calebz

I have the S/R FT4WD with locking diff and matching LSD.. big improvement over the part time S/R and open rear diff I had in there..(which was probably an improvement over the 3AT that was in there before that)

Skip, if you're around, could you put up a little closer up pic of your gauge pod? Thanks

Sounds like the axle is 180 off. pins will go in part way like that, but then they bind up.

Minor correction. The S/R and D/R Full Time 4WD trannies do have a center diff. It is an open diff with a vacuum actuated lock. See image for center difflock switch http://usmb.net/albums/albuo11/picture_012.jpg

Factory service manual is the way to go.. But the haynes is kinda ok for a cheapo manual.

The ECS/Check Engine Light is on to tell you that there are error codes stored in th computer. And no, the muffler being gone wouldn't cause it to come on. The air ride, if disconnected, would mean that it has been converted to coil spring suspension. If it was disconnected and still had the air struts, the car would be really low and ride like poo. Do a search for 'air ride' to read more on the horrors of it. I wouldn't worry about the turbo too much.. they don't die very often.

Never buy from someone with "private" feedback.. they have something to hide. I would try to find the same CD set from another seller and then check their feedback to see what people who have bought the CD have to say.

Its on the front / bottom of the motor. .. one tip.. Get a manual... Maybe change T-belts, water pump and other associated crap while in there.

Hey styles.. when you gonna put that hood scoop on? Hmm.. maybe I need to lower my car too... Nahhh.. I like being able to hop curbs when necessary:)

I paid that much .... for 5 14inch steels

Welcome to the Board! My wife has family in Bryne, Norway. (And a brother named Erik) An 1800 Turbowagon is a good replacement for a Mazda 323.

I've had the same problem with my wagon. I added a couple extra grounds under the hood from the battery to the body and from the motor to the body.. Problem solved. Soobs like grounds

Is it currently running? How much did you have it advertised for?

Linky no worky

The boost switxh and pressuse switch were originally located right in front of the passenger side strut tower on your donor car. one of them controls the bosst light on the dash, one controls the fuel cutoff/overboost protection on the 86/86 turbo cars.

No viscous center diff. When the button isn't pushed, its FWD, when pushed, its 4WD. Diff Ratio is 3.70. Exhaust is 3 pieces, downpipe, midpipe with cat, and tail pipe with muffler. 1495 is more than I would pay for an 86, but its not unreasonable, especially if its rust free on the east coast.

Well, unless yo guys did something silly, your friend is probably right.

I just checked the Geocities link and its working at the moment. Personally, I haven't run into the fuel cut yet.. Even at 12psi

Try this one instead.. I believe all the sizes and such are there. http://www.geocities.com/chmwatson/FAQs/mbc.html Read the post a couple responses up about peculiarities and issues with building this one.

DIS=Direct ignition system(at least thats what it was called for my Saab) Basically, there is a control module and a seperate coil for each spark plug. Theres also a system on the legacy that uses a coil pack instead of a distributor. If you want to run any sort of non- distributor set up, be prepared to completely rewire your ignition system and probably replace your computer with some sort of aftermarket engine managment setup. You will need time, lots of knowledge and a bit of $$

I suppose you could try to engineer a way to use a DIS on an EA82.. But no one that I know of has done it yet.

you already have an electronic ignition. if you are looking for something aftermarket thats more powerful, try something like a jacobs ignition. You will still need to use your stock distributor though.

Gotta get me one of them EA82s with solid lifters:) And I'll bet theres a lot of people that will be happy to know that the EA81 to EA82 is now a straight swap:grin:

Ooooohhh.. the horror!!.. My eyes!! skishop69.. thats just painfully wrong.

Nick .. all the stuff in my pictures is a result of time, patience, imagination, help from friends and a whole lot of looking at what others on the board have done. 1) Boost controller: This was made by another board member based on instructions available online. I will look later to see if I can find the link. It takes about 10 minutes to install... and thats with an 8 minute smoke break. It does require a boost gauge and a little time to properly calibrate. 2) Intercooler and BOV(recirculating) :The IC and BOV are both from a Gen 2 RX7. I made the mounts myself. All of the plumbing for the IC is from the RX7 and from a Dodge Conquest Turbo. The only modifications to the plumbing parts I made were, cutting one of the soft hoses and reattaching at a different angle.. And having a small tube welded on for the BOV. The BOV itself recirculates back into the intake boot behind the MAF (see above conversation) This was done by drilling a hole in the small 'silencer' that sticks off the intake boot and venting the BOV into there. 3) Cone Filter: The cone filter is easy. Go to Autozone and buy the MAF adapter they carry for nissans.. it will bolt right on to your MAF. Cone filter attaches directly to that. 4) Hood scoop: I used a circular saw with a metal cutoff wheel to cut a 16x7 hole in the top of the hood above the IC. The scoop itself attaches with double sided foam tape.. for now. I've done tons of other stuff to the car, but none thats relevant to yours, because you are starting with an RX, not a shell of an automatic turbowagon:) Any questions?