Turbone

You are about 2000mi away :-\ This was a day trip.

Well, I'm not usually one to jump on the band wagon and *************** and complain, BUT......... With barely 4mo left in the season, we have no date. There are people that have jobs and getting approval for vacation in a short time is going to be difficult (if not impossible). Last year WCSS10 was announced in NOV. Its now close to the end of APR

A greater offset would cause the tire to rub on the strut, trailing arms and other inside parts. A smaller offset would cause the tires to rub on the fenders. Wheel width also has a effect.

Its a 4wd! And its got some rare Enkei wheels too. Nice score!

It was good seeing you again Jerry. Thanks again for the BBQ, I wasnt hungry till about 10pm :-p Uneventful trip home, all went well. Hope to see you again soon

Yes, pull out the ashtray and you will see a blue box. I believe thats the controller.

My ADR Sokudo 17x7 have a offset of 48mm. WRX wheels have a offset of 55mm

I agree about the controller being bad. But drain all..........what?

Bad vacuum leaks would make it run bad. So would the wrong distributor.

Return them and get your money back.

I've had my Sears charger for almost 30yrs. Simple and effective. Its been in the rain several times and I've had to patch up all the cords on it a few times. But it still charges.

I dont think its going to run without the correct disty in it. What year is it?

Ah, I didnt even catch the date on that. All I saw was EA81T :-p

Try using a small screwdriver to slide the switch on the pod. I've had to do this before on one that was broken. And the orange digidashes are hard to see in bright daylight.

How much are you looking to spend? If money is no object, I would suggest going to a local shop and finding out when a shop truck comes around. Snap-On Matco Cornwell If you are trying to save money, try Sears, NAPA, etc.

All Brats are EA81, no matter what year it is. Is it different down under?

Any 85-93 Subaru will work. You can either buy them new, online or from dealership, or go to the wrecking yards and get them.

Sometimes you win, sometimes you lose.

Thats been the going price for quite a while for rebuilts. And a EA82 would be a downgrade.

I bet it has to do with whats under the hood

I re-checked everything this afternoon and re-tightened everything. One radius rod and both control arms were loose. But I still have a wobble :-\ And its a weird one. Its not cyclic, its just random. I'm going to rotate tires tomorrow, see if that helps.

That is a awesome car. More pics and info please. And welcome to USMB.

I havent had much road time yet to notice the difference yet. I put about 6mi on it going to the car wash and I thought the right front bearing was going to seize on me But the rear felt fine otherwise.

Are we missing some pics here, or what?

I didnt use the normal swap parts. They are mostly XT6, but I used XT6 2WD front struts. All parts were from a 89 XT6, I cant remember what year the front struts were off of. Rear - XT6 backing plate, rotor and hub. I've had the EA82 adjustable rear shocks for years and I got replacement KYB GR2's to fit the coil perch. But I didnt want the rump roast end sticking up any more, I wanted to lower the car. I planned on flipping the top mounts like we do on the XT6's to lower it, but I found out this involved making a hole in the top of the wheel well for the longer strut top (same for a XT6). I didnt have time to mess with doing that, so I opted for cutting the springs I only took out 2 coils and figured if it was to low, I could always adjust the shock up a notch. As you can see, it wasnt needed and the ride quality is not effected at all. Front - XT6 hub, rotor, brake caliper, axle, lower control arm and tie rod end. I planned on using the top hats off my RX struts, but upon removal discovered they were toast (never even noticed). I had a pair of XT air struts and used the top hats off those. Also had a bad inner tie rod and replaced that with another from a XT rack I had. Russ re-used the RX bolt for the inner bushing of the lower control arm to x-member. I may change that, one side seems loose. Normally the x-member hole is drilled to 1/2in for the XT6 bolt. I also had a frozen caliper and had to run to my parts car to get another. Along with the lower strut bolts and a lower ball joint. And once it was all together, we took it around the block to seat things and the right front bearings are toast. At least I have another hub on my parts car The only new parts I have installed were front brake pads and lug nuts. I already had XT6 front and rear sway bars installed, but right now I decided to try not having the front hooked up. It still needs a alignment, the steering wheel isnt centered and the steering feels off.