lmdew

Take a look. Did they say leaking coolant or oil? Small oil leaks will stay small for lots of miles.

Don't pull the pan to change the internal screen/filter. If you have an external spin on filter, you may change it.

Check the TPS readout if it only happens at specific throttle settings.

Auto or Manual Trans? If its an auto, you should have put the FWD fuse in when you put on the spare on the rear. I suspect you have taken out one of the CV joints on the half shaft.

You will find 4 or 5 bulbs in the unit. You have to carefully pull off the rear circuit board. The bulb holders are 1/4 turn and come out easy. You can work the green plastic cover off the old bulb and reuse it. To make the mini bulbs the same length, grab a ball point pen and pull the ink tube out. Cut the empty upper end to the length you need and feed the mini bulb wires through and into the old socket. Trim the excess wire.

Bump

One is the neutral Sw the other the Rev Sw. They do go up to the top of the trans, so yes you can check them Open = OL, Closed 0.0 Ohms easy.

Manual Trans has a Switch on the upper drivers side of the trans. I believe the Auto comes from the selector on the passenger side of the trans.

It does not matter as the pump comes out the top. Unless it was full to the max you're ok.

no on he neutral SW.

Vent lines

Yes and Yes Not to hard, you want to make sure the TC remains fully seated. Make sure the front & rear diffs are the same ratio. The UPAP option is worth it, if you can find one from a car that was hit pretty hard, side or rear, that way you can be pretty sure it was going down the road.

The two fuses close to the links should remove all power down stream. I'd pull the fuse box and remove the cover on the bottom to see if you have a short.

If you have an amp meter, you can hook it up and then pull the radio fuse. If the AMPS drop, there is a solution. There are quick disconnects for batteries as well. I have a Dash unit from a 2005 if you want it, $60 shipped.

I'd love to help but the school bus turning left into my Moto Guzzi back in July has put me on the sidelines. No Subaru MX for at least a few more months. PM sent, Thanks MilesFox.

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/111946-easy-wheel-bearing-diagnosis.html?utm_medium=email&utm_source=137#post1175410 Thanks grossgary

External HG leaks, oil or coolant. If it has not been done I'd change the fluids and add the Subaru Coolant Conditioner to the antifreeze. You could try www.car-part.com for the parts you're looking for.

A fiend has a 96 Legacy Auto I sold to him years ago. The Auto Trans just started acting up, vibration during acceleration and the Parking pawl is no longer holding. 200K miles or so. So he is looking for a good Subaru Mechanic in Wisconsin who will not take him to the cleaners. I guess the rear clutch extension shaft could have sheared off or the parking pawl broke. Used Trans may be the way to go. Lmdew2@gmail.com Thanks, Larry

Get a good used Subaru, and save thousands.

If you put some fuel in the intake and it started, it can't be a T-belt. You can clamp off the return fuel line, or pull it and check the pressure downstream of the injectors.

There should be a c-clip on the cable that goes against the clip down on the bottom support. Passenger side. up under the dash. Its about 3" form the linkage.

Put a couple of jumper wires on the fuel pump plug so you can watch voltage as it runs. Running for a few seconds when the key is on and then turning off is normal. You may also want to tee in a pressure gauge in the engine fuel line to watch the pressure. I've seen many pumps work on the start cycle but then fail to run all the time.

Any recent maintenance in the area? Oil pressure sw up top will leak down into the TB cover. PS pump can do the same.

I'd clear the codes and see what comes back.

Tirerack is good and you can use their price to make sure the Local shop is giving you a reasonable deal.