Turbone

Trying to get a quick run setup for EC tomorrow. I know its kind of short notice, but I just got my Hatch ready for the trail again and want to do a shake down run. Hopefully without breaking anything! Dont want to have to wrench on it again right before the show. I'm already doing another engine swap on my RX before the show:rolleyes:

Certainly a plus to help out the local economy.

Thats kinda why I mentioned using a turbo. It would be the rolling version of a microwave oven:grin:

You forgot to post the link;)

He was asking me if I still had any rear disc brakes, said he lost his and hit a curb....to avoid hitting a car:rolleyes: As to what was wrong with it, he didnt say.

Connie, I thought I included all the bolts for the job:-\ I'm sorry if I forgot/lost some. I'm just keeping the circle going here. Someone did something like this for me last year (cept I wasnt in dire need, thanks again Matt) and in return he said do the same for someone else if you get a chance. I shipped a set of rear disc to AU about a month ago and yes, shipping was pricey. But it might be considerably less for SA. If your interested PM me your mailing address and I will get you a shipping quote. And no, the front and rear brake pads are quite different in size.

Yeah yeah yeah. You were probably cussing a blue streak cause of all the packing popcorn in the box. And I included used brake pads to boot:rolleyes: Now get Bucky back on the road so you can work on Rocky;) I did this in part because I failed to get your other stuff shipped prior to Carlisle:-\ Thats coming soon, I'm just having problems finding something to box a huge door panel in:-p Oh, and your welcome:cool:

This would probably work better on a turbo model. All you would need to do is have a hot plate that would sit on top of the turbo. I'm sure it would cook things quite well;)

What about EC tomorrow?:cool:

I got a PM a few days ago from the kid saying he got the car running. This post might not be relavent now.

Skip is correct, I should have said a good electronics cleaner. Altho the carb cleaner wont leave a residue and evaporates, it might be to harsh. Its a flapper door maf, not a hot wire maf. Its not that sensitive.

I'm not going to bash the other makes or say how great Subaru's are for offroading, but I do visit other boards too. And I see all the other rigs there that have catastophic breakdowns on the trail. If you wheel it hard enough, its going to break, no matter what you own. If its been built poorly, its going to break. If it has old parts on it, its going to break. If you cant drive it, or pick the right line, its going to break. Now, for what its worth... Subaru's for offroading is cheap. If you dont go hogwild and go with a t-case and straight axle, yada yada.. Its fun. Its alot of fun to embarass the other more capable rigs on the trail, if you know what your doing. If you like to see people almost break thier necks when you drive by and wonder what your driving, then a modified Subaru is the ticket. But they all break, sooner or later. Maybe a Soob will do it more often. But if you know what your doing, it just might last a little longer before something does break.

Use some carb cleaner and wipe it down. Thats about it.

The wastegate only opens when the boost goes over 7psi. You probably have a loose vac line somewhere like nipper said. Make sure all the clamps are tight and the intake box is clamped also. Check the pressure switch unit up by the passenger side firewall. This operates the turbo light.

Try a reinforced hose. If you cant find one, use a coat hanger and coil it up. Might be a PITA (probably is, never done it myself:-p ) But that will keep it from collapsing. Theres some stuff out called "Wetter Water". I've heard good things about it, but again, I've never used it. Once I get my XT6 running, I'll be using some. Its a warm runner also.

Probably no material left on the brake pads. A note here when installing new pads. Rotate the caliper piston clockwise, do not compress with a clamp.

The digi and analog are the same. They both use a pressure switch located on the passenger side strut tower. Its a dual purpose switch, sending a signal to the ECU telling it to increase injector duration when boost increases. At 1psi it sends a signal to the light on the dash.

The ECU and the engine wiring harness would be the only changes needed.

If the guy says it runs ok, then it might have issues. Twist his arm to get more info, seriously. You dont want a turbo thats having issues unless you know what your getting into. They arent all that rare, the EA82T was made from 85 to 91(?). It mosy likely has the 5spd with pushbutton single range 4wd. Hard to get into reverse? Could be a clutch adjustment, could be tranny issue. If its a GL-10, then it has the upgraded interior. With a straight body and a engine with issues, I wouldnt be paying more than $500. Maybe less. Gas mileage varies. If you have a heavy foot, which a lot of turbo owners do (me included) then expect the mileage to be much less than average. And the problems indicated by others is what your looking at when you own a 80's Subaru turbo. But dont let this scare you off. If you can get a good deal on it and if you think its worth it, it can be a fun car.

Mmmm, dont think so. I look at every wagon in the yards I go to, specifically for those shocks. I have only found one set on a 86 (I think) in the last couple of years. Matter of fact, I think I need to look at the RX thats in the yard right now to see if theres a set on it. My 89 didnt have them:-\ Btw, we are talking rear shocks, right?

I'll see if I can find it again.

Thats from a magazine article in Oz, read it a couple years ago. Actual article is older that that, I think its almost 8yrs ago. I had a coupe the exact color with 13"Enkies and a Weber. That was one quick coupe. Called it Goldmember:rolleyes:

Offer them $100. Its got to be worth at least that much.

Crank pulley slipping under a load? Timing correct? Clutch ok on the A/C?

3M or JCWhitney, just off the top of my head.