Qman

Don't sweat it Sweet. That's why I started by saying I was going to be gentle. You do indeed have to learn somewhere. Why not from a bunch of computer nerds that you probably won't ever meet more than 5% of. @ Brian... 4cyl V-8 That will have to become a classic.

The purpose behind the center locking diff is to make the power split 50/50. When in the unlocked position I believe it is like a 70/30 split front to rear.

Good job Skipper!! There is a small odometer behind the speedo that controls the light. After 60,000 miles it trips the switch, if you will. When I installed the '82 dash I was able to check it out.

Ummmm, I'll be gentle.... your '82 doesn't have belts. It's gear driven.

To answer your question, yes, it was in service on his ranch in Corodva(I think). It recently sold on EBay. And yes, a board member(Shackk) did purchase it and it will be donated to the Ronald Reagan museum. Some other interesting info. The original bill of sale was included which had his signature. And some other stuff was included.

The tire size is mandated by transmission. 2wd GL's have 175/70R13. 2wd DL's have 155/70R13. 4WD GL's have 185/70R13. 4WD DL's have 175/70R13. Not all GL10's have rear headrests. (this is an additional option) Things like roof racks and rear air deflectors on wagons are also additional options. The following info is taken directly from the '84 and '86 sales brochures. '84; These are beyond the standard GL options AM/FM ETR 6 speaker stereo, PS PW(only available as PW Pmirror option pkg) Cruise control, A/C, Digi dash Sunroof-pop up style. Turbo coupes came with all the GL10 options and the Turbo wagons came in GL or GL10. '86 The power moon roof was only available in the turbo. GL10's were turbo's except in the 4dr sedan which had the option of non-turbo. Digi dash only came with the turbo's. Trip computers. Power door locks.(Were standard but available on other models.) Folddown rear seat. Height adjustment on drivers seat only. Electronic height control for suspension. That's about it.

Boz, I have an '84 GL10 coupe. It's 2wd with auto. It didn't cover the wheels, sunroof, cargo rack, black out or paint treatment. List price in 1984 was just over $12,000. Yes, it is an option designation. Just like DL/GL. Most GL10's have all power accy's, nicer interior and power moonroofs, in '84 they came with non-power sunroofs as an additional option. In the EA82 models most/all Turbo models had all the GL10 options.

The manifold will work just fine but the electrical probably won't match up with what you have(98% sure on this one). You may have to splice into that one. Be further ahead to swap in the Weber if you can.

Most LSD's will be 3.70 ratio. You Brat is a 3.90 ratio. You will need to swap ring gears. There is a write up in the Ultimate Subaru Repair manual that tells step by step directions how to do it.

They will fit. You will probably have to do some fender trimming and well adjustments. That is the radial version of the old TSL biased ply(Super Swamper series) The radial version should be alot nicer in the morning. That tread pattern is well tested and proven. Good mud tire but not as good on the rocks. Still a good tire though.

I doubt it. It's probably that weak-assed Pontiac.

I don't know about you other guys but I'm with Sweet. My heater's will dry your eyes out.

Yep, 27/9.50R15 That's about the baddest tire you will find in that size. Rumor has it that they are considering phasing these out as well. I guess we need more people to buy them to show Interco that they are popular enough to keep around. I don't get rubbing in normal everyday driving. I cranked the suspension up prior to the last run at Evans Creek. I had been running at half mast prior to that. Rubbing occurs when I get into off camber situations. Mind you I am not running a sway bar and I get quite a bit more movement than the average Sube will see.

My bad Brian, I thought I read that you no longer had admin privledges. Can you fix mine? I have the user and password and I can't get in. Boz, I have 27" Swampers. I have a slightly modified 4/3" Ozified lift. Yes my suspension is cranked and I still get a little rubbing on extreme articulation. I don't think the Thornbirds come in a small enough size to run them on anything less than a 6 or 8" lifted Sube. The hubs aren't the same. The rears have a smaller hub in the back where it matches up to the bearings. BTW, $80.00 for Alloys isn't a bad price at all.

IMO they should sell you the whole car for that price. A friend of mine has one for sale. He wants $200.00 For the whole car. It has around 129K. Who's your mechanic. I have had nothing but good luck with the EA81T's. Yes they are finicky but they run out well.

Good for you. Are they like the ones I have? If so, that isn't a bad price. Did you get 4 or 5 of them? BTW, contact Shawn or Mick and they can set you up on this sites picture gallery with your own acct and space. No cost.

Sounds more like a temp sensor to me. It thinks it is already hot. That might explain why it runs so well after it's warmed up. Have you ran a code check yet? That would be the first place to start.

Coming along nicely. What are your plans for the completed project?

Jared, try changing out that hub as well. There has to be a reason that they aren't holding. Is the bolt that goes through the knuckle/hub threaded all the way? If not that could be the problem. Sounds like fun right up to that point. Ken

Anyone have the answer for me?

When I surf for H&R springs I find that they do not offer for wagons. Do sedans work for the wagon or is it a totally different set up?

Cool, see Caleb, I told you that you'd do OK down there if you gave it a shot.

Very nice Clint! The question you posed about the gold valve assy is part of the ASV(air suction valve). It works with the EGR system. It sounds like you have a hole developing in the metal piping at the end of the rubber hose coming off of the valve towards the engine. Ken

OK, I have been looking around and haven't found what I'm after. Here's what I want to do. I want to lower my '92 Legacy Turbo wagon approx 1 1/2" in the front and 1 1/8-1 1/4" in the rear. I am also looking at adding larger diameter bars and running 205/50R15 tires. I want a firm suspension that will still provide a comfortable ride. Basically, I want the cornering to improve. So the question is where do I find these parts and what is recommended? Strut tops? Springs/struts? Swaybars? The tires and wheels are already covered. Thanks, Ken

First, safety is the biggest issue here not convenience. Rubber lines are for flex areas not to replace hard lines. Second, flaring is a must on brake lines to maintain a tight air free seal. This is definitely not the place to cut corners. Your life and the lives of everyone you will come into contact with on and off the road depend on it. Ideally, you want hard lines through the body and along the rear trailing arms. Anywhere there is a pivot point you use rubber brake lines. Not just any rubber line will work either. It needs to be rated for brake fluid and pressure.