TomRhere

Horn button is removed by pulling the bottom edges toward you. Getting it snapped back in-place is another story.... Grrrrr! Original horns have both a power and ground wire going to them, so some wiring changes would be needed from relay to horns. Use Factory wiring to operate the relay, and a fused circuit to the horns. Most of the issues I've had with horns has been corrosion at the horn(s) themselves.

Sounds good to me. We can plan things out, once it gets warmer outside.

I would still suspect a vacuum leak, seeing as it's carbed. Abnormal "high idle" when cold, along with abnormal "low idle" when warm, tends to indicate a vac leak. You can check for vac leaks yourself, no need to pay someone to do so. Buy a can of carb cleaner. Pop the hood and start engine. Start spraying the carb cleaner (using the straw) slowly around the engine, follow ALL of the vac hoses. Change of engine speed indicates a vac leak. Be sure to check the hoses going to the carbon canister, transmition controls (if it's a Push-Button 4WD type, or Auto), heater-A/C vac resevior. Hoses can crack at thier connection(s), and split anywhere along thier length of run. They are 20 some years old now. Sucks getting "Old"...

I swapped an EA82 SPFI type EGR valve in place of the EA81 type when I removed the AAV from my BRAT's, as they don't have the fitting for the AAV hose connection.

Thinking your return trip should down thru Michigan. Then you could stop by here. :cool: Have to dig around in the shed, but may have front bumper off an '85-'86 Sedan here. Not sure at the moment...... Would really like to meet you Tom. And Fox ain't been here in forever!!! (Could even arrange for Rich to be here so you could meet him, seeeing as you donated towards his medical bills.)

Start the engine and let it warm up to temp. Put Heat Selector to it's Hottest setting, turn blower to High. Pop the hood and feel the heater hoses; There should be a slight temp difference between them.. If the return hose feels much cooler then the supply hose, your core is clogged. The heater core is a smaller version of your radiator, so to speak. Air going thru the fins pulls heat from the coolant to warm the cabin. If the coolant is restricted by built up crud, it stays in the core longer, thus being cooled more by the air passing the thru the fins. It may be possible to just reverse the supply/return hoses under the hood, to flush it out. Works on occasssion. A garden hose held to either of the hoses can flush it out also. Just don't attach the garden hose solidly. You can cause damage to the core by over-pressurizing it. 13-15psi system vs 40+psi house pressure. You will want to swap the garden hose between the 2 heater hoses anyways to aide in flushing debris out. Allow the water to flow for a couple minutes, then hold the hose to the other heater hose, swap it again, and again. Hook the heater hoses back to the core, fill system, start engine & warm it up, check heater output. Hopefully, it worked, and you have good heat. Changing out the core itself is a P.I.T.A. job. BT-DT!!

Can't really go by the dash gauge, they vary to much between vehicles. For example, my White '86 BRAT ran around the 1/4 mark, and the '85 BRAT is just below 1/2. Both have(had) new radiator, waterpump, T-stat, hoses, along with heater core flush. Shot the '85 with a temp gun as I thought it was running to warm. Don't recall actual reading now, but it was "normal". After doing all of the above parts on the Brown '86 BRAT I had, I could watch the T-stat open/close by looking at the dash gauge, if it was below 0*F outside. 1st time seeing that was a bit freaky, as I was on my way to work and out in the middle of no-where. I would suspect a clogged heater core for the low heat output. Having warm air then going cold air is typical sign of core issue.

Welcome. Nice looking BRAT, Brumby, UTE, MV!!!!!!

Open vacuum port on the 1-3 side could cause the miss. There's enough fuel/air charge in the manifold from the 2-4 side firing, for #1 to fire, (albiet weakly), but nothing is left for #3. Trust me, it can happen.

Trust me,,,, I hear you!!!! Got a few here that I've been, wrenching on, and or, just letting sit, due to not having money, parts, time. Choose order yourself. Still, if it the trans, another one would be cheaper than buying that El Camino. (Would lke to have one of those myself, owned a few in the past.) Not sure in your area, but around these parts, an El Camino was considered a "Sports Car". Meaning higher insurance rates, regardless. So that's something else to consider.

Don't be to quick to dismiss things moving around. You have a "swapped trans & controls" in there, things can and do move after time. And what the PO did may have worked, up to the time you wrenched on it. A tranny mount could have failed from you moving the trans around abit doing the axle(s). An "old mount" could very well do that. That would allow the trans to shift a bit, throwing the shifter out of whack. Just trying to give you some ideas to check is all. Can't see the trans failing that quickly, has to something related to recent work. Not saying "you caused it", just saying to take a good look at everything.

I can see where rain could get into the exhaust while the engine is out, especially if the hood was open or off of the car. I can see how all of that water can cause some serious backpressure, which 'may", keep an engine from firing up. Just can't quite see how that led to a gasket blowing, and dumping coolant into the oilpan. One of the freezeplugs in the heads letting go would dump the coolant into the oilpan, and quickly. Just some thoughts is all.....

I would pull the trim panel unders the steering column 1st, as you can see where the cable attaches to the speedo head that way. If memory serves me correctly, it's just about straight up from the gas pedal. Not everyone is able to get there hand up there, but a pair of long (8"+) needle-nose pliers works wonders. The end of the cable "may" still be on the drive attachment, but be pulled back enough to not work. Try to slide it back onto the drive. If it hasn't come completly off of the drive, you "may" be able to push it on by pushing the cable towards the dash from under the hood. It's really not that difficult to inadvertantly pull the cable off the speedo while working under the hood in that area. Been a few Members post up about doing so, MilesFox included.

Thinking here that the 2WD/4WD Selector Lever isn't allowing the trans to fully shift into 2WD. I would atleast take a look at it.

Thanks for the confirmation Cougar. Still haven't finalized the wiring, as I haven't took the time to locate things inside the Wagon. Been busy on other things. Knew it was going to take me some time to get this here vehicle on the road, but it's been over 14 months now. Sheeesh.... Talk about procrasternating.....

Oldest Son Rich, got me one of those colaspable engine hoists a couple years ago. Love it.... Would like to get a 2-post lift, but won't fit in my garage. Seeing that lift GD posted has got me thinking of one of those now. Body doesn't like the "get down on the floor" thing that much anymore....

Just finished reading thru all of your builds. I am in awe of your skills with fiberglass. The 3 wheeler has got me thinking, which = not good.... Got most of the parts here to do one....

Didn't consider using the inner pipe, just fit the muffler to the outer pipe. Got me wondering now if that was a good idea or not....... Then again, it's been a couple years now, no issues noticed, yet.

Granted, mines a BRAT and not turboed, but I did the following after the flange to the mid-pipe broke off and local shops wouldn't weld it back together. Finished removing the flange from the y-pipe, bought a cherry bomb muffler to fit pipe, cut mid-pipe to fit into the c.b., cut off stock muffler and extended the inlet pipe out past the bumper. Nice mellow burble at idle, not annoying going down the road. I hear more intake noise then exhaust noise when running up thru the gears.

Good to hear that he's still upright and breathing, and enjoying retirement. Do miss him on here though.

I so need to get me a set of jackstands like those.

Appreciate the offer. Tom

PM received. Thanks ! Tom

Anybody on here have a link to the body Electrical Section? Or perhaps could scan parts of it for me ? Been digging around on here and few other sites, no joy found. Lot's of Engine/Engine Management files found, but nothing for the body wiring. My Hayne's, (and it's "typical wiring" just isn't helping all that much. Reason for asking; Have an XT6 FT4WD 5-speed in the Wagon, want to wire in the Diff-Lock solenoids and control switch. Found a White round connector under the hood, up near the wiper motor, that I think could be for a Pushbutton 4WD setup. Just not sure... It has 2-Black, 1-Blue, and 1-Green/Yellow wires in it. Close to what my XT6 FSM calls out, but the Blue wire should have a White stripe according to it. Also, would like to know shape/color and wire code for the connector inside the car that control switch would go to. Tom

Check the connectors on the sending unit for corrosion. You'll find them on the rear center of the tank. Been the issue with mine atleast.