Steptoe

Yeah, rich while under boost, but under cruise, idle,reverse and light load nothing is gonna burn pistons. Adjusted fuel mixture how mister?

I called a thread repair guy who charged more than a kit was worth, but restored it to M11 and never had any more trouble. If I had bought a kit, it would have 18 years of dust on it now and likely lost for next time I needed it

Might be easier to buy one already done...then follow options that arise after

Keep in mind that the wet fuel gasoline also has a cooling effect the richer the mixture, keeping it on the leaner side of rich for boosting may be better for keeping the heat in the turbo to get best boost advantage?????

Now you tell us !! I use a bar led display unit tapped into my O2 sensor. These connections and taps are supposed to be crimp not soldered as needs to be some reference or something through the wiring ...all voodoo I don't understand I only expect those richer readings while boosting, cruise and light throttle and idle can be closer to stoich and run nice i also use tailpipe anal iser and when I screwed it's sensor behind turbo I got crazy readings all over the place

You want 14.7 cruising, backing off acc pedal totally should cut injectors totally and give you lean as like 29.9 if your gauge goes that far and some ecu will trigger CEL only while in this super lean condition. You could work out if it is 0.1 V to 0.5V that is the lean half and 05 - 0.9v the rich range and just bypass O2 sensor and feed ecu that tiny voltage to keep ecu lean for next inspection

Have a look in post called " Subaru Brumby not priming" it has a simple guide and photos for your temp gauge. Thread started by Mike

Shoot! Wrong thread !

That tab in the middle is stamped 6-6 No idea what it means Heat shrink tubing on wire ends first, pushed back away from heat source until final step...might be 8 or 10 mm ID heat shrink The sensor just fits in where the wire should go, when drilled out to 4.0 mm I think I chop the wire crimp tube off and toss the tab bit The chopped wire crimp tube fits inside the larger terminal, no drilling I solder the smaller crimp tube inside the bigger terminal stamped 16-10, then, yes once soldered, drill out hole to suit sensor and it is tight fit Heat shrink everything up after. The hole in the 16-10 is maybe 10 mm perfect for M8 bolts on thermostat

Here, I will hold your hand ( not often done in here)

I have had a couple of watchdog tm2 and at one tenth the price I like my aquarium units Sensor location recommended by Watchdog is simply the thermostat cover housing bolts! My gauges each run off both these bolts. The cam cases also often has spare threaded holes in them but that is thicker metal than thermo housing and closer to coolant There is a lower priced engine guard also sold here in Aus for $100 I think The watchdog us powered via cig socket , best if you hardwire. TM4 is a twin setting or twin circuit, can't recall These Chinese units I make up been tested 150,000 km so far

Peanut Butter? OP has used PB for pedal box in earlier posts left cable looks genuine it is always good to fix a few things at a time so never really know for sure what was the culprit good news

I'd guess it just an air lock and key word is prime. I have had same problem in rebuilds with spotless oil pump tube pick up screens

Me too think it is the normal blink for Series One EA82 mpfi turbo reading O2 sensor . What is your gauge reading now?

If it is AWD and you drive it with an axle missing ...I would not!! What damage will happen to centre diff? These AWD must not be towed on just two wheels

In the console between elbows, yes That is the button you pressing and feel nothing? It activates manifold vacuum switching solenoids you find mounted centrally above firewall that activate and deactivate a six inch diameter diaphragm on left side front up high on gearbox that actuates a cable that looks like clutch cable thick, runs over to right side of gearbox where a lever is close to gearbox mount

On my tablet I have no clue how to link. So go to your preferred online access to China, use search terms such as 12v aquarium digital temperature alarm and look through the million possible choices Some are twin circuit, twin channel, some mains voltage get shoved into category so make sure you get 12v They come with screw terminals to add a relay or buzzer. I use these to drive the relays 85, 86 switching. I use the ones that are about 75 mm wide,25 high, come in matching grey body with red digits The sender is about 4 mm diameter by about 19 long probe You can just make a mount tab from some aluminium flat, 6 mm thick about 20x20, drill hole to suit probe tight fit, 8.5 mm hole to mount tab on thermostat housing hold down bolt or do two circuits, one on left head, other on right

Had no choice but to work ! happy to help

Thermostat gasket and that bastard of a rubber coolant hose between block and thermostat housing can also bust a leak, sneak down and drip from timing belts to make it look like water pump leak. I think we all need cooling system pressure test kits

Not the first, won't be the last to do this

I think you have AWD not just selectable 4WD Any labels on it to saw AWD? If so, and the button you don't say where , is a diff lock button? You won't feel anything Get it on loose surface, wind window down to listen and take off Ina hurry. Do you hear rear wheels gripping and just front wheels tearing away on loose surface? There is a difference. If you have AWD and diff lock, diff lock is for centre diff inside rear of gearbox, so it is also manual not automatic? The centre diff lock ties the front wheels diff and the rear wheel diff together for off road stuff, for want of simpler terms

With the oil filter off you will see a port that is the other end of the pick up in the sump. There is a size of clear PVC tube about 10 mm? OD that you can shove in it add a funnel then pour oil into it, down to pick up. Has worked for me every time.

Yes. I have run my EA82MONGREL for years without the factory water temp gauge. Instead I use two metal temp gauges, one purely as a high temp alarm set to 96° C They are simple, cheap, Chinese made and sourced 12V aquarium digital units with switching for alarm as I first mentioned, the second is my visible in digital numbers and also set to turn both fans on at 92°C metal temp I used to run separate fan switching so I slow traffic just to manually turn one on, but two at same time have been working well, they cycle on and off pretty quickly

What is the base timing supposed to be on spfi? The way I set my early turbo static is to get #1 on TDC not#2 Then nudge it to the timing mark Then pull cap to line up one of four points of star thing on post with the other thing as depicted,and ensure rotor is pointing at #1 terminal post in cap underside Fires up and drives nice every time

Let me see....here is a few shots of my pedal box I adapted to take EA82 cable in my Brumby, but you get the idea of extra bracing required