Qman

This is a scam. DO NOT EVEN REPLY TO THE EMAIL! Bad mojo will result from this. It has been found that the cashiers check are usually forged and you will be out your car and whatever. A guy on the news just fell for this type of scam.

The rear discs are smaller and you will not have a problem.

A DOJ, a sticking caliper combined with warped rotor, are two of the biggest culprits.

Rick, try to follow this but it's kind of complicated. I hope I can explain it clearly. At the air suction valve connects to the plastic bell. Take that apart and stick a quarter in there. Just to test it start it up and see if it backfires. This trick was told to me by someone who has done it a number of times. It may or may not work. But, it's worth a shot. If it solves the backfire then I'd just disconnect that system. Ken

Andy, any shop can spin the pinion/coupler off and install a new seal for you. Shouldn't take long either.

Jamie, I can really appreciate your position. For the last couple of years we have been trying to recover from WCSS4. It was really unfortunate about how things went down. I think that is the perfect example of how things/people/groups have grown up and apart. PNWSEC(The Club) was first established as/by old school groups. It grew in size and stature. Came up with an event that is second to none. Now comes the problem. We have several different groups that want to "belong" to this group. Unfortunately, the focals from each group do not neccessarily have the time to contribute to one club let alone two or three clubs. The diversity is the biggest and worst attribute of this group. A round table of members from every group will have to come together at some point. Be it at this time or another. Maybe a round robin type deal for hosting an annual show by the clubs of the NW. This should also include Oregon and other states. As far as what to do with this club in my opinion. No one with Subaru knowledge(history, lineage and such) has stepped forward to assist or even take over. I would like to see the club live on but I do not know if it is feasible at this time. As far as the show's future. I have been working on a few things and may have some options. This may have beneficial effects on our future. Without one group taking the heat for the show it could in the future be better. Let's see what the rest have to say and see if there is any future.

Oh, I 've done that(snapped a stub) and even smoked the clutch. But they are forgiving. The new motor is really torquey(?) and does quite well. I do have to work harder sometimes but I still make it and makes for a lot of satisfaction. I have experienced the crawl geared thing and to be truthful. I was bored to death. Give me a Brat or Hatch with a set of Swampers and I'll make it and be very happy.

Why do I need better gearing? I made it everywhere they did(with less damage BTW). I have the same clutch in it that went in when I did the motor. I like the challange of being stock geared. Anyone can climb a rock with modified crawler gears. Do some thing like that with the stock gears and then you'll have done something.

Mick, any idea what models are there?

Just for terminology purposes. You have a VLSD not a LSD. Both do similar things but work differently at the same time.

Tires will also contribute to that problem. If you tires are not the same diameter on all four corners that too can cause binding. Best to keep the same brand on all four corners along with the same condition. Whch means using tires with less tread than the others.

Cool stuff. I wish I could make it down for that. My Brat loves that kind of terrain.

No. It is a full fledged body lift as the suspension components do not go any where. The body is raised off of them. A suspension lift requires different springs (plus blocks in some instances) The body lift does allow for larger tires in all cases. Which is where the extra clearance comes from.

Nice Jeremy, Here's one from here.

We didn't get much last year. Seemed everyone else was getting it.

And wasn't Shawn in Illinios then?

YEP, I'M YELLING ABOUT IT! We get our first snow of the year in western Washington on November 1st. And it's still snowing. Only a couple of inches so far but it's still snowing.

And since price is regional. You should find prices for cars that are near your in condition and gadgets. Then show them the prices(ads and dealer estimates). This will show what it will cost to replace it. Show every receipt you ever received and kept for the car. Then be prepared to meet in the middle somewhere.

Dante, I will talk to you on Saturday, I will come up and meet you in person and hang out with you, John and Eric for a while. What time are you guys planning on getting together?

Under the rear window shelf in the trunk.

Good explanation Scott. I can't recall how many times I have tried to get people to understand that one either.

Not aware of a Subaru only shop in Auburn. Auburn foreign car works on all foreign cars and they do good work but their specialty is Volkswagon. I have had dealings with Smart Service. I know the guys at Superior. I also know the guys at Brians Subaru repair in Burien. Brians is closest to you and easy to find. They are right across the street from Glen Grant Chev in Burien. All three are in the phone book. I do recommend Brians to everyone. They are great with the EA series cars. Smart has a good reputation for the EJ's. I know most of the guys at Auburn Subaru and of course, Gary. They do pretty good work from what I have heard. I don't have personal experience with them but they're right down the hill from you.

Here's a pic of my set up. Pic I used an RV isolator. It's wired to switch on when the key is in the ignition mode. I have a standard wet cell starting battery and my winch and welder run off the dry cell. I got it at Les Schwab. It's the RV/marine.

Hey Dave, that's great.

I use an old Suby wheel to set the hub in when I knock out the bearings.