GreaseMonkey03

Im an idiot all the time. Don't feel bad. Lol

Outback struts would be your best bet. You can swap strut tops if they are different but the brake lines attach differently. You can work with what you have though.

Does the vibration change at all while in drive? If so, does it correlate with anything else happening? Do the headlights or dash lights flicker at all if the vibration changes? Is there a noise associated with the vibration? What is your idle speed or does the idle speed change or bounce? Does the vibration change or fluctuate while pressing or releasing the brake pedal?

How are the motor mounts? Is there a noise associated with it or just vibration? Does it do anything different while turning, braking, etc.

Subarus are among the easiest cars for people to work on themselves. If you can't or won't do everything yourself, and I do mean everything, or can't dish out the bucks to have someone else do it, steer clear. older subarus are a labor of love, but a labor still.

Shifter won't budge though. Maybe linkage is binding?

Does the clutch have pressure? What happens if you try to double clutch and move the shifter with the car off?

I have to ask since you're new with autos, are you checking the fluid level with the engine running and checking the correct dipstick? I've had customers check the front diff instead or check with the car off. Out of curiosity is there any correlation with anything else happening, like the ac clutch kicking in?

The trans mount was replaced or still broken? Check rear diff mounts? Possible that the missing motor mount bolt was absorbing some of the vibration and feels worse now that it's mounted up firmly. Stabilizer bushings, bearing and cv boots won't cause a shimmy although stanalizer bushings could cause some clunking noises. I'd start with the tranny mount and check the rear diff and go from there. Stanalizer bushings are cheap and worth throwing in if they are bad but can be a nightmare if the bolts are rusted. Were you able to get a firm hand on the driveshaft and rotate it left and right to check the joint or just visual inspection?

The driver window should still go down. Was the fuse checked yet? Check for power at the switch yet?

Are you referring to the marks on the belt? They're not needed. Make sure all of the slack on the belt is below the cam gears by the tensioner. You can lightly clamp the belt to each cam gear if needed to prevent any slipping. After everything is back in place and the tensioner is released, turn the motor over manually a few times to make sure all the marks are still lined up.

You're gonna have to pull the switch out to make sure it's getting power and also check the fuses. I'm assuming that you checked to make sure the window lock button is disengaged and that you tried the other windows with their own switches already?

was the whole door replaced with trim and window lock switch? Or does the car still have the original switch?

10% of the time is interesting. This is a push button starter? Anyone know off the top of their head what the manual override is for these? If the module stops cranking due to slow crank maybe you can override and see if it starts fine right after. 2013 it could just be a battery going bad, which you can have tested. Or we have had subarus go dead apparently just from leaving the key in the ignition or the headlights not going off when the car is off. I wouldn't eliminate the possibility that something might be getting left on once in a while if it's only 10% of the time. I would check the battery first though. Place to start anyway.

I'm a bit slow so I'm confused. What's stuck and what's broken? The sprocket or the pulley?