calebz

Whats your room mate going to race you with.. a 30 year old moped?.. otherwise, you're screwed

Try adding some extra grounds in the engine bay.. My car was doing some odd stuff when the lights and blower were on.. all went away with the addition of a couple of battery to body and engine to body ground wires.

best idea would be to look at it and see where the water is coming from. Also check to see if there is water in the oil. EA82s do not like to be overheated and can eat headgaskets as a result.

If it makes you east coast guys feel any better, every time I go looking for a good used Saab, there all in the East

one long three short= 13 Crank angle sensor. Don't you have another thread going about this right now? the eight shorts are something like manufacturer info.. mine does 4 longs all the time.

Probably no dealership in detroit.. No dealerships in WA either.. no pug dealerships in the US since about 91 or so

Thats right Mark, I forgot about that! You were the discoverer of that particular oddity a while back weren't you? Additionally, check the rest of your fuses and your fusible links.(the links are in the black box attached to the coolant tank) Snowstormer.. You're right. I am partial to fuel injection.. a lot of that has to do with me knowing a lot more about FI than carbs. The only way I would convert backwards is if I had no other option. Of my last 25 or so cars, only 3 of them have been carb'd.. My 73 chevy truck, 69 Dart GTS and 56 Pontiac star chief.. had any of them come available in a Fuel injected setup, I probably would have changed them.

Plug in the green ones...If there is still no light on the ECU with the key in the on position, I would bet on a fried ECU.. happened to me last summer

Start with this and report back. http://usmb.net/repair/?CurrentDirectory=FOLDER_3f29b58f4430b8.49200047/&FileType=Article&File=ARTICLE_3f2c055f4862e9.39782181.art

Bout $150/month .. full coverage on the subaru and the camry

Umm.. no. Pugs are not terribly attractive wheels in any form. If you think that people are saying stuff like 'nice 4 wheeler' because of sume substandard pug alloys, you must be hanging out with some seriously mentally challenged people. Besides.. whats the point of having a lifted car/truck if you aren't actually going to use it for 4 wheeling? (and yes, I have had both steels and alloys.. Steels on my wagon.. alloys on my Pug 505 Turbo)

Good luck, stay safe and thanks.

Not all the digidashes are crap. I have had 4 soobs with fully functional digidashes. I have heard that the EA81 digidashes are problematic, as well as the 85-86 EA82 digidashes.. But All of mine have been 87+ and trouble free..I can even see them when theres a glare.. That said, I still wouldn't swap an analog for a digi.. lots of work, no gain.

Personally, I would start by clearing the codes and see what fresh codes pop up.

They get pissed. Back when I got my first soob, I also had a peugeot 505 Turbo.. After owning it for a while I found that the Peugeot owners were a bunch of elitist prigs.. They were, in general, madder than hell about us using their wheels.. But, then again, even amongst themselves, $65 per wheel for 14 inch steels was pretty common.

The thing on the AC has nothing to do with the ignition.. it reads how fast the AC pully is spinning and compares it to the RPMs of the motor.. if theres too big of a difference, it won't turn the AC on.

Mine was so fragile I removed it and slapped a cone filter on there. Fragile.. jeez.. Be careful.. we all know them thar airfilter housings are made of glass!

Thats why I brought the whole ebay seller/feedback thing in the first place.. to check feedbacks to see what others have to say about the CD. Many feedbacks I have seen in regards to some of the Ebay repair CDs are not too favorable.

Yeah.. I wanted to see the associated flame war

Not likely!

Jumpy tach is usually a sign of wear on distributor bushings.

SUbaru brakes need to be bled in an X pattern.. bleeding the fronts or rears by themselves like its a chevy won't do you much good

Just swap swap the EGR solenoid (not the valve) with a good junkyard one.. take a multimeter to the junkyard to test it with .. should be around ~35 ohms IIRC. Oh.. and the oil filler tube on all my soobs has sounded like a tailpipe when I pulle the cap while the car is running.. I assume its normal.

the front and rear struts are 3 pieces..strut cartridge, spring and strut top. If you go to a wrecking yard, each one comes off as one piece. so, when you pull them , you end up with 4 completely assembled struts. no need to disassemble them. The fronts have 3 12mm nuts up top and 2 14mm bolts on the bottom. plus theres a bracket welded to the strut that a brake line runs through. You have the option of dicconnecting the brake line, or cutting a notch in the bracket.. I usually cut the notch with a little cordless jigsaw The rears have 2 17mm bolts up top and 1 14mm(I think) on the bottom. No special brackets to be bought.. If you buy the complete assemblies from a wrecking yard, there are no special tools needed(except for either a line wrench or something to cut the brake line bracket as mentioned above)..Its a straight bolt on swap.. Pretty quick and easy. PS.. my other car is a Toyota.. I am always happy to work on my soob after having to do something on the toyota. If your husband enjoys wrenching even a little, he will find the subaru an absolute delight to work on.. Easiest car I have ever tinkered with

My vote is to replace with regular struts. Quick, easy, Cheap. you can probably get a good set at a junkyard for under $100.. I could do all 4 in under an hour. Pick your replcaement struts based on the amount of ground clearance you want (XT, Sedan, Wagon, 2WD, 4WD..theres 3-4 different strut lengths.. any will work though) My 87 wagon is also an ex-air ride car