Turbone

Skip is correct, I should have said a good electronics cleaner. Altho the carb cleaner wont leave a residue and evaporates, it might be to harsh. Its a flapper door maf, not a hot wire maf. Its not that sensitive.

I'm not going to bash the other makes or say how great Subaru's are for offroading, but I do visit other boards too. And I see all the other rigs there that have catastophic breakdowns on the trail. If you wheel it hard enough, its going to break, no matter what you own. If its been built poorly, its going to break. If it has old parts on it, its going to break. If you cant drive it, or pick the right line, its going to break. Now, for what its worth... Subaru's for offroading is cheap. If you dont go hogwild and go with a t-case and straight axle, yada yada.. Its fun. Its alot of fun to embarass the other more capable rigs on the trail, if you know what your doing. If you like to see people almost break thier necks when you drive by and wonder what your driving, then a modified Subaru is the ticket. But they all break, sooner or later. Maybe a Soob will do it more often. But if you know what your doing, it just might last a little longer before something does break.

Use some carb cleaner and wipe it down. Thats about it.

The wastegate only opens when the boost goes over 7psi. You probably have a loose vac line somewhere like nipper said. Make sure all the clamps are tight and the intake box is clamped also. Check the pressure switch unit up by the passenger side firewall. This operates the turbo light.

Try a reinforced hose. If you cant find one, use a coat hanger and coil it up. Might be a PITA (probably is, never done it myself:-p ) But that will keep it from collapsing. Theres some stuff out called "Wetter Water". I've heard good things about it, but again, I've never used it. Once I get my XT6 running, I'll be using some. Its a warm runner also.

Probably no material left on the brake pads. A note here when installing new pads. Rotate the caliper piston clockwise, do not compress with a clamp.

The digi and analog are the same. They both use a pressure switch located on the passenger side strut tower. Its a dual purpose switch, sending a signal to the ECU telling it to increase injector duration when boost increases. At 1psi it sends a signal to the light on the dash.

The ECU and the engine wiring harness would be the only changes needed.

If the guy says it runs ok, then it might have issues. Twist his arm to get more info, seriously. You dont want a turbo thats having issues unless you know what your getting into. They arent all that rare, the EA82T was made from 85 to 91(?). It mosy likely has the 5spd with pushbutton single range 4wd. Hard to get into reverse? Could be a clutch adjustment, could be tranny issue. If its a GL-10, then it has the upgraded interior. With a straight body and a engine with issues, I wouldnt be paying more than $500. Maybe less. Gas mileage varies. If you have a heavy foot, which a lot of turbo owners do (me included) then expect the mileage to be much less than average. And the problems indicated by others is what your looking at when you own a 80's Subaru turbo. But dont let this scare you off. If you can get a good deal on it and if you think its worth it, it can be a fun car.

Mmmm, dont think so. I look at every wagon in the yards I go to, specifically for those shocks. I have only found one set on a 86 (I think) in the last couple of years. Matter of fact, I think I need to look at the RX thats in the yard right now to see if theres a set on it. My 89 didnt have them:-\ Btw, we are talking rear shocks, right?

I'll see if I can find it again.

Thats from a magazine article in Oz, read it a couple years ago. Actual article is older that that, I think its almost 8yrs ago. I had a coupe the exact color with 13"Enkies and a Weber. That was one quick coupe. Called it Goldmember:rolleyes:

Offer them $100. Its got to be worth at least that much.

Crank pulley slipping under a load? Timing correct? Clutch ok on the A/C?

3M or JCWhitney, just off the top of my head.

Right. Big difference between 7.4:1 and 9.5:1 comp ratio. The reason mine is so low is because of the cheap MBC I installed. It went full boost more than once and I only had it on for a day and a half. The headgasket was bent in 2 places, so I can imagine what the rings look like now:rolleyes: So Marc, if this is what you want, keep using that MBC:-p

You did read the sticky at the top of the page? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=62289 And why would you put 13's on a chevy lug wheel?

No, because nobody runs a welded front diff(or a locked one). Luckily I blow the CV cups before the stub axle goes. Its a quicker fix;)

Could be that the grounds are corroded. Go around and check/clean them.

Heh, we'll make a body man out of you yet:headbang:

I think you may need the trailing arms. They hold the races/bearings for the axle stubs. The manual isnt showing much on the 2wd arm, but shows detail on the 4wd.

Gloyale has the right approach to this, pretty much what I learned in class. Be nice to have it on a rack tho. I had a 84 turbo wagon that was just like this. Concrete jersey barrier at 45mph. It fubared the battery tray and the crumple zone was compressed some. Lots of hammering while pressure is applied is the way to pull the metal back. You might need to use the angle iron piece for a new core support, but that would just make it better than original, eh?

If you want your rear jacked up, find some rear adjustable shocks. Came on some GL-10/RX models.

NGK plugs are OEM. 99% of the folks here will tell you to use NGK also. And no, a exhaust leak shouldnt effect the idle. A vacume leak will tho.

Well, hopefully you wont have to order 2 sets. One 2wd and one 4wd:rolleyes: