Turbone

At 80K, the shaft shouldnt be worn, nor the sensor be necessarily bad. When were the spark plugs last changed? Might want to check to see if they are the correct ones also. If you do replace them, get NGK's.

I've had some really tight ones before. I use my 1/2 drive ratchet and a soft blow hammer. Lefty loosey, righty tighty

Russ didnt mention it here, but he told me the other day that he was going to try a pressure test and some other test. Pat, the ER27 pump is specific. I'm pretty sure every time I wash the car I hose out the AC condenser and rad.

Actually, I'm the current owner :-p Its just on loan to Russ till he gets his RX finished. We were talking about all of this last weekend and the only thing that hasnt been replaced (besides hoses) is the waterpump. Usually when it heats up while on the road, its a radiator problem. When it gets hot while idling, its the WP. This only heats up while on the road. I replaced the rad with another one, and the issue remains. Also, the car doesnt have that many miles on it, I think around 125K. Its been in WA its entire life, so rust isnt a issue. So, maybe after replacing some more hoses the last thing to do will be the WP. But if it continues, this lump is getting yanked. I have another engine to go in it and the cooling system will be gone thru. Oh, and we need to put the old rad back in. Russ said that the upper hose outlet is fubared.

I doubt the diodes have anything to do with the lights, most likely for the digi dash. And like you said, jamming the switch getting in and out might have buggered something in it.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1736158 Heres a link to a bunch of us taking the Cascade Loop July 11th. It should take us about 13hrs

Yes, I've done the hair dryer and canned air bit. It depends on how bad and where the dent is, but I've had pretty good luck with it. Dry ice is a pita to deal with.

Dang Bill :-\ Insured, I hope?

http://subaruxt.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=1&sid=230f82ae140967de3052a23bb0d3c6ef

No on all counts but the last one. Pretty much have to stick with stock seats, unless you have access to a wrecking yard with some 90's Mazda Protege's (http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=99875). Converting others require rail modifications. No on the headlights. No on the tail lights, they are coupe specific. No on the bumpers. And no, it shouldnt be to expensive for a new windshield. And yes, you can use a newer steering wheel (EA81). It will bolt right up. These cars look cool just the way they are, stock. Especially a convertible. To go making mods to it like your thinking would ruin its appeal, IMHO.

Well, these seats are several years newer, thats a big plus. And the build quality and strength is a improvement also. These seem to be a little narrower on the back, I dont roll back and forth much with the adjustable sides.

Just put a EA82T in it Jebus Bill, what rotten luck. Glad you got out ok and you were able to salvage some stuff. Rob goes out and makes sure fire extinguisher is in RX. Oh, and luckily (if you can say that) there wasnt enough sage brush there to start a wildfire.

Check the disty rotor, make sure its tight on the shaft. The disty should have the optical sensor in it also, so this being bad is a possibility. This thread should actually be in old School forum.

I could probably do a EA82T swap - twice - in the time it takes me to do a tranny swap. With the right tools, it can be cake. Lift, concrete floor, jacks, air tools, etc. It general, it takes me all day if I'm doing it by myself.

Mmmmm, eye candy :-p But you know I would prefer mine PC'd black

I might have one, I'll need to dig deep for it tho. And that should have a EA82 in it.

Darn close, the RX seat has vinyl and cloth. These sit a tad higher in the front, but I figure with the multiple adjustments on the drivers seat, it should be ok. Me sitting a little higher isnt that big a deal

Finally got the passenger seat in. It probably took about 3-4hrs total work to swap rails :-\ I plan on doing it differently on the drivers seat.

Go over to the Retrofit Forum and look around - do a search. Lots of info about the car and mods you can do. Welcome to the Board.

I didnt check the years, but there were a couple of them in the Arlington PAP.

Meh, not that big a deal. Thats what power tools are for. Sawsall, angle grinder, drill. And yes.......I happen to have a fire extinguisher close by Caboob, I will have seats that will feel mucho better than STi seats You know how it is with old guys and bad backs, you're half way there.

I put Legacy LS seat in my 95 Imp, direct bolt up. The passenger seat is a little tight tho, it doesnt like sliding.

Welcome to the USMB, and to the frustrating and sometimes rewarding world of the Subaru RX I run Premium in mine, but only because of the mods. Normally in stock form, you can run Regular. If you have a real low octane where your at, and you're running regular right now, this may be why you're hearing the ticking. But not being able to hear the sound in person, its hard to tell. The 88 owners manual will work fine, all RX coupes are the same. The oil leaks are common. Most likely from the front crank seal and front cam seals. Its a straight forward job. Do you know if the timing belts have been replaced? Normally they need replacing before 60K, but I have heard (in rare cases) of them going further. The engine is a non-interference engine, so if they do break, no harm will be done. But I always keep a spare set in the back. Seeing how you're in AZ, I would go thru the entire cooling system. Check/replace all the hoses that are dried out or cracked/weak. Check the radiator, if it looks like theres any junk floating around, flush and keep a eye on the temps. This is the major common problem with this engine. Its very sensitive to heat. The most common result is head gasket failure. For more info, search for threads/posts under my S/N or go to the retrofit forum. And pay no heed to GD :-p

I hope to get it on a dyno before WCSS11. Butt dyno tells me 130whp. I had 100 before the turbo upgrade. And its a CCR block with less than 20K on it now. I would have to drop alot more $ into it to get more and thats not going to happen. I know when its time to quit. But I would love to get another one and do a full EJ swap like Russ is doing.

I've been running 12lbs of boost for a year now, with no EMS. Stock injectors. Stock fuel pump. TD04 and TMIC. It runs cool as a ice maker when the fans are hooked up.