Turbone

When they do that to me, I just go berserk. Really, I'm not kidding. I grab the engine and get very physical with it. But thats when I do the engine pull, not a tranny pull. Well, today I did a tranny swap on my 89 XT6. Dropped the old and installed another. I've been dreading this for a couple of weeks and have been going thru the motions in my head. It never seams to work out that way tho. I managed to get a comealong above the car to hoist the front of the tranny, but with a XT you dont need to remove the shifter etc. Just the rod and brace under the car. So I couldnt hold up the rear of the tranny. I pulled my floor jack under the car and then laying on my back I lifted the end of the tranny up and braced it with a block. Lots of sweat and swearing here. I lifted the tranny some more with the rdnk hoist and then got back under the car and pushed the floorjack under the tranny. I started lifting it all, but when I got the bellhousing close to the engine I was having a problem getting the bottom studs into the holes. Usually not a problem and I fought it for a 1/2hr. I then realized that the hoist was pulling the tranny against the engine and binding up. So I had to back that off and lift the rear up more. Also lifted the front of the engine so it would help line up better. Once I got the bottom studs in everything went together real smooth. Just to pull and replace took me over 4hrs. I still need to hook up the driveline and some stuff in the engine bay. And yeah, I'm definitely getting to old for this My redneck hoist....and no, I would never try and lift a engine with this.

Now that you have been here for a little bit, I will say it. Go to the Off Road forum and do a search. Everything you want to know about lifting a Soob is there.

Then it could be close by. They obviously stole it for transportation. I would be out driving around, looking for it. If you do find it, call the police immediately. Do not get in and drive away.

Then it could be close by. They obviously stole it for transportation. I would be out driving around, looking for it. If you do find it, call the police immediately. Do not get in and drive away.

A week is a long time. Hopefully some tweakers got it and its sitting somewhere waiting to be found. Otherwise its parted out.

A week is a long time. Hopefully some tweakers got it and its sitting somewhere waiting to be found. Otherwise its parted out.

Well, I tried some more boost the other day. Kicked it up to 14lbs and got no predet. But I did get fuel cut Probably a good thing tho I think this is where I stop. I cant afford to put more money into the engine side. It needs paint and some other things I want to do. Its still quick and fun to drive and reliable. But I have other projects to get to. I'll get a dyno run done in the next few months to see what its actually putting out. I had 100whp before all the mods.

Timing info is on the underside of the hood. The green connector under the steering column needs to be connected to time it. Your temps are getting into the danger zone, especially for a turbo. Dont push it until you get the new rad installed.

Damn GD, quit being so negative with the EA/ER engines. The heads can handle it, theres never been a problem with them. Its the head gaskets. My last EA82T that grenaded was due to loosing a piece of the piston ring landing. Pre det killed it, and that can happen to any engine. If he stays conservative with the boost, he wont have any problems with keeping things stock. A fresh EA82T can safely run 12lbs of boost, with no upgrades to the fuel management system. Over torque the heads by 10lbs and use the spray on copper gasket sealer on them. Make sure the cooling system is in top shape. The XT6 radiators cant be found on the market, so make sure yours in good shape. Personally, I would go with a TD04 turbo. Its been installed on lots of EA82T's with good results. Your going to have to be creative with a IC tho. Theres little (zero) room on top, so you may have to go front or side mount.

http://www.rockauto.com

Brastrus1 did a Sami frame swap on a Hatch. You may have to extend the frame, you wont know till you measure the wheelbase for both.

You might be able to figure that out with a tape measure.

The easiest way to remedy that problem.............is to get another one!

Yup, that what was done. When it dries I'll patch the floor back up. Thats going to be fun

Found the leak. Looks like the morons that installed the under light kit thought it would be a good idea to run stuff under the rear seat. So to secure it, they ran a screw into the floor. Once they realized their mistake, they removed the screw. Which of course, caused the major leak. So now I know why they got rid of it Dont worry about the floor. This is a Rally X car, not a DD. I'll button it all back up (no welding) and make sure it doesnt leak. But what a PITA

I installed mine before the radiator(in line). Havent had any issues yet and have put some cruises on it. Its not big and it sits inside the drivers fender well, with the liner cut/vented for air flow. The manual I have is from the AT Service Group. Its a very detailed manual for rebuilders.

I wasnt relating his problems with the tranny cooler. I mentioned it because he said he was going to install one. And yes, it makes a difference on how the tranny operates. For it to operate correctly, the fluids need to be in a specific temp range(122deg-176deg). If its too cool, its not going to shift smoothly. I dont understand how you think the age of the fluid wouldnt affect the operation of the tranny? Especially with a bunch of junk flaoting around in it. I've had 4 Subaru's with the 4EAT in them and so far, 2 are garbage. I hope to have better luck with the other 2. Pat, I have a tech manual specifically for the 4EAT, your welcome to borrow it anytime.

Theres been lots of discussion on the SVX board on whether the flush is a good idea or not, It could loosen some debris and clog the internals, etc. What is a good idea is to change the filter and replace the fluids. Also check to see if it has the in-line filter. Its down on the left frame rail by the wheel well. Its a replaceable item. Mine also has a bad clunk when you put it in reverse only. And it only does it when cold. I thought it might be a tranny mount, but I havent had time to crawl under and check And theres been some discussion about a tranny cooler for us in the PNW. Some say it isnt necessary because of cooler temps. I installed one anyway.

Then you need to convert your hubs to 5 lug. If you do a search, you will find alot of info about it.

Facing the engine its the left front cylinder.

You could do it the old fashioned way. Pull #1 spark plug and rotate the crank until you feel the air being pushed out of the cylinder. You can see/feel the piston when its at the top. Should be within a few degrees.

Ok, I pulled the intake of the risers today and the gaskets were trashed. I had some spares and got it back together soon after. It runs like it did before the swap Better throttle response and hits redline fast Now I just need to figure out a few of the vac lines for the heater, diff lock, etc

Pics?

Hey, I have a extra cargo cover now. You can hide that monstrosity in the back :-p

That Hatch could really move! I wish I had that power. Yeah I know.........EJ it and I will