lmdew

The installer can put them anywhere! Find the auto lock box, black tied up under the dash somewhere. Off of it will be small brown wires, follow them to the small button, 1/8 dia or so. Its the switch.

I've done 8 or so of these and yes it should be an easy swap. What was the condition of the engine you put in? Do you know it was a good engine? Double check the hoses, the large dia 1" hose from the IAC to the MAF will cause it not to idle. Are all the plugs getting spark? Does the idle change when you pull individual fuel injector plugs? Is the battery and alternator in good condition? If all checks good and you still have the problem, double check the timing belt.

Check the engine mounts and transmission mounts. You need to get someone to help you out so one of you can be under the hood to try to pinpoint the noise while the other is in the car with it in drive, brakes and E-brake on. Be safe when you do this!

Put it on jack stands and put it in reverse and see if it still does it. The diff may be locking up when you try to move the car backwards. Any other problems in forward? Check the front diff gear lube! Check the Trans fluid!

Yes you need the correct brake switch and clutch switch if you wire it up that way, if you have a 5sp trans.

If you want to put an engine in let me know. I'm in Colorado Springs and could do it for you or help. If you still want to sell it, I'd buy it. Larry Lmdew@hotmail.com

Cascade Subaru 4615 Fountain Ave Cascade, CO 80809-1019 (719) 684-9060 Great shop, I do my own work but I've sent many folks Tom's way.

Passenger side will slip in first. Start the bolts but do not tighten them. Install the Drivers side fan, start all the bolts and tighten them up. Plug in the fans and install the overflow bottle.

4 bolts hold the compressor. The bottom two bolts go through a bracket which has another 14mm bolt about 2" back towards the valve cover.

It will mate to the block, but it's a totally different trans as far as the electrics go. Better to stay in the 90-93 range or do the 5 sp swap.

No sealant on the pump cover, Gray RTV on the oil pump housing to engine block. I let it set 24 hours to ensure its cured.

Make sure you are timing the crank with the mark on the back tooth and not the arrow on the front of the crank gear! Read and Learn, no stupid questions.

Use the search on the USMB and you will find tons of info. Yes the auto to manual is a good change and not to hard. Make sure the Rear Diff is changed as well so the gear ratios match. If you can find a complete car non running and then pull the trans and all the other stuff you will need that is best.

I was told NAPA on 8th street in CO Springs does the head work for Subaru in town.

Pull the plugs back out, are they still firing (color of the plugs will tell you what is going on)? Put the recommended plugs in (see above) It could be that the timing has jumped.

Some of the inner boots have a rubber sleeve that is inside the boot. If that came out or you have two, one in the boot and one on the rack, it would be a pain. Those inside boots can be tough.

On the starter. Follow the + battery cable back. Check the Battery voltage, terminal to terminal and note it. Move the positive lead to the starter end of the terminal and check the voltage and record. Now have someone try to start the car, the voltage should not drop but .5 volts or so if the system/wiring is good. If it checks good there, go to the output side of the starter solinoid to the starter motor and do the same. If you are not comfortable checking the system, most autoparts places can check it for you or you can remove your starter and take it to a starter rebuild place and have them check it.

Most likely the starter contacts. Check the voltage drop at the starter and then down stream at the starter motor. Corrosion or pitted contacts in the starter solinoid.

There is a little bypass hose off the water pump as well. Take a good look up at the pump and you can see the leak.

Check the brake and clutch switches. I've had a few that the bumper on the bracket comes out and then the switch goes right through the hole. The cruise unit on the Impreza is right below the AC Dryer. If you have 2 cables going to the throttle body, its there.

In the rust belt if you have done that much work, I'd replace both.

Did you change the clearance? As they sit they will bleed down and it take a while for them to pump back up. Give it time, good 5-30 oil will help.

Axle to stub shaft is held together by a roll pin, just drive it out. The stub shaft to trans is held in with a circle clip, just make sure its there and in good condition and then pop it back in. Yes the axles are the same.

It would help with the YR and Model. The Legacy pumps are under an oval cover in the trunk or under the rear seat. The older DL... are under the body back by the tank. If you pull the fill cap and have someone turn on the key the pump will run until it builds pressure. The only sure way to check the output of the pump is to install a pressure gauge and check the flow rate. Is the CEL on?

Brake, clutch switches. You are putting a Legacy unit into a Impreza/Forster. I believe the Impreza or Forster units are different. I know my 98 OBS mouts the Cruise unit on the passenger frame rail in the engine compartment.