Qman

There are a few different ignitions. Which car and model do you have?

Your car made this sound due to "air" in the system. Your air leak appeared when you had headgasket problems. Air in the system could be caused by a number of reasons. Leaky hose or waterpump. Even a bad radiator cap or radiator.

Yes sir, saw it in person on Saturday. Looks very good.

:clap: Sounds like you're getting a little bit of a slow start on the parent thing. It's all good though. They'll help to keep you young.

Yep, caused by air in the system. Craig gave good advice. Check the coolant level.

Very cool. Did you guys take a group photo with cars and people? I'd love to see one of those with names as well.

What I am about to say will upset alot of folks but it won't be the first or last time for that matter. An '85 sedan with no motor or engine wiring really is good for one purpose only. PARTS!!! If you want those goodies for your wagon weigh what the cost will be for those parts and then consider what you paid for the sedan. If you are ahead then do the scavenge. I have stripped much nicer ones than that one and a number of members are running the parts. If someone wants to step forward and pay you what it will cost for all the parts you want to put on your wagon then that should be considered. But I seriously doubt that will happen. Considering that the parts you mention will cost around a $1000.00 from just about any wrecker in Oregon. Don't feel bad about making your car better for you. Think of it this way. How many people have used XT6 suspension on there GL's to make them better. Something has to die to become an organ donor. Sounds to me like yours qualifies. Flame suit is on and functioning. Let me have it.

No problem.

The LSD is just that. It is a clutch pack instead of open side gears that apply traction to both wheels at once. The advantage is that when you loose traction to one tire it will allow some traction to be retained. However, the LSD is/isn't all it's cracked up to be. I have run one for about 3+ years and it's nice but doesn't always give you the traction needed. I installed a welded rear diff prior to the Rubicon trip and it is still in there. Not actually, the only factory built Subaru with a center LSD(and front for that matter) is the '04 STi. I too will agree that driving on DRY pavement is not only a bad idea but will indeed bind and eventually break something. Newer generation Subaru's with the AWD system will have viscous couplers that allow this. Old school Subes do not have the viscous coupler to reduce or eliminate low RPM binding. Rob, you are lazy!! :-p

With the welding help that you were just offered by Scott you can put just about any seat you want in there. I have XT6 seats in my Brat but they don't tilt back far enough for my liking. The rear wall get's in the way(I'm 6'4") but I manage.

Josh, I will be leaving Prairie Ridge around 8:00am heading to Woodenville and Samammish. Then to Eric's by noon. You can tag along or follow(might be best) and meet Ed(Edrach) and Corky(Dr RX) if you'd like. Hey Caleb, if you can be on time you can go with me also :moon: Ken

Yeah, I'll be by. I have to go to Ed's though. The package I'm picking up is too big for Ed to bring over. I'll shoot for noon as well, maybe earlier.

Cool!

True RX's had hubcaps not alloys. They were white and not real attractive IMO.

1) Yes, the hydraulic motor's have bigger valves. 2) I have heard many bad things about boring the cylinders on a Subaru engine. I do not know if pinning would help or not. I also think it's a heat dissipation thing as well. 3) I used used pistons in mine. Had them mic'd and checked for roundness. Then just used stock rings and bearings. CCR rebuilds all retain stock specs. They get alot of cores and measure everyone to find the good ones that are still within spec.

If you have PS you could run into conflicts with it and the mounting. I believe most have reversed the carb to get by this. I have not installed one onto an EA82 though. Just going by what others have stated.

Very good point Eric. I am seeing an extremely slack accelerator cable in James' future. lol

I know of one Brat with an aero kit on it. It looks Ok but not perfect. The Brat is indeed narrower and it requires splicing of the front and rear pieces to fit. The side skirts should be heated a little to stretch them out to fit better. They are not quite long enough.

The running gear has been successfully installed in an EA82. It will not mate to the trans if that is what you have in mind.

The 15" space saver spares will fit. I wouldn't recommend driving it with 4 of them on it though. As the Pug is alot heavier. Seen them for transport purposes only.

It was a kick. Keep me updated on what is happening. Maybe just a little longer the next time though. Seemed like we had just started when it was over. I know we all had stuff to do but...

I have also heard that removal and installation with the battery hooked up can cause some problems. Are you disconnecting your battery Brian?

The difference in the pistons is barely visible to the naked eye. .040 is standard for the aviation side of the house. The problem you will run into is that the intake will no longer match correctly. It brings the intake ports closer together. I milled my heads .020/ea without ill effects and the intake still matched up. The power gains are quite noticable. It is true that you will need to decide with pure torque or HP. You can go to the high end with either one. If you are running high r's then go with the HP grind. The torque will be there in that rpm range. The valves won't interfere as they are closed when the piston gets that high. BTW, I am running two different high performance motors. Both are running 1600 pistons and big cams. One is built for HP and one is built for torque. Do not bore the cylinders. They have a bad tendancy to spin the sleeves during operation.

Hmmm, I agree and disagree. I have had this happen in the past. What really sucks is when they do it after you have it all together and they start to pull on the final torque. Aluminum fatigues over time. Hot and cold over time stretches the threads. You should be OK with the gaskets as long as final torque was not met. The helicoil is a 12mm but I can't remember the thread pitch. Take a bolt with you and they should be able to match it. Good luck.

The spring is for the throw out bearing. It keeps it from rattling. The spring has absolutely no purpose for adjustment of the clutch. As far as the adjustment problem. Did the replacement clutch cable (or your old one for that matter) have a ball type washer assy on it? Most of them do and it allows for more adjustment. Did you grease the shaft before installing the throw out bearing? I don't remember if you used new parts or remanned. If remaned it could be a weak pressure plate or even a bad surface or resurface. What I mean is that it could be out of tolerance. When turning the flywheel for vehicles newer than 1984 you have to be careful for the machine shop turning it for ea81 and ea82's. They both have different specs on flywheel depth.