ballitch

with the elec. fan you should run cooler. make sure the fan is blowing the right direction and if its not, change it. if you still are having problems, grab another fan and get it in there. but i would start with a radiator flush first. ~Josh~

i had them on my car, before the 5 lug swap, but never did raise the struts, but if you search for the procedure im sure you'll find out how to do it. ~Josh~

if it has 5 forward gears, and has 2 gear shift levers, its a dual range tranny. if you get a D/R tranny from a turbo car, the low range is like 1.20:1 whereas the N/A dual range is 1.59:1 or something along those lines. ~Josh~

i dont want to take any sales away from you.... but you can make it yourself if you cant wait. search as previously stated and you will get all the info you need. look for threads by myself, austin, baccaruda, and a few others. ~Josh~

i would do a spfi swap if you have the funds. any sort of fuel injection is going to get as good or better mileage than a carb. but if you really are considering a spfi swap, you might as well fork over the extra bones for a EJ18 or EJ22 swap, hard to justify to the woman, but worth it. id go EJ18 for the swap if i were you. you have to strip down a wire harness for either of those swaps so you might as well strip the one with the most power......im biased but thats besides the point. with an EJ22 you would get about 26 mpg highway only. with a EJ18, you could get 30. but if you want it simple and easy, grab a 3.70 rear diff(lsd or not) and throw it in there. you might see a marginal boost in mileage but you drive on gravel roads so i doubt it. most gas stations switch to ethanol blend in the winter. but you should be fine as long as you dont get too crazy with the timing. dont re-jet your carb or anything like that. ~Josh~

get some kyb GR-2's, they are OEM but have better damping than the stock crap, and you can use your stock springs if you want. are you planning to buy both front and rear? ~Josh~

SUBARU FTW!!!!! :headbang:

ive heard real rave reviews from the peeps in the northeast about them. any more than 6'' you might want to think about a different tire, but they grip a helluva lot better on ice and snow than any other all season. its all in the tread compound basically. SCC did a little article about that tire a while back. not to bad in the dry either. ~Josh~

besides the outback, forester, and wrx, all imprezas and legacys share the same final drive, 4.111, so you can mix and match trannys. only thing is the gear ratios might be different from generation to generation, but as long as you match the final drive with your tranny you will be fine. i would like to see a fwd 5 speed from an EA car in a impreza w/ a helical front diff. ~Josh~

as far as the adapter plate goes.....find some 1/8'' plywood at least 16''x16''. make sure you have access to the tranny to use a template(and the EJ motor for a template) remove any engine or tranny bolts/studs. just use a hammer to get the plywood past the dowel pins on the tranny and motor. take a pencil or sharpee marker and slide it into the tranny bolt holes, mark the plywood. do the same for the engine side of the adapter plate. basically your using the plywood as a "jig" for the adapter plate. hel, you can even use construction paper of cardboard if you have to. once you have your jig made, just transfer the pattern to the 1/2'' steel or aluminum ( i reccommend steel) plate you have. and cut/drill it out. now once you do this you will realize that the top left (if looking at tranny) bolt holes for the tranny and motor are really close together. if you take 2 motor studs and weld them together (at least 1'' of overlap on the studs) it makes the correct stud offset that you need for the adapter plate. you may have to remove some of the metal from around the bolt on the motor side. you just drill out the top left holes and remove all material between the 2 holes, making a slot for your ghetto-rigged motor stud. hope that made sense. ~Josh~

i followed austin's way also, it works fine. i also deleted the SMJ plug, way too much crap in there you dont need. screw the fuel pump relay crap, the computer doesnt need to know its on, it just sends a signal telling the relay to turn on the fuel pump. go around the ecu, wire in the fuel pump directly to a toggle switch(hidden wherever you like, and with a fuse, 10-15A should do fine) and there you go. to get power to your harness, you need only to tap into your current ignition switch thingy, its in the steering column. find the wire that is hot when the key is in the ON position, not ACC. tap into that and now your harness is powered by your stock ignition relay. for your EJ ecu "hot at all times" wire, run a wire from the battery and thats done, put a fuse in line. as long as you didnt plug the plug wires in the wrong way like i did the first time i tried to start my motor......find a legacy or impreza that has good cam/crank angle sensors, swpa them out and see if it works. hopefuly you didnt get in a rush and splice some wire somewhere in the harness someplace that its not supposed to go. ~Josh~

you ask for 12mm steel plate and the guy at the steel yard will look at you funny....1/2'' is fine, or use the 7/16'' stuff with a little spacer between starter and tranny. i know the older stuff is cheaper, but the EJ stuff is a helluva lot faster..... ~Josh~

i noticed that i could take of quicker in rwd because there isnt as much wheelspin. but in the wet it was interesting, not very much traction and weight out back..... it drives alot different in rwd BTW. ~Josh~

well since you already made your decision, i say EJ22 heads on the Ej25 block, phase I block has to use DOHC EJ25 HG, phase II block can use the thin SOHC HG. you have to run premium, but its not like you weren't already.............. ~Josh~

let me guess......you just rolled over 180k miles a couple days ago.....and as previously stated, its milegae controlled. maybe you should have come to us sooner...that way you didnt have to pull and replace all those carbs and EGR stuff, kinda makes you mad that its just 2 little wires huh? ~Josh~

please tell me that you didnt have a mullet when you had your camaro...... ~Josh~

it will only put strain on the clutch or tranny if you start to peel out.....but i dont think it is a problem, your tranny can take it....as long as you dont abuse the crap out of it. ~Josh~

I would keep the EJ motor stock, the 4 speed can maybe handle as much power as the 5 speed D/R, but when you put 140 ft. lbs of torque in front of it you are walking a fine line between power to the ground....and shredded tranny bits. be especially careful while shifting quickly, and please dont dump the clutch in a futile attempt to have your tires spin. you wont need to try........trust me. it actually is kind of annoying, in the wet in FWD you have to try NOT to burn out, and forget going anywhere quickly from a stop in the wet. with the stock tires i could spin all the way through 3rd gear no problem, without any fansy clutch/launch techniques. ~Josh~

no.....no need for that as suberdave said, youre, going to strip the harness down to like only 40-50 wires anyway. maybe your dad thought you had to "transplant" harnesses or something. ~Josh~

you could always run a fused power off a relay or directly off the ign relay( in the run position). just "T" into the ignition stuff in the steering column, run a power wire from there when you make sure the power is on during the RUN part of the ignition. and then run a wire (14 or 16ga.) back to the fuel pump, and find a ground point and there you go. ~Josh~

when i did my swap i didnt bother with any of the ign relay or fuel pump relay crap. its just more wires that you dont need....after all, you already have a fuel and ign relay on your car...... anyway, this happened to me when i first tried to strart my EJ22 swap....did the same thing, plenty of fuel but no spark, but sometimes it sounded like it really wanted to turn over. the problem was i had the ignitor plugs all messed up. i had the ifgnitor turned around backwards, so instead of firing cyl. #1 i ws trying to fire cyl. #4, which didnt work. maybe your cam or crank angle sensors are bad. but this sounds just like what happened to me, so i figured i'd through it out there. ~Josh~

are you swapping just the motor? or the tranny too? ~Josh~

are the EA82 bearings the slide-into-place kind, like the xt6 with the little C-clip thingy that holds the bearing in place until your torque your axle down? if so new bearings are way better than used/questionable hubs, sure you get the whole hub assembly when you buy a used hub, but you dont know what the bearings are like. i cant seem to find any on ebay right now so i cant give you a price on how much it would be for new bearings. ~Josh~

i dont think you needed the prop. valve on an EA82 car. but i could be wrong, hell, i didnt change prop. valves when i went to 5 lug and rear disc. maybe thats why the car has so much front bias........i dont know. ~Josh~

IIRC, its like $65 per cam, so $130, but you need to pay for shipping to their place in tacoma, WA. or if you live close by you just drop them off. i wouldnt think more than$20- $25 to have them shipped up there, but i think they pay to ship them back to you. ~Josh~