MudisFun

If you get a good amount of sheet metal the center will look cool! But then why not do the whole dash metal.

I might have one for you, $18. The disty is all electrical no vac advance lines. It came out of a 91? Loyale, looks alright.

Fair enough. We both kick a**!

Here ya go... 1. Crank the engine untill the first cylinder reaches Top Dead Center. Remove the spark plug from the cylinder closes to the electric fan, this is #1. Pull the rubber cover off of the bell housing so that you are able to read the numbers of advanced timing. Rotate the crank shaft by using a box wrench on the acorn type nut holding the pulley down. Stick your finger over the plug hole. You are feeling for the compression stroke, that is when the piston reaches TDC and declines to BDC without either valve opening. So when you feel air pushing from the combustion chamber (cylinder), that is when the piston is compressing the air/gas mixture. If the the crank is rotated a few more degrees (15 or somthing) the flow will change and the piston will try to suck you finger into the chamber. When moving beyond the compression stroke you are simulating the power, downward force, provided by the mixture being ignited by the spark plug. Find the spot between the two strokes and that is TDC. Now look at the flywheel or flex plate and line up the marker with the degrees BTDC indecated by your manual or our Calebz, your almost done! 2. Set the distributor. Most manuals will describe a system using two arrows... it's confusing. With the disty dis-engauged from the drive gear on the cam shaft, remove the disty cap. Rotate the shaft by turning the ignition rotor (the plastic cap with a strip of metal on the top). Since the engine is at the point which it requires a spark at the first cylinder, the rotor should be over the right over the first cylinder's spark plug wire on the disty cap. At this point you might see where the arrow system works. Set the disty into the cam, locking the gears. Check the cap one more time to make sure that the rotor is where it should be. This might take a few tries. 3. Fire her up! Replace the spark plug, cap, wire, and vac advance lines. Make sure everything is ready and then fire her up, if she will. If nothing happens but the starter cranking, that's bad. If the engine starts and sounds like crap, good. Play with the timing untill it will hold a spark so you can run to the timing gun. Don't pull out the disty from the cam until you have run out off of space but keep in mind that most likely if you did step 1 & 2 correctly it's all good but might need a second person so you a examine the timing light while someone rotates the crank using the starter. Good Luck Looks like I showed someone up!!

I'm thinking that going to kinko's is list the list of things to do to day!

What are you thinking? The clutch fan takes a bit of engine power to run, the electronic fan switch in the rad or the relay are bother some. You have got the bling-bling of subbie fans, that's right it's all about the switch! If the runs even with the the key out, well then you need to do some rigging but otherwise leave it.

"Once people figure out that the engine revs up rather high, they have a lot more fun merging onto the highway. As we observed, "You can drive it like you stole it, and still not speed." And that's why I never got a ticket, even when as a stupid kid I needed one. Thank god for age with/without wisdom!

What are you thinking? Change the oil! I don't cre who you got it from but go down to an auto shop and pick out a flush, one qt. to ever one qt. of oil (I don't care what the bottle says) run for ten+ minutes parked, drain and fill, drive ten miles, drain and fill. I might not up you pressure but it's worth it!

I think matty? and ballich? are both right. I gave a subbie to a friend with almost the same amount of damage, ran for almost a year just glad you haven't got that call from the fuzz yet

Northwet, glad you got you EA81 rad, didn't mean to give you a fright. I hoped I haved a chance to a spend a few with you an Ed but the work and time didn't alow it (I say DAMN RIGHT to that 2.2) I was hoping to show my EA82 rad with EA81 heads, five coils, two starters, wiper motor, two head light assems, two fans, ect... taped down. It was sweet! Got my $30 worth. Good too hear you got that engine after all of ed's cuss'in.

Yes , it's normal. Some PB Blaster (be really really careful where that goes), three hours and a good rubber hammer should do the trick if you don't get your hands on that puller.

Turns out it was not the Alternator . I checked the fuse and links but still there is no charging! I read something about a IR Regulator, may be some one can help explain this system to me?

I could hardly sleep after I heard the news! The 84 DL will be running by then, maybe even lifted? Yah can't wait, how may kegs can you fit into a Subaru?

Yep, one dot up and one dot down. The crank dot should match up with either one cam shaft. Good Luck!

I would just put in some redline gear oil, that lucas stuff is damn good but a synthetic gear oil would be my rec. If you want to play around buy the lucas made for motor oil, I almost swear by it!

How new are the half shafts?

That's good to hear! Hopefully someday your wife will learn that mun is fun and driving sideways is even better.

Did the starter rotate while you checked for a spark?

Sometime getting that disty in can be a pain. When pushing her down I noticed that the gears might 'find there place' in the wrong place. Try using the manual's instructions, tdc and the arrow.

I know with a manual trans an easy unstick it putting it in first then rolling the car. I don't think that would be wise with either trans, but it is a quick fix for stuck linkage. If you do try this and it doesn't work than an eye inspection while the trans is being shifted should shows the problem (two man job, be careful).

I rec that just use your own wire. Running a set up through the trunk is not that hard and can make room for a sub that much easier. If it is a wagon finding those wires might help but still what is a cd player without two twelves? Should be about forty at a pawn shop.

I have worked at a lube shop for a good while now and am not going to promote any mile based oil change! The man will tell you a good time to change fluids in you vehicle but thoses are based on test, in a lab after running the vehicle on a course or dyno set-up. Mostly these are good recs, but BOTTOM LINE: when oil (gear, motor, atf, ps) gets dirty then change it. There is always the people who come in every 3000 Miles to get the service but the oil is still good, and then there are people who won't drain and fill a gear box because the book says they don't have to yet. Check your oil if it is tar black use a flush and change the oil, if the oil is brown running down your finger then change it, if it still holds a yellow tint when running down your finger you should be good. As far as the filter, every time. I have change my oil at 2000 miles and changed it out at 5000 miles, use the rule of the finger!

"I hate Anchorage driving so I avoid it as much as possible." Word...:cool:

Does the car have a good amount of gas in it? Sorry, had to. :-p