Legacy777

The only thing that needs greasing is the caliper guide pins. However if the dealer had the caliper off to check this and didn't grease them, that's pretty shotty service. As for the vibration, did you just have new brake pads put on? It's possible the old pad material on the rotor is causing an intermittant deposit of the new pad material and causing the shimmy you feel. You can try taking the rotors off and sanding them to see if that helps. Where do you feel the vibration? In the steering wheel or in the brake pedal? The valve noise is probably from the lifters. If the oil wasn't changed regularly, it's possible crud got into the hydraulic lifters and gummed things up.

So the speedo doesn't work normally? Are you getting any codes? If not, It's probably the motor in the dash that operates the speedo needle. If it were the speed sensor, it would pop up a CEL. It's possible there is a loose connection. If you wanted to take apart the dash and pull out the combination unit to check it out, you might get lucky.

If the car's running fine, I wouldn't bother with another maf. That code is for the a/f learning control, which is tied to the ECU. You'd be better off trying another ecu IMO.

Hmm.....yeah...something sounds weird. To be quite honest, most dealer mechanics are just parts changers. They have very little troubleshooting skills, and unless a blatent computer code is flashing in their face, they're stumped. You never answered my question. So the starter cranks? but the engine doesn't start? There's two things you need for the engine to work, fuel and spark. If the engine is cranking, not starting, and you pull a plug out and it's wet, I'd say you have fuel. Leave a plug out and resting against the block to see if you have spark. The only thing left is to check whether spark & fuel are being delivered at the appropriate times. If the timing belt is good and aligned properly, then it's possible your ECU is on the fritz.

Welcome Andrew.

instructions on how to pull the codes is on my website. Pull the codes and post what info you find.

It might be... You had like 7 pictures...give or take 2 or 3, and the email was like 9mb. Those are pretty big pictures.

there are a couple good write-ups in the subaru conversion forum on http://forums.nasioc.com may want to check that out, as well as this page http://wac.addr.com/auto/obs/disc/disc.html

I'm in seattle till monday. I won't get to post pics until I get back.....I'll have to resize them....they're a little big

depends on what book and/or cd......if they're both the same, and you like to have paper in front of you...get the book.

The automatic transmissions have a torque split of 90/10 under normal straight dry driving conditions. So the front wheels are going to be most of the work. WHen slip occurs, the torque split can increase up to 50/50 Manual transmission cars have 50/50 torque split all the time. Manual tranny cars use a viscous limited slip differential to control torque transfer, while the autos use electronics.

pics http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/trannyresistor1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/trannyresistor2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/trannyresistor3.jpg Don't do what the picture says...leave it plugged in http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/trans_connector.jpg

I think if had put the transmission in first gear it might have given you enough clearance. When you put it back together, just put the bolt in through the other side and nut on the transmission side. The one in my pic is the newer style....which isn't necessarily better.

That's weird....did it look like the line was kinked? I'm assuming it didn't rust out. Wonder if it got damaged during install, or while someone was working on the car.

http://techinfo.subaru.com

I would think the resistor should be there. However where it's located.....not really sure. Do you have any manuals for the car?

Which bolt are you talking about? http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/swap/15/DCP_3352.JPG http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/swap/12/DCP_3315.JPG

or here http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/ I've got the 2002 manuals, and what's on the site corky posted, but in a much better format, if you want to suck it all down.

Welcome to the board. What model & year subie do you have? I haven't ever heard of that happening. Where in the hard line di it break? Down near the tranny or up along the frame rail?

when they turn on, are they kind of dim? Do you hear the clicking from the blinker? Might be a short, or probably a bad blinker unit. There's a bimetallic strip in there, and that may have worn out.

ok....so you used a non-abs jdm valve....not a usdm one.

The proportioning valves are different between the abs & non-abs cars. You should really try and find a prop valve from a non-abs car. What the ramafications are for using the abs one on a non-abs car......I'm not sure.

usually if the light is on all the time, even after a reset....it's probably bad.

So the starter cranks? but the engine doesn't start?

Andrew, I'm not sure what the gear ratios were like overseas, but the turbo legacies in the states got 3.90 final drive ratio. However.....that really doesn't matter. The differential is staying the same. You're just replacing the gear sets. You can do whatever you want with the gear sets. You can remove the drive pinion shaft from the driven shaft. These scans may help show what I'm talking about http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/MT_AWD_drive_pinion_assy.jpg here's the main shaft http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/MT_main_shaft_assy.jpg