Qman

There are quite a few. However, I don't believe any were 4WD.

You'll want a Legacy. Go test drive a couple at used car lots to decide which year fits best. My wife drove an '84 GL for years and refused to give it up until I brought a '93 Legacy wagon home and handed her the keys. She'll never go back!

FUEL FILTERS!! Replace both of them and the problem should go away. One is in the engine compartment and the other is under the Brat near the tank on the drivers side I believe.

I should also note that most US spec vehicles are prewired for the switch and actuator.

Some info regarding the '85's. They were the only year that the non-turbo MPFI was offered in anything but the XT. I have seen it in a GL10 2wd sedan w/ auto trans and a couple of cars in the JY. I believe Skip is correct about the wagon though. The 4wd s/b a carb. I would also agree with either the timing belts(possible tensioner causing the squeel) or a plugging cat. Fuel filters would/should do it all the time and would eventually allow the vehicle up to speed if driven on a flat surface. The filters will indeed cause similar issues but will start out as a bucking sensation when applying load. They will progressively get worse from that point on.

It was an option on most early EA82 cars. The later ones got it standard. There is a button the inserts into the dash also.

I would like to point out that your RX is a Fulltime 4WD and that it requires both front and rear tires to be the same diameter. If they are not you will eventually have drivetrain binding and will probably devoure a tranny.

I don't believe they were ever released in the states. I have not seen them here anyway. Might be a Sanbar van from Japan though.

Very true TIm, but there is an option. If you carry a load most of the time you can adjust the tension of the torsion bar to max. Or you can also reclock the torsion bar. The down side to this is the it will cause the rear end to be much higher when it is empty. I ran a clocked torsion bar for years in the Hatch and the Brat with out trimming the rear wheel wells. Try taking off the rear mud flaps to verify if they are rubbing on them and not the fender.

The switch could add to your problem. Find a good coil and test it. Almost any 12 volt coil will work for test purposes. The switch could have a bad connection or bad contacts in the plug. Look for a pink connector about 5 wires coming from it. Follow that up to the ignition switch and make sure the switch looks good and is solidly screwed to the back of the key switch.

Fuse? Did you check them before you started replacing parts? A weak coil can also be the culprit.

For which vehicle?

Just outbid me and others on some Brat tail lights too. Busy guy/gal.

It will bolt right into a gen3 vehicle. I had to modify it to fit the Brat. Basically, I cut out the hubs from the Nardi and the stock wheel. Then rewelded the stock hub onto the Nardi. It required me to enlarge the hole to fit it though. Arch, I plan to cut it down later. (I am actually going to try and fab a short shifter for the Brat) It is about the same height as stock just looks and feels better.

Don't sweat it too much. They come and they go. That's part of the beauty of being a Subaru nut is that many people just have them for transportation and don't know that they really will do 200K, 300K and more. More will come and maybe in even better shape and requiring less work.

I picked up a Nardi wheel and shifter from another board member and was going to install them into the kids 3dr but decided I'd like them more. I believe these came from a JDM Impreza. Full sized images can be seen in my gallery, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=5

Tex, email me details for what you think we'll need for space.

I agree, 8 spoke alloys(look at the center caps). They are only available in 13". If you are looking to go bigger diameter those aren't the answer. Scorpion in Australia or Peugeot are about the only option. Unless you can happen across some of the original 14" Jackmans that were sold in the late 70's to early 80's.

Could be a few things. Loose hose in the intake system. Plugged cat. Could also be in limp home mode. Are you getting a check engine light or any codes? Maybe other things as well.

Tex already has the keys. Basically the only set.

Fun little adventure. I hope you gave the dog a treat after that.

Yes, I remember that very well. lol

The blue beast belongs to a friend of mine named Tom. He runs Aerofab.com That is mostly a Ford Ranger. It has complete air bag suspension on it. It made very light work of the mud hole the first couple times through. But after the owner decided too many people were making it through he added about 10-15 yards of dirt/mud to the run making the main part of the bog nearly unpassible. Tom got stuck the first time and made it the second. I went in and made it about 2/3 of the way before getting stuck. $10.00 to the owner for the extraction. The second attempt was a success. I made it to about the same place I got stuck the first time and started to bog down. I quickly hit reverse and cleared a bit of the mud and then hit it hard going forward. Much to the surprise of everyone it made it through. After that we went out and killed some pumpkins. Rear wheel drive is great for that sort of thing. There were all sorts of rigs there from Tom's completely radical Ford, a crew cab Ford with at least 48's to stock Dodges and Jeeps and such. It should be open at least one more week. Stock and lifted Subes will have a blast in the pumpkin patch but attempting the mud bog would be suicide for most, if not all. BTW, the reason we were running amock in the pumpkin patch was they had a hay ride there. After all the rain and such the very large John Deere tractor pulling the trailer got stuck then the dozer got stuck trying to pull out the JD. They finally managed to pull them both out with yet a bigger piece of machinery. One of the emplytees stated that he could make it through with his 4X4. The owner said he'd give him $100.00 he couldn't but that if he got stuck he would have to pay $10.00 to get pulled out. The word spread and it was a serious show after that. Unfortunately, I was a bit busy driving and it got a bit too dark to shoot good pics but you'll have to take our word on it.

Yes, a great time rallying around the hills. Many an upset hunter though. Forgot it was still hunting season. Oh well, most of the hunters were too low to find the animals anyway. All was good until I clipped a rock with the driverside front tire. Sidewall gash but was still holding air, just leaking on every revolution. Matt wasn't as lucky though. He caught his drivers side rear on another rock and it instantly went flat. But, we got them fixed(thanks Sam) and off we went. After splitting the crew we were headed home and I went past the local pumpkin patch and saw a few of my trail buddies stomping around in the mud and pumpkins. Well, come to find out there is a huge mud hole in the back of the property and the owner is paying a $100.00 to anyone who can get through under their own power. The only catch is that if you get stuck you have to pay $10.00 to get pulled out. By the time I got back with my Brat the owner had stopped the $100.00 deal so it was just for fun. Still had to pay $10.00 if you got stuck though. Long story short is I paid $10.00 the first run and made it through the second run. Here's what it looked like after being put back onto the trailer.

At the time of this posting I haven't seen a post in the marketplace. What color is the parts donor? Still need that grey front passenger side front fender. Ken