Petersubaru

the new shell syn blend called T-5 ..10/30 diesel oil..plenty of zinc..seen at WMart $15..makes life a lot easier if zinc is what you are after..

..a beautiful picture..are my eyes deceiving me, but has the rubber boot on the lower ball been dislodged...

just a safety concern here....looking at the photo of the impreza stud, the smooth part of the shaft is much longer then the stud next to it...if a flat tire should occur and if you are useing the spare tire/steel wheel, a "spacer" may be needed to properly torque the lug nuts

in what you are thinking to buy is a completely different animal..for ex. the fuel delivery system..engine and front exhaust are not interchangeable to what you are driving..

Is some kind of pre-filter required before the fuel pump similar to the original carb set-up...maybe a "sock" in the tank or just nothing at all...

I believe I remember that from your EA81 conversion write-up...although being interchangeable, ...for testing purposes, will the motor still fire up without the clutch switch installation or will some temporary "on off switch" have to take its place

concerning a 1990 spfi to be installed with the "silver " colored ECU...can a "black" ecu be used instead as a direct fit or will wires have to be moved around on the yellow ecu connectors...also what yrs did not have the sliding automatic belt tensioners...thanks

...although I can not speak from having direct experience, ..the info provided above and from autozone would appear "not" to be correct..for example..when looking at the web site "subaru parts for you" ..comparing the "01 Forester and OB..different part numbers are not just for the timing belt but also for the pulleys and sprockets (for ex. Cam R side sprockett for the forester is #13017AA042.. and for the OB #13017AA05D)..this topic has been brought up before...interesting read @ http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=93767

..subaru has 2 different belts for the sohc engine..differences in pitch not really discernible with the eye..the vin number will tell what belts will be needed

..I must of got lucky..not long ago I purchased a new oil pump thru Rockauto/Bec/arnley..came with all the seals etc..even included a spare seal for behind the sproket..

..if that is in fact the case..the subi conditioner will not work here

more of guess here, but then again it has been also my experience..if both fans come on (A/C turned off).. this would point to a thermostat problem..over heating could be a small leak (hardly noticeable) allowing air into the system...hold off on the rad until you are completely sure...keep in mind that a pressure test may or may not find the problem..it really depends on how large the problem is ...

you have a small leak or opening, drawing/sucking air into the coolant system thus preventing the coolant from the reser. to be returned back thru the rad..problem could be anything from a headgasket leak to a faulty rad cap (the top rubber seal is worn out)..replace the rad cap to start with..pressure testing the system "may or may not" find the problem

..reg,semi,syn,..it makes no difference to me..oil is rated on its ability to perform according to manuf. specs, not what it is made from..keeping the oil clean or fresh is more important to me..I buy from the nearest GM store @ $20/gal

if you are having driveability issues because the O2 sensor failing..go up to 89 or 91 octane..should bring back smoothness.. a change in gas stations cleared up the "cat eff." problem for me..perhaps a coincidence, time will tell

..you be the judge.. http://www.sandyblogs.com/techlink/2009/05/dexron-vi.html .. I have had no problem useing it in my "01 OB for the last 60k/mi..was useing it in my '86 subi for 3yrs before rust ate the body...

..if the motor is running smooth leave it alone or if that one plug has no oil on it, it's good to go

water pumps at "rockauto" ..starting at $12 ..BeckArnley I just bought for $17 this morning

..Yes, the EGR was stuck "closed"..after reading one of your other EGR threads...I replaced that EGR with one that was working plus a new vacuum hose going to it ..my car still has the original style Hitachi carb and this simple change completely made the car run normal again..no more stuttering or miss or rich smelling exhaust smoke..the plugs stay clean now...

Not familliar with the brat..but my '86 ea82 ran very rich (the plugs were black), stumbling, and back fireing when letting off the throttle...turns out the EGR was siezed..all is working very well now

it was good that this thread was brought up to the surface again..EGR vac leak and rust made the old car run rough after winter..changed out the part and other alterations made this car run even better..very smooth..I can stand a nickel on end at 750rpm

[quote So then the only difference between an earlier EJ timing kit and a 2000+ SOHC 2.5 kit is the tensioner/idler and presumably the belt since they are a 60k and 100k interval respectively. .................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................I could be wrong here, but I think it is not that easy to simply assume..for example my '01 OB (same for 2000-2009) takes the Gates T307 T/belt, ..this particular belt has a different "tooth" profile when comparing to the 3 different belts used for the 2.2L motor (T304/T254/T172) .. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=109628

..I am sure there are many theories as to the above "why"..I have talked with several subi mechanics at different locations and the common understanding is:..1/since the tensioner according too subaru remains as a "judgement "call (if it is not leaking, leave it), the last thing the dealer wants to do is replace something that is still functioning perfectly and then trying to explain this to the customer..( this would not add any credibility to an already "shady" business)..2/subaru Does recommend for that tensioner to be inspected sometime during its life..3/ do you really think that the car is going to go another 105k without a newer headgasket especially since most subis on the road have not had a HG replacement coming up to there first timing belt exchange..in other words a new HG plus a load of other timing belt running parts will be coming in the future..just not yet..

so if your car takes a Gates 307 timing belt..then you can not upgrade to the older style tensioner without also getting the matching TB ( has a different length requirement and tooth design) plus all toothed pulleys or wheels would also have to exchanged to fit the different belt

I know this question was asked a long time ago and could not find thru "search"..does anybody know the difference between the Gates belt(s) T304/T307..both have the same demensions and exchange interval..would the teeth be slightly different??