TheSubaruJunkie

Ahhh, okay, I was missing the second 1st gear. I'll agree, its freaking slow! And that is going to make everything easier on the trail.

When did subaru have 22:1 low range? What am i missing?

Hrm... using this calculator: http://www.riversideruffriders.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=home.crawlCalc & this chart: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84798 I came up with 42:1 crawl ratio. Not sure if I did it wrong. I assume you are using the EA82 d/r 5spd?

95:1... how'd you come up with that? Indeed very impressive. Lets hope it doesn't die that easily everytime you try to crawl onto a rock.

I give it 3 out of 5 stars for difficulty. If you look through the USRM, you will find a good picture documentary on how to remove and replace the front bearings. You are looking at about $70 in parts for each side. Special tools include: 36mm socket Big Hammer Some kind of solid bar at least 18" long to drive the bearings out. Here is the Photo Essay I was speaking of: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=77491

There will be a hoop, but all that will come when I design the cage. Right now, im worried about protecting the winch, and making sure everything its attached to is solid.

I went to my buddies place to do some work on the 4Runner. I had to reinforce the frame where the steering box is mounted. Apparently it was in real bad shape. While I was there, my friend mentioned how much work we would need to do to my truck to get it prepared for the Winch. Confused I asked "What winch" and then he continues to explain how he got a 12,000lb WARN to replace his 8000lb WARN. And that I'd be getting his old winch! So... it didnt take long to start cutting plate and welding pieces. Here is what we have to start with: and here is the winch: One simple plate, 4 holes... and here we have a mounted winch! I have 25' of 1.75" tube to use, so when the weather clears up we'll have to bring out the bender. So far, I think i am going to do something simple like this: Hopefully I'll have new updates shortly!

Yes very cool. And i have 4.7:1 gears in my 4runner, i bet it would be ***************in in a subaru!

Yes, just remove the oil sender from the pump & attach your line to the pump itself. Careful where you route the line to the gauge, the line will become full of Oil and if you happen to run it near the exhaust and it melts the line, you will develop a horrible oil leak. Also be careful, the cheap plastic tube they give you with most kits is hard to un-coil, and will kink very easily. This will restrict the oil pressure reaching the guage and give you a faulty reading.

Good luck with the mega squirt. I would just run with the stock EJ22 ECU.

Trail Gear had them on sale when I posted that. I guess their sale is over, cause they are back up to $350. Still not a bad deal.

You are going to notice more power at lower rev's.

Step 1: Hold your axle by the shaft, with the outer joint pointed down. Step 2: Grab the largest hammer in the drawer and start beating on the backside of the CV joint until the joint seperates from the shaft. Watch your toes. Re-install the hub portion of the CV joint... drive your car in 4WD and you now have a RWD subaru.

Must have been a while, we have a whole sub-forum dedicated to the swap. Take another look at the front-page

I need that dash, but im too broke (oh, and too far away)

Hello... welcome to the message board!! Take 45 seconds and look around. You will find answers to all your questions (and even more!) If you dont have 45 seconds to look around, make use of our handy dandy search feature!

Do yourself a favor and get a REAL MBC... not some $10 home made piece of crap. I tried the home made piece of crap once, and nearly destroyed my engine. Boost was never steady and fluctuated between 8psi & 12psi alot. I then went to ebay and bought a much nicer MBC made by Go Fast Bits... and it worked 1000x better. Believe me (and Rob.. & everyone else who tells you) boost control is not the place to cut corners or go cheap on. Do it right, or plan on doing it over again.

Installing an intercooler is no "plug-n-play" operation. It will take fabrication for mounts & piping. You also need to make sure to install a Bypass Valve. I suggest you read up on how turbo's work, what intercoolers REALLY do, and what other components EA82T's are missing, that should really be there to begin with.

You need to drive the bearings out from the inside. There is a collar inside the hub that keeps the bearings from being pressed too far in, so you must drive them out of each end with a bar. There is also a spacer that goes between each bearing as well, and you need to make sure you dont forget to re-install it. If your bearings are in good shape, you can just re-lube them and install the new axle. and yes, just use the nut on the ball joint to pull it through the lower control arm. I do not recommend messing with the sway-bar mounts... as it can be a real pain in the rump roast to get back together.

Usually I remove the cam bolt from the steering knuckle and pry the balljoint from the knuckle, leaving it in the lower control arm. Usually, this saves you from destroying the rubber boot on the balljoint. If the balljoint is floppy and easy to rotate by hand.... then you should replace it now. Since you are in there and have everything torn apart already.

Yeah right now i have no e-brake at all. And rear disc's would be a welcome upgrade. Right now Trail-Gear just offered a rear disc conversion kit that comes with pretty much everything you need (calipers, rotors etc...). My only problem is money. I also like the idea of single t-case so I can carry spare drivelines and not need to worry about paying for another set of custom drivelines. I can get spare drivelines off craigslist for $40 all day long

installing an intercooler IS smog legal in the state of california. Although most smog techs don't realize it and think it falls under the "intake modification" rule. Although it does not. The mod is WELL worth it. You will remove most your hesitation problems and pinging under boost. Even without a hood scoop, i noticed a drastic improvement in acceleration after i installed an intercooler. DO IT!

I usually leave the steering knuckle attached to the car while doing this job. A vice is not needed (unless you are replacing bearings as well). Which brings me to my 2nd point. If the old axle is wedged in there pretty good, its possible to drive the inner bearing out of the hub when you extract the axle. IF this happens, you are pretty much forced to replace the bearings. When installing the axle, its easiest to do it with the knuckle installed on the struts.

you should only need to jar the axle loose. Do not worry about ruining the threads on the axle, its an old axle and you should be returning it as a core anyhow. When installing the new axle, just slide it through the hub & bearings and you should get enough through to expose the new threads. Then you can put your rotor on, the cone washer & the 36mm castle nut... then tighten the nut and it will pull the axle through all the way. Once you do this, remove the nut & rotor... install your brake backing plate, caliper brackets and all that good stuff... and complete the job. You only need the hammer to remove the old axle. Not to install the new one.

Ken if you are on a budget you may want to consider re-gearing your transfercase instead of adding a 2nd. Right now you can get 4.7:1 T-Case gears for $300, but if you do the 2nd case you need the adapter, 2nd case & custom front & rear drivelines... and you should replace your t-case mount as well. When I added it all up, it was nearing $800 for the dual cases. I run the 4.7:1 gears in my single case and I love it. Its obviously a huge upgrade, and almost as low as the dual cases. Im curious to know more about the isuzu rear axle. Is it as wide as the 86+ toyota axles or is it narrow like the older toy's?