Qman

:lol:

I don't know about actual thickness. You could always stop at a parts store and look at a new one. Give you a reference to check by. Definitely get the cable routed right. It will last longer.

Could be the routing. I would assume the John has it routed right after the lift. Generally it goes under the steering column. Most people run it over the top and that is what causes the problem. It may be the cable stretching and just out of adjustment. If it still has the 2wd clutch it is 7 7/8". Way too small for your application. Find a large flywheel(8 7/8") and clutch from the junk yard. The pull a parts up here are a good source. I don't think I have any left. John may though.

He has 4WD. The problem is in the rear end. The 4WD coupled by the welded/LSD rear causes the understeer. It feels like it is being pushed through the corner. Alot of left brake and flutter on the go pedal seem to help.

That could be fun. Maybe the start of the Washington RallyX circuit.

Scott, yes, both Brats are mine. The grey one is an '85. The silver one is an '86. 'freak, they are Sen dels. They were made in the late 70's and early '80's.

All parts are the same as the 4WD except for the hubs. SO, all you'd need extra would be the hubs.

I currently run an XT6 flywheel and clutch assembly in my Brat. I did this for two reasons. First, the higher horse power of my engine required a stronger clutch. And second, I didn't want to burn up a stock EA81 clutch on the first hill climb in California. Some specs. The XT6 flywheel stock is over 4lbs lighter than the EA81 flywheel. But not so light that you loose centrifical force of the rotating parts. You are right about using the clutch disc not working on a 4sp D/R. The diameter is the same but the pressure plate has more holding force. I wouldn't recommend the extra expense for a stock or Weberized motor. Keep in mind that the first motor this was behind was pushing an estimated 150HP. It now sits behind an estimated 120-130HP.

Very proper!! May just have to get you up here before the snow hits.

Well, ya' know Boz, It WAS just a matter of time before you got ONE right. Back to ya' buddy... Ha HA Ha ROFLMAO

Looks badass. But it is definitately sitting on another frame and if you look in the fender well it's a V-6. But it is an '82 Brat I think.

Thanks all. I guess being really tired doesn't help the memory Corky. DOH! It's in fair to better shape. Eric is right. The silver one was in much better shape than this one. For now. I have plans for it. Lot's of little dings and a couple rust spots. Interior is in good shape and the engine runs strong. And it would have gone for at least twice what I paid for it on the other coast. No doubt. I'm the fourth owner. Started life in Utah. then Oregon and now Washington. BTW Brian, that A bar/winch set up is for sale. $200.00 Comes with switch and the lights. It's a short style bar. I will post pics in the marketplace.

Thanks Patrick, I echo Eric's sentiments. Glad to know you're alright. I should be here all weekend. I await your call. Ken

Stop Boz or you'll wrench your elbow. 1/2 hour out and it still has to go in. The clock is ticking :cool:

Well, if I sell the Hatch it will be a street Brat. I will use it for Rally as well. If I sell the Legacy I will rally the Hatch. I haven't decided if I'm going to lift it or not. But I'm leaning... BTW, how did you figure that one Corky? I didn't even post on that one.

Here's the answer to all the guesses. '85... And BTW Corky, you are very quick for an old guy But it's Lucent grey.

It may be the drive gear. Which may or may not be servicable. Where in Oregon are you? There are a couple of independent service shops in Oregon that you could go to and trust!

Vacuum should increase with RPM's. That is what gives the proper advance to the distributor.

Adam, you said you took out the PVC valve, right? My guess would be that you are building pressure and either blowing it into the intake or pushing past the rings. Try reinstalling a PVC valve and see what happens.

As was I.

They do their job just fine. They protect the essentials well. I have bent and dented them but not damaged the things above them. My exhaust on the brat is just the same as your Turbo and it works well.

Cole, what exactly is wrong with your ignition? There might be ab easier way to fix your problem dependign on what the problem really is. BTW, if you do need to replace the entire switch, call Chris, he'll have it done in 30 minutes. That leaves alot of time for drinking beer and shooting the s&*(.

Yes... but you still have to part two cars for that. If they are that hard to find how will that work? The other thing people seem to miss is that a sedan will not fit his needs. People are not going to pay him what he needs to get all the parts for. And the sedan will effortlessly give all of them up for him.

No worries, I was just clarifying for the original poster.

If the price for the column isn't much more just get the whole column. If it has tilt it is a little tougher. You have to remove the wheel. Undo the springs(tough to get back on) then remove the screws with a 10mm wrench. Installation is in the reverse. But like I said the spings are tougher going on then coming off. You will also need to lower the column from the dash to get some working room.