ballitch

good job. haynes and chiltons will lead you astray all the time, arent you glad you stopped by to ask a question? ~Josh~

i dont see the big deal, besides the inconveinence of it all. to me a car that goes for more than 60k w/o any major issues is a decent car. and the HG's are known to be prone to failure at about 80-90k. not a big deal, when they go bad, get them replaced. its really easy to see if you have the phase I or phase II EJ25, look at your timing belt covers, if you see 4 ciclre-like patterns(two on each side of motor) you have the DOHC motor, if only two like the EJ18 and EJ22, you have SOHC. ~Josh~

need to know car model and year and all that good stuff first, then we can help ya out. ~Josh~

i remember something to the tune of next to impossible, something about the AWD ring and pinions are deeper than the D/R ring and pinion. there is a thread or two about it, however, some guy in australia put 4.11 gears into a D/R tranny. but if you were going to go through all that hassle, i would just get the 4.44 gears for better crawl, and you could run big tires without having to worry so much about loss of gearing. but thats just what i would do. i would love to have this in my car, maybe mudrat79 will enlighten us since he's torn all kinds of suby trannys apart, and knows what will and wont work. ~Josh~

there arent any more codes that its throwing? just the o2 sensor? if thats the case then just change it and see if it cures that problem. you can get direct replacements online from ebay or oxygensensors.com, there are a couple to choose from and you can get the cheaper wire-it-in-yourself for about $10 less, just have to swap over connectors, but i say splurg the extra dough and get the replacement, less hassle. try to get a bosch one. ~Josh~

cylinder #3 is on the left side of motor, if youre looking at it with hood up. plugs and wires are a good place to start, but you can get replacement plugs and wires from G.I. Joes for like $32 for all of it. make sure to get the NGK V-copper ones, they are awesome plugs. as far as wires go, i dont know how much performance or longevity you'd get formt he high-dollar ones compared to the cheapys, but i guess you get what you pay for......most of the time. ~Josh~

i hate that damn switch, hit the darn thing at least once a year and drain my battery. diffenately not a good place for it. ~Josh~

will try to post on saturday. ~Josh~

regarding the correct belt length, i already did your work for you, before i went to power steering(which is awesome BTW) the NAPA # is 050280, its the right size, but you have to remove a little (1/4'') of metal from the slot in the alternator bracket. your alternator slides up and down to loosen or tighten the belt, you have to slot upwards to get the belt to proper tension. the belt dimensoins are 11/16'' X 28 5/8'' or 18mm X 725 mm. ~Josh~

are EA82T's dual port or single port? if they are single port you can get the borla single port header, and cut one pipe, then extend it about 1.5'', if you know how to weld stainless, it could be done, but only if EA82T's are single port. i had to do the reverse for my EJ22 conversion, i used my EA82 header with the single port EJ22. ~Josh~

nope, you have piston ring blow-by, not a big problem as long as you dont start to use a lot of oil, the it starts to foul plugs, gets crappy mileage and starts clogging things up. while you had the heads off you could have pulled the pistons and put new rings on.....but woulda, shoulda, coulda. ~Josh~

that looks fake, hate to say it man, but it doesnt look bad at all, just "minor flesh wounds" like what was said before, looks like you paid someone to have your car put upside down. id try the pound out body-work idea first, and if that dont work, take him up on his free roof... looks cool though, what did dad say..."oh great, good job son, i told you to counter-steer" and then youre like "dad, im 17, i know how to jack up a car" anyone seen christopher tidus..... ~Josh~

if your connections are good, new alternator, theres only a couple things it could be, like battery or grounds or fusible links, did you check both fuse panels? the second one is under the dash near the place you rest your left foot. ~Josh~

you have the EJ18 motor, if you do a search for AWD swap or go to legacy777's site you will find all the info you need. ~Josh~

fork that,........... EJ22!!!! and do everything else he said.... ~Josh~

i dont think this is swap related, unless you messed with the alarm system while you swapped motors......try going to the dealer to get them fixed, if they try to charge you an arm and a leg, try ebay for some used ones. ~Josh~

its pretty much like this....remove old crap 4 speed....get 5 speed D/R tranny.....hoist tranny into position, bolt to motor, hook up rear driveline if equipped, and recconnect any wiring and speedo cable, and axles of course..and i think that pretty much covers it... ~Josh~

if wanting to use legacy tranny, and you dont have a lift kit installed, you need to bang the tranny tunnel a bit to get the tranny to bolt up right, or at least that was what i was told. ~Josh~

ya what he said. it would be safe to say the you can do your own HG's, this is the part number for the HG's you need to get. 11044AA610, trust me, i have them in my dads shop right now. im using them for my frankenmotor project. grab a haynes or chiltons manual form G.I. Joes or autozone, or whereever. follow the destructions, and post here if you are unclear on anything. keep in mind that you have DOHC (dual overhead cam) and that cam be a pain in the a$$ when you try to re-align the timing belt. while you do this HG, get new timing belt, cam seals and crank seals (front and rear) and a oil seperator plate (the aluminum one). the price for all that is about what you would pay for a used EJ22 in decent condition, but it wouldn't have alll the new seals and HG's. if you dont feel comfortable doing this, well, try to get comfortable, very valuable experience, just dont move the cams once you take them off the motor. if you want, take heads to a machine shop and ask if they can check to see if the heads are warped at all. if they are, try to have them machined to within spec. ~Josh~

honestly, if your going from carb to SPFI, you might as well go to an EJ swap, its not much more wiring than the SPFI, and you get about 40 HP more than the SPFI swap. only difference between the two is mechanical. which is decently easy. a big plus is there are so many people doing this swpa now its easy to find an answer to ANY question you have or problem you run into. not to mention all the guess-work is already done for you, you only need to search and ask questions. if youre going to try to overbore and get better cams, have fun, but you might be very disappointed by the extreme lack of aftermarket support for these cars, its really quite pathetic. ~Josh~

alternator, fusible links, or dead battery, and you should check your engine bay grounds, make sure your grounds are all good and not corroded. ~Josh~

<----- would like to have pictures when your done....needs to build himself a steel bumber/pushbar. ~Josh~

for future people with similar problem and actually use the search function to find answers....... remove cotter pin from tie-rod end castle nut, loosen tie-rod end castle nut a couple turns, use brass hammer and whack pretty good on the castle nut/ threads, should pop loose, if not, use pickle fork (a.k.a. ball joint seperator), remove old tierod end leaving tighening nut IN PLACE, watch closely as you unscrew old tie-rod end( note its positoin when it comes off), put new tie-rod end on starting with the correct(or close to it) position, good idea to do struts/springs/bearings while you do this, cause it requires you to get an alignment, unless you are really good at getting things back together perfectly. ~Josh~

manual or auto tranny? guessing manual....but maybe someones done that swap....but i highly reccommend using a 4wd tranny if you can...lots of wheel spin with the low gearing of the EA trannies. ~Josh~

or you could leave the fan wiring alone and have it come on when the temp. requires it to cool the coolant down. but what suberdave said sounds logical to me, ever play with little DC motors hooked in parallel? i was getting about 24-26 mpg with mixed city/highway driving, but i think my o2 sensor is crap, i got it from the JY when i did the swap. and new ones are like $75. try IAC valve, plugs, plug wires, maf sensor, o2 sensor, ignitor, stuff like that. just your basic tune-up. and of course MPG is directly proportional to how much work your right foot does...... ~Josh~