hooked up? ignitor module on firewall hooked up? check all your electrical connections first, then you ground/power connections, all your vacuum lines etc. make sure no extra air is getting into the system past the maf sensor, it will screw with the ecu. ~Josh~

as long as the HG's are the same relative thickness you shouldnt have a problem. ~Josh~

even though meth is illegal here, we produce the most in the U.S., right ahead of california....but i know deep down in caleb's heart, he wants a EJ22 with EJ25 heads and TD04 turbo.... ~Josh~

im with noah on this one....what tranny you gonna mate this EJ22 to? ~Josh~

how far away from vancover is LYNNWOOD? id like to know, unless its like 100 miles away....... ~Josh~

not to mentoin you need to RELOCATE the radiator, one guy at WCSS7 had it mounted (w/ fans) on his hood. the ER27 motor is alot longer than the EA82 or the EJ motors. ~Josh~

are you talking front or rear? i dont think im on the same page.... ~Josh~

yeti is right, you can use the newer SOHC block under your DOHC heads, direct drop in. however you will take a small lowering in CR by doing this. if i were you i would look into getting a whole SOHC motor and replacing your DOHC heads. ~Josh~

ya 5x100 is really popular, i bet alot of vehicles share the same rim and offset as those steelies. id do what Josh suggested. ~Josh~

if your going to make an alternator version, make it smaller than stock, so it spins the alt. faster at lower engine speed ( aka idle) that way your volts wont go down as much at a stop sign or light with radio, headlights, brake lights, and all the other stuff sucking juice out of the battery. but as for crank pulleys, i think your wasting your time, they are so cheap already, it would suck to spend money on a part that you can get cheaper, however, if you could source a perrin crank pulley like mine that isnt underdriven you could copy it and sell it for alot cheaper than $120 like i paid for mine. ~Josh~

well since all of us are bi-pedal mammals, you have an area known as the crotch, it self adjusts and keeps you warm drinks warm, and freezes the you-know-whats if its a cold drink....aka beer....whoops....i mean pop..... P.S. j/k about the beer

no need to ask, just type in the words "ej swap" and you've got plenty of reading for the day. ~Josh~

if i were you i would also go to 5 lug suspension, you get better rims/tire options, not to mention you can run wrx everything brakes-wise ( might need to use WRX master cylinder) but the bottom line is you need anything that is drivetrain related, and most of the suspension related stuff from the WRX, or impreza. any sort of EA braking scheme is not going to be adaquate enough for at least 220 chp, you'll crash into......whatever they have in Nairobi...... ~Josh~

no............never.....ive never done that either.............. ~Josh~

the EA flywheel centers itself just like the EJ flywheels. all you have to do is mount the flywheel to the EJ motor, and slot out the EA crank holes a little bit to get the right EJ crank bolt pattern, its ghetto but it works. i did this at first, using some 3/16'' dowel pins as extra reinforcement. i just drilled through the flywheel and about 1/2'' into the EJ crank(in between two bolts). i put 3 dowels in. each dowel was rated above 800 lbs of shear strength. again it's ghetto-fab, but it works. i used 1/2'' aluminum plate for my adapter, i would use steel the secon time around, the aluminum is too soft. i had to all-thread and heli-coil a stud into the adapter to be able to mount the starter more securely. as for the other side, opposite the starter, you can weld 2 engine-tranny studs together, side by side. this offset is the exact offset you need to attach the left side(cylinder 1 and 3 side) to the left side of the tranny. you need to remove a little material from the block to get atleast 1'' of weld overlap on the 2 studs. the reason for this is that the EJ top left stud is right next to the EA tranny top left stud, so you cant heli-coil or all-thread the adapter plate, you need to weld the studs together. and when you do this, DO NOT dip the welded studs into water to cool them down to check weld and do other side. it makes them brittle and you will snap the new stud when you go to tighten down the motor to the tranny. it might not happen to you, but it did happen to me. but i was brazing them together, i didnt have a mig or tig to use, and the stick welder was not my cup of tea. ~Josh~

the phase II pistons dont go past the deck surface like the phase I's, so your CR would go down. but only if you used the phase I heads on phase II block. are your heads toast? if so then just swap your intake harness over to the new RS motor, and change/modify any sensors that are different. take a look over on nasioc.com, the onfo HAS to be there of all places. ~Josh~

oyu could score a wrx wagon (2002) for $12k, depending on your location, i know in oregon you can get them for that price or lower. but if you want to go camping, hiking, fishing, .......4 wheeling..... i would suggest a legacy outback. lots more room than an impreza model, save forester. and it has the phase II 2.5 litre. that dont blow HG's like the phase I's, at least not as often. plus, there are plenty of upgrades and aftermarket parts for it already available. but the 2000+ outback is going to set you back more than $16k, so you wouldnt have to finance too much. ~Josh~

they are semi-functional.....those cars didnt come with turbo, so they dont cool an intercooler, but they still let a little engine bay heat escape, and at freeway speeds i imagine there is a slight benefit. its not like they are on the hood for show and blocked off by a piece of plastic underneath. ~Josh~

yes they will work, you might be a couple mph's off at like 80 mph.....not a big deal. plus your tires wont roll as much in corners....that means you can take corners faster....to a point..... afterall, i put wrx rims and tires on my 98 legacy. from 185/75/R14 to 205/55/R16 ~Josh~

i think you need impreza axles, cause IIRC the legacy does have a wider track. if your using impreza axles, you need the impreza hub, which means you need the impreza knuckle, which go good with impreza front struts....but i think you can bolt legacy struts onto impreza knuckles, but dont quote me. ~Josh~

i use it in my tranny, and in motor. if it helps cool, if it doesnt fine. i too was tempted by the display case in napa. i only paid $8 for it so im not out too much money....unless my motor fries because of it........ ~Josh~

special order my a$$....they still sell them, just cause subaru isnt as popular as honda means its all "special order" about $75 a piece sounds about right. i think the rears are a little more money IIRC. ~Josh~

you still need the xt6 front lower control arm....i think the xt6 and impreza/legacy balljoints are the same.....read that somewhere. take it from me, use the impreza front knuckles and struts, trust me. you wont have a front e-brake, but that can be fixed later on. ~Josh~

well since your going to be using a legacy or wrx tranny, or any other type of Ej tranny, you might as well go to 5 lug like baccaruda said, use impreza stuff up front, and the xt6 out back. this way you wont have as much headache when you try to mate tranny to the hubs. search for accord rear spring swap, and you got your info right there. as far as front springs, when you swap over to impreza stuff, you can use wrx, or sti springs if you want. but id stick with wrx springs up front, anything too stiff will cause alot of understeer, afterall, the accord springs in back can only make up for so much. ~Josh~