lmdew

Most of the time most wear is in the damper up front. If you slide a couple of straight slot screwdrivers behind the crank gear (avoid the trigger teeth) you will most likely be able to slide it off. Replace the key, replace the worn damper and torque to 125 ft lbs. If it won't come off, you may get by with just torque.

About 5" across. The bracket mount points are much less. I found a pair on Ebay a few years ago that I mounted with the stock bracket. They worked pretty well.

Aftermarket Security System?

Have your anti freeze checked to make sure it will handle the cold temps.

Put a little fuel in the Intake through the throttle. If it starts and runs for a short time, then you know it's fuel related. Is the CEL on? If so what's the code/s? Good Luck

3M Headlight kit works pretty well, or have the professionally restored. HID kits can be installed. The 96 Outbacks have a fog light kit that mounts in the lower bumper.

Most likely the motor. I'd check for voltage at the motor or grab a used one and plug it in. Could be the switch arm or wiring.

Just slides on. I had one that was trashed and had to be beat off. I'd put a come along back to the rear suspension and pull it off. Tap the joint as needed. I bet they put JB Weld or something on the shaft to keep it from falling off.

Yep, Moto Guzzi, A&P, USNR, Subaru's, life is good. Hit the yard and pull one. Just clip the brake lines. Make sure you don't push the brake all the way down when you bleed it.

Search you tube for Subaru Head Gaskets, some pretty good info if you need to go there.

As grossgary has said in another thread, drive the car and then use a laser temp gun to check the hub temp. If you find a high on, there is your problem. Jacking and running will not tell you much as there is no load on the bearing. The only way to check a bearing by hand is to pull the brakes, the axle and then spin the hub, look feel and listen. Larry

That's a job! Even tough the Dash connectors are the same, the dashes are different. if you have the OBS dash, I'd plug it in and see if your faults go away.

Many times when people bleed the brakes, they damage the master cylinder by allowing the pistons to go into areas that they have not gone for years. It wipes out the seals in the MC. I always put a 2x4 under the brake pedal to prevent this. If you have a good air-free system the MC is likely.

On older Subaru's high idle RPM when cold is normal. Gas mileage always goes down in Winter, all that sitting letting the car warm up.

It's best to put the spare on the rear and the fuse in. That way the two different size tires are not fighting the driveline.

Is the CEL on? If so get the codes read. You say the idle problem only happens in Neutral, if that is the case you may have a bad Neutral SW on the trans. My OBS had 325K on it. I love it.

You can do it in the car, but if you have other maintenance that needs to be done, Clutch or Rear Breather plate it's easier to pull the engine. Only another hour or so and much easier to clean the block.

Here you go: http://boulder.craigslist.org/cto/4794854107.html

You don't have enough driving for them to be complete yet.

Need to pull them and replace the busted clips. Wait until it's warm if you can, the panel will come off much easier with fewer busted clips.

You might get lucky with no bent valves. Most likely a frozen up geared idler pulley. Only way to tell is to pull the timing covers. You will need to pull all 3 to get a full picture, but pulling just the outside 2 covers will give you a hint of what happened. You can fix the problem, hang a new timing belt and turn it over by hand to make sure its not significant damage. If it checks good, start it up and listen to it. You can do a compression check and or check the exhaust for signs of bent valves or worst.

There is a special tool to lock them. Without that, the best way is to run an old chunk of tbelt around the cam and crank pulleys and clamp them together in the middle with a vise grips. Works for torquing the bolt as well. Was your water pump leaking? They don't fail often. If it was an overheat problem, read up on Head Gasket failures.

I think the length is different. If you have one, it's easy to check, just jack up the rear get it on jack stands and then try the drive shaft you have. Slide it into the trans, see if the mid bearing bolts up. Bolt it to the rear dif. It will either work or not. If not, you will see what you need. Yes torque bind is likely!

Pretty easy swap, just take the 95 2.2 intake manifold, complete with the harness and bolt it onto the 91. The only issue may be the EGR if the 95 has one. There's a work around for the EGR is you need it.

A little new for most of us on the USMB. I consider a 99 a new Subaru and if I go into the 2000-2008 it's almost coming off the Dealers floor. You might consider a good 2000-2004 for under $5000 you can find a great used Subaru.