lmdew

Stick with a Subaru MAF. Aftermarkets are junk.

The Outback rear trailing arm bracket that bolts to the body is an 1" longer to keep the rear wheel centered. Careful with the bolts they are easy to cross thread. If the bolts are rusty, I've had them break the welded nuts loose inside the body.

Front top hats are the same. The rears will most likely need to be swapped over. You need a thick washer under the nut on top of the strut to take up the extra space!

I love the old style. Just compress the plunger slowly and pin it. Once you are happy with the timing, Slide it inboard, torque the bolts and pull the pin!

Go back with a list of parts costs. Show her what it will take to make it a good subaru again. $800 might be OK for AK. $500 would be better. List of parts and $500 in cash and you might drive it away.

If you have an amp meter, check the draw at the pump. When the pumps are going out they sometimes run for a bit and then go out. The amps will go up.

I pull used pumps from the yard all the time. Subaru pumps do fail, but are pretty darn good. Can you hear it run when the key is first turned on? When it will not start put a cap of fuel in the throttle body and see if it starts and runs for a few seconds. If so it's most likely the pump or relay. Lots of fellows recommend checking the fuel pressure, but you need to Y into the fuel line and have a good gauge.

Could but that's high for that engine with all those missing parts, but may be a great deal in AK. Lot's of work and you will need a work around for the EGR as you can not drill the block in that one or you drill into the coolant jacket. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong. www.car-part.com and check for a 95 2.2

Make sure you don't cross thread the bolts that go into the body. It's supper easy to do and not easy to fix! Run them in and out by hand a few times with some PB Blaster or something to lube the internal nut welded to the body and then put the arm on! If it starts to cross thread you will feel it. STOP and fix it.

95-98 2.2 is pretty much plug and play if you have the same EGR configuration. Y-pipe on the 96 and up is single port but you can buy a y-pipe and bolt it up. They came with the DOHC 2.5 which has HG issues. www.car-part.com is a good place to search.

Minor differences in the engines. Great parts car or fix it and drive it for years.

I had changed the radiator in my 06 Forester and then the pump started making noise. Bubbles in the fluid. Some quality hose clamps on the hose at both ends solved the problem. Love those German rolled edge hose clamps. I use to pick them up in the UPAP yards as I went by BMW and others.

It's just a matching air fitting for the bleeder and a matching pipe thread fitting on the inside.

If you have the 2 part rear drive shaft, yes you could remove the rear half and drive in FWD. The drive shaft FWD yoke into the trans keeps the fluid in, so it has to stay. If you can get a lift for the repair it's much easier. The most time is spent cleaning the gasket surfaces. The wire is very short so when you pull the tail shaft back, take it easy. I'd leave a bolt or two in with a 1/2" of space to keep it close when you break it free. Watch the Thrust Washer Take note of how the spring is located on the parking lock link. Larry

It's all in the data. Data driven maintenance is best.

No need to drop the pan for a filter. If you have the external filter change it. Dextron III is fine. I drain, Fill, pull the upper trans radiator cooling line. Put 2 tubes into a gallon jug and start the car. The trans will pump out all the old dirty fluid. When you have about 3/4 of a gallon, shut off the car. Fill it back up and start it again with an empty jug. another 3/4. Repeat until the fluid is nice and red/clean. About 4 gallons. Put the trans cooler line back on and properly service the fluid.

You want a Subaru Thermostat! Larry

Pull the cover around the latch hook on the body. There are 2 12mm bolts that hold it. Mark it's present location, loosen the bolts and give it a good tap. it will move back about an 1/8". That should do it. It's worked for me more than once. Larry

Good used KYB set from a self serve yard about $40 each. 2" about. You only need the trailing arm bracket that bolts to the body. It's the part that is longer. Take it easy on the bolts and use PB blaster or some other lube. The nuts are welded to the frame and I've had them break loose. They are also easy to cross thread so make sure they properly thread in.

Good used 2.2 and do the T-Belt and seals and drop it in.

Fronts are easy with the camber adjustment. It will usually bring it in. Rears, i use a smaller dia bolt on the top to allow the camber adjustment. They do sell camber bolts. I've used the lower hub to trailing arm bolts on the top and if you tilt the wheel all the way in you will be close. Outbacks do have a longer steering wheel to rack link and about 1" lift blocks between the cross members and the body. On the Impreza OBS I've lifted you also need the rear trailing arm to body bracket to center the rear wheel in the wheel well.

You can always remove the negative battery terminal to prevent battery drain when not running.

You may have a small leak in the heater core that allows air to be pulled back into the system instead of the coolant. Larry

Use a Subaru thermostat? If you used an aftermarket change it. Why did you change the radiator and thermostat. Air bubbles and black oil slime in the overflow tank? HG.

Have to remove the clip off the pin, push the plastic tabs in on the end of the pin, then remove the metal pin going through square bracket attached to the pedal.