Turbone

Well, reviving a old thread......for a good reason. Picked up another SVX in my fav color. I have another hood, off the Claret, that I'm in the process of painting. Then I can strip this one down to bare metal and repaint it. So now I own 3 92 SVX's. One is for parts, one will be for sale (Teal) after I do a engine swap and a few other things. And I'm keeping the black one....of course:-p

Whats the bed mat from? My 84 needs one really bad.

I would love to get a sled and ride again but.........I spend all my money on Soobs:rolleyes:

Anything older than 95 is self greasing...............if you know what I mean:-p

Dealer?

Ed asked me to repost this. It was in my photo album. Could we get a Mod to put this in the USRM?

Yeah, thats a little pricey. Maybe someone on the west side here can find one in one of the local PAPs?(post in the Wanted Forum)

ATF///MMO will get you the same results. If its still a tickin then the oil pump needs a reseal. You can buy the gasket and seal from the Dealer for around $25.

As far as I know, theres no difference with a EA82 drum brake valve and a disc brake valve. I say go for it and dont mess with it.

It sounds like my stock EA82T:rolleyes: I think our problem is a leak somewhere in the intake piping. Check all your connections for air leaks. Next check would be the TPS (throttle position sensor). I dont have all the values in front of me right now, but I need to get them out of the FSM to check my TPS.

I'm a fan of all cycle art. Thats a very fine example. I think that more time and effort was spent in getting the engine and driveline figured out. Wonder if thats a Ford I4? And yeah, the shroud for the radiator could have been a little more thought out. But in all, a cool piece of work. And I think Tess is only partially correct in her comment. Who's to say that skeleton isnt a Feme Fatale?:-p Some of you may remember a posting I made a few years back;) Sorry for the H/J:-p

Have you tried posting for help in a Toyota Corolla forum? This is a Subaru forum:rolleyes:

Yeah, its basically the same FT4wd with diff lock. They never had a dual range in the XT6 (or XT). If you wanted to swap your axles, then go ahead and get a 5spd D/R, dont forget the 3.9 rear diff.

I'm not positive, but I think the SVX is the heaviest. It sure feels like a tank. 3525 lbs

More impressive on the trail. Hint, hint;)

If you cant afford aftermarket stuff, then theres no sense in getting a Sammi. Their platform is ok to build from, but IMHO, the engine isnt the greatest.

What grade and brand of oil are you using? I use Castrol only and have 10-40 in the turbo's and 20-40 in the NA's. Another and better oil additive would be MMO. It helps condition internals a little better than ATF.

You mean the guy that started this thread didnt even show up?

Ok, let me rephrase that. The mating surface cannot be smooth or to rough:rolleyes: If you look at the stock mating surfaces, you can see the mill marks on them. When you have a head shaved/milled, etc, you end up with a surface that is OEM(supposed to). If you clean the surface(s), you should not use abrasives(sanders, anglegrinders, etc). But I cant see how using scotchbrite pads will take off enough of the surface to cause low spots. I did make the mistake of being to aggresive with a pad on my little angle grinder and paid for that. I had the heads milled soon after and learned from that mistake. But I have used a scotchbrite pad by hand and have had no problems with sealing since. I will try to be more discriptive/detailed in my postings in the future;)

Gearing makes the biggest difference for offroad. Even with my Weber powered EA81, I'm still able to climb some pretty gnarly stuff. And do it without breaking my rig (cept for the occasional axle). And now that I have the 4.11 front and rear diffs, it climbs very well. I'm still getting used to the setup, its hard to break old habits. Point and stomp on the go pedal isnt necessary anymore. If I ever do a EJ swap, this would be a awesome rig. But I dont think it would/could compare with the "other" made to 4X rigs out there

Why would it be different? All alum mating surfaces, regardless of year should be the same. I've been told by a couple of shops that alum mating surfaces need to be rough so the gasket material seals properly.

Give the lifters a little time to pump back up before using the ATF. Once its warmed up to operating temp, rev the engine to 3k for 15/30sec and see if the tick goes away. If it comes down to using the ATF, you need to drain a qt of oil and add a qt of ATF. Run it for a couple hundred miles, or until the tick goes away.

Decking the block isnt usually necessary, I've never heard of a Subaru block thats been warped. What could be the problem is the head bolts. The holes should be cleaned out prior to re-installing. I spray them out with brake cleaner then run the bolts (oiled) in and out a few times to make sure they seat all the way. When they milled the heads, did they say anything about cracks between the valves? Its only a problem if they go up into the exhaust port, where the water jacket is.

Make sure you mount it vertically, it might last a little longer. But no guarentees. MSD is a better aftermarket coil, I've been running one on my RX for a while now with no problems.

I forgot you bought Jims XT6:rolleyes: The tranny issue could be the clutch also. Some of this might be resolved by talking to Jim. He might be able to tell you more about the previous maintenance done to it. The brakes might need a bleeding, it surely cant hurt to do it. And I think Bucky is going to donate some of its organs in the near future:-p