Turbone

The HID projector mod. We all know that the GL/Loyale lights are not the brightest setup around. When I did my EJ swap I got about a 20% increase improvement from the updated charging system, but I wanted more. For about 5-6mo I contemplated and researched, looking at all the styles in current OEM systems. I was hoping I could make a factory system work, but nothing matched the GL bucket (go figure). Then as my luck would have it, Mr Brat had a set of projectors he got off Ebay and decided to go a different route. I purchased the set from him and the real work began. No, these are not 7 colors and are 6K bulbs. I first had to find out how the projectors would fit in the buckets, so I had to separate the lens from the bucket. I did this the same way the new gen guys do their plastic headlights, put it in the oven......300deg for 25min. It worked ok. The sealant, being over 20yrs old, is a pita to pull apart. I cracked on lens trying to separate it, mostly because I didnt heat it long/hot enough. Then you need to clean off all the old stuff, another pita. The projectors fit perfect. My main concern was that they might be to long and I would have zero clearance with the glass. In order for projectors to work, you need a clear surface. The ridges on the inside of the OEM lenses are designed for 9004 halogen bulbs and to refract the light coming out, so it had to be ground smooth. I was planing on making a completely different lens at first, removing the glass and replacing it with plexi. I experimented with heating and forming, but it was hit and miss without the proper equipment. My other option was to grind and polish the glass lens. I did a bunch of internet research on it and decided to give it a try. I had some glass polishing pads and polish I got from Griot's Garage and 3-4 different grits of 3M sanding disc. I used my cordless drill for starters. I made a circle that was somewhat bigger than the projector and got to work. It was very slow going as I didnt want to overheat the glass and crack it. I did start with a old headlight, I didnt want to ruin what I had on my car as they are the best I've found to date. I used a squirt bottle of water to keep things cool and went from the glass polish to eventually using rubbing compound. This got the heavy scratches and glaze off, then I had to use finer compounds like Mequires. When I thought I had it clear enough I assembled it all and put it on the car for a test run. As you can see, theres quite a difference. So now that I knew it would work, I had to make things faster/easier. As it was, I was spending hours grinding and polishing. I'm serious......polishing these lenses - without screwing them up - takes a long time, I have at least 8-10hrs of work in each lens. If it wasnt for the drill press it would have taken forever and I probably would have given up. I had a old Craftsman drill press (that I've used once and its been on my patio for over 10yrs), so I drug that out and set it up. This cut at least a day or two off the job. The process at work. Besides the time involved with the glass, it was a pretty simple job. Wiring is standard HID stuff, but I decided not to have the halo (blue) on with the running lights. I will wire it separate and use a switch - for show purposes (maybe). Now that the projectors are done, heres were I make things over the top These arent the projectors, obviously. Hmmm, what do we have here? LED strands. Very simple and easy to install......anywhere. If you look at one of the pics above, you will see that I removed the turn signals in the bumper and replaced them with driving lights (can never have enough light for my old eyeballs). So I had to relocate the turn signals up the corner lights. I had extra LED's (when buying, you need more than what it takes. A strand can be cut every 3rd LED). So it wasnt really that hard to make them work as signals.

The EJ swap. Stats: 89 RX with fulltime D/R tranny/diff lock. Tranny adapter from Rgyver. Using XT6 flywheel drilled out to mate to EJ engine. Had a few issues with original EJ install, had to reclaim old engine. This is the install. Heres a few pics of the work I did this round. Stripped the intake and cleaned it Cut off the heatshields around the headers. Had to on one side, just to get the nuts off the head Cut off the mounting points for them, ground them down and sprayed with hi temp paint. Almost ready Also had a broken engine mount, got that fixed.

These are from the EA82T years and the many looks the car had over the years.

Edit** I went back and found the original thread I started when I got my RX. Didnt realize its been its been this long, what a journey. I'm combining some other threads to this about my upgrades and stuff. I'll go back later and add the links to the original threads for reference. The beginning: After a year of waiting and hoping the owner wouldnt sell it to someone else or fix and drive it, I finally got the car I've been wanting. Black 89 RX Full Time 4wd with diff lock, LSD rear end, rear disc, etc. These are the beginning shots. As it progresses I'll be taking more pics. The engine was ran out of oil, so its got "some" issues. The thing got so hot, it melted the rear bumper around the exhaust pipe. I've already got the motor to replace it, and a spider intake also. So, what do ya'll think? Is it a keeper?

Run Marvel Mystery Oil through it. If that doesnt work, try ATF fluid.

Someday.......it will be mine again

WRX rails, preferably the year you got the injectors from. You best bet for info for the early turbo Legacy's is over at http://bbs.legacycentral.org/ http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=48913&p=376688&hilit=WRX+injectors#p376688

Hill holder usually works on 1 front tire and 1 rear tire. Wheels wont bind without a load most likely. But I can see your point with the HH, hope its correct.

Most of the newer Subaru's have no plate showing gear ratio. You may have to remove the cover and count teeth, or remove both axles (quite easy) and see if it still binds. Also cutting the cable to the hill holder should not effect anything, mines been disconnected for a quite a while. It would take a pinched brake line or the lever jammed closed to cause it to lock up the wheels. But then it would not matter if the car was jacked up or not (you said it free wheeled when in the air). I vote for different gear ratios.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=116818

Wait, are you saying the car was in a wreck previously? This could change everything and make Subaru not liable for any problems this car has now.

Make your own thread in this forum and set something up.

Luckily, the place I work at are participants at the show

Re-do the compression test on that cylinder, this time hold the throttle wide open.

No guessing that way

Mine has been wired like that for about 4yrs now, no issues. And I'm running a Walbro pump now.

It could be a grounding issue with the FP. Run a separate ground from the pump to the chassis and see if it runs. I had to do this with my 89 RX a few years ago.

Any 5x100 wheel will fit, as long as the offset isnt to much.

I would probably take it to a shop and have it done. Its not difficult, it just takes a special gauge to do it.

I suggest doing a leak down test on that cylinder. That will tell you if its the valves or piston/rings.

Air suspension wasnt even available (USDM) for that year I dont believe. Did a check and air was available that year.......learn something new everyday. Or forget something

Need to fix your pic link please.

Awesome....see you sometime in Aug!

I think I saw that on ebay, or some other auto trader site a few years ago. I believe its just a wagon that was chopped.