ballitch

the ej motors all are pretty much the same length from tranny to crank pulley, the only thing that really differs is the height of the heads, and the gasket......which is like maybe a 1/4'' difference between smallest-biggest. the only other obstacle is the whole SOHC, or DOHC issue, which really shouldnt be a problem. ~Josh~

i think this has been brought up many, many, many times before. sure it would be nice, but why? with gas prices the way they are, you want to throw some prehistoric carbuerated, pushrod activated dinosaur under your suby's hood? dont get me wrong, im all for innovation and creative ideas, but a god darned V-8? you could find a way to throw a 400R or turbo350 tranny behind that motor to handle the power, and convert to rwd and live rear-end out of a nova or someting....but when you're all done....it will be fast as greased crap, but you wouldnt have a suby anymore. try baby steps, like a ER27, or EJ22. those are both good starting points.....and tell bow-tie boy that pushrods are ghey. ~Josh~

i would try over at nasioc.com or legacycentral.org, those pinouts might have already been posted by someone. thanks for all your help. ~Josh~

forester struts would work fine, but that is like 2 inches of extra strut, maybe more. might not be so good on axles, but you could try it, i remember someone here did it to their impreza not too long ago. id just use the stock forester wheels, arent they a little bigger diameter than the stock imp' wheels? definately need an alignment after that though. you might want to think about a 2.2 conversion, basically a drop-in affair. if you search you will see what im talking about. ~Josh~

that was awesome.....makes me want to go out and tear it up with my car!!!!! ~Josh~

if you want an easy way to replace fluid here you go: put fornt of car in air with jack and jackstands. loosen and remove the return line from the PS pump, its the rubber one, not the hardline. make sure you have a helper. start car and keep the PS fluid level up to not allow air into the system. keep car running and new fluid pouring into resevoir until you have about 1.5 qts. in catch basin. shut off car, re-attach return line to PS pump. rinse and repeat to reach desired effect...opps, reading shampoo bottle.... ~Josh~

well if you put impreza springs/struts into a legacy and it makes it sit lower, then legacy springs/struts should make it sit higher. you could cut about an inch off of the legacy springs, and put them back on the legacy struts. but you know you can get the wrx springs/struts for the 93 impreza right....and brakes, wheels, steering rack, sway bars....etc.. ~Josh~

clutch fans are one of those things we wish we could dis-invent. horrible idea. get rid of it, wire in another electric fan and call it good. just go to the JY and pick one up, chances are its okay. ~Josh~

if oyu can find some sort of heat and oil prrof sealant that wont screw up the motor you can do what i did. kind of ghetto but it works, just leaks oil out the oil pressure sender. if you look closely at the EJ oil pres. sender it has 2 parts, one threads into the block, and the other is the oil pres. sensor, and it threads into the plug that threads into the block...catch all of that? i dont have any pics so im sorry. but my point is that you CAN screw the EA sender into the EJ block as long as you remove the EJ-oil sender-plug-thingy. once you do that the thread pitch is the same, but the diameter is off a little bit, just enough to tighten it down, but not enough to seal it. what i plan to do is make a sort of "T" so i can use both the EJ sensor and the EA sender. although i dont reccomend this, it does work, im just too lazy right now to fix it the right way, got bigger fish to fry. ~Josh~

you might be able to find someone locally that has them, or can get them. shipping would be pretty spendy. ~Josh~

ya man just leave your lights on, wont do any harm, other than make you go through headlight bulbs a little faster. ~Josh~

thats exactly what i did, except for the whole turbo wagon part......please search, you have many questions and they have already been answered, you need not look anymore for the info. so what prompted you to want an EJ motor in your loyale? ~Josh~

the bottom line is that aluminum will work, but its so much more expensive than steel that it offsets any gain in lightness. after all, you might not save even 10-15 lbs. thats 2 gallons of gas. you would spend twice as much on aluminum over steel, and you'd save some weight, but not anything worthwhile. its just not cost effective. ~Josh~

ya the vacuum solenoids have been known to fail. and the wiring could be slightly corroded. if you search for the trouble shooting of the vacuum solenoids, you might find out its the solenoid and not the wiring, but check the wiring first. ~Josh~

all the DOHC blocks are the same. you can swap in a SOHC block and use it just fine. only thing is your compression will be a little lower, since the SOHC blocks dont have pistons that go outside the block at TDC. if you look over on nasioc.com, you will find alot of answers if you search. ~Josh~

i dont get what the big deal is for this conversion. all you do is weld it up, and redrill the damn holes, the flywheel centers itself for christ's sake. do machine shops not care anymore? its not that big of a deal to me. weld holes, check........redrill holes using customers template/flexplate/EJ crank, check......total time.....not $250........i guess if you want to do this EJ swap, you need to either bend over the counter, or bring a case or two of beer for the shop you take it too....or do it yourself with a dremel and about 2 hours of your time. then go to a fastener supply store that deals in high-grade bolts and washers, and ask for some dowels, get a grade 5 at least. 3/16'' dowels can handle about 300 shear lbs of torque, use 3 or 4 of them and you have no movement, and no risk of shearing your flywheel bolts. i tried this the first go-round with my first flywheel, then i just paid mudrat to do it for me. btw, i thought that our flywheel's are cast iron and cant be welded up, i guess i was wrong.......... ~Josh~

she might have borken the little plastic thing that locks the door. ive done it before too. you have to get the plastic piece on the inside of the car off, you cant do it from underneath the car. no you dont have to take the filler neck off. you just undo the cable, and get a new locking mechanism from a JY or dealer. although the JY is MUCH, MUCH, cheaper. ~Josh~

the look of the projectors is nice, my brother has a set of BD/BG projectors on his 1995 legacy, it looks sweet. the only thing is he doesnt have them aimed right so the beam pattern is all messed up. i looked into those JDM fogs once also, but when i noticed you had to do some custom mounting crap i decided that if i wanted fogs, i would just spend $50-$75 on some nice ones and be sure they would work. rather than spending $200 on something ill have to modify to get to work, and put out the beam i want. ~Josh~

if you do this please cut about 1.5'' off the spring, if you're not hauling alot of tools around. sure its nice to have a slight lift, but as you will find, the springs will max out the strut and the strut will be at full extension all the time, except when you go over a bump. i didnt cut my springs and it damn near killed my neck. it was easier to get the rear end out on turns, but beyond that it sucked a$$. after the 5 lug and accord rear springs w/ new struts, and used 02' wrx strut/spring combo up front it does pretty good. except for the 2.5* of positive camber i have...but that will be fixed with a 3/4'' mini-wanna-be-lift in betwen the crossmember and unibody. please, please, please, cut your springs. i had to take them off a second time and do it right. right now after its all done, the back is about 1.5'' higher than the front. you WILL hurt your rear CV's if you dont cut springs, i noticed a slightly worn/polished area on my rear CV"s when i rebuilt them while doing the 5 lug swap. ~Josh~

in future, all you have to do is jack up front of car and wiggle top and bottom, and side to side on the wheel, if it moves, its going bad, and if they get too bad, they will seize the wheel and make you buy a new knuckle. glad you figured out your problems, how much did they charge you for the wheel bearing replacements? ~Josh~

i say use the impreza fornt stuff with the XT6 lower control arm, if you cant find lower control arms im sure someone here can help you out with that. give them $20 plus the cost of shipping and the price of the lower control arms. ~Josh~

i think ALL subaru motors fire in the same order if im not mistaken. ~Josh~

you know what happens when you assume, dont you? a shop might not have resurfaced the flywheel, and they might have just used your old pressure plate also, and only replacing the clutch. yes, the XT6 disc is a perfect fit, try to get your flywheel machined to XT6 spec. and get an XT6 pressure plate. that of course if the worst case senario. other than that you could try just getting a new pressure plate......maybe you should see if your clutch cable is tightened right....just to rule out possibilities. ~Josh~

screw the front e-brake, i hate it. i wish i would have used the legacy/impreza front stuff for my swap. i only didnt because i was unsure if the impreza balljoint would fit into the XT6 control arm, but since they do, i might have to make a trip to the JY and swap out some items. not to mention i have 2.5 degrees of positive camber, which makes for horrible on-road cornering. and dont even get me started with the grind down the XT6 knuckle and sandwich the impreza strut onto it crap........... ~Josh~

like already stated, air in the system. dont get too hastey with the phase I HG issue just yet. there is a bleed screw on the EJ radiators. loosen it and do all that mumbo-jumbo. if that doesnt work then you might want to buy this part. 11044AA610, its the new 4-layer HG. that is a subaru part number, look on nasioc.com for the proper head bolt torqueing ritual, and follow it to the "T". ~Josh~