Turbone

What might have happened was you lost some prime in one of the hyd lifters. Give it some time and see if it quits ticking. As for the low oil pressure, its quite common for the pressure to drop to almost zero on the analog gauges. But it does depend on the oil pump on how high it will get. If you can handle the hassle of removing the pump again, I would do it just to check the seals.

Got you covered on the permit Galen, and Mike too if you want one. That means I will have 2 left. If you dont make it up there this Saturday, I will still sell them to anyone that wants one.

The swap will work, but its very labor intensive. If you have the donar car get the clutch pedal and cable(or whole box), the strut rod caps (the plates that the stab bar from lower A-Arm bolts to on the body), the tranny mount and all the linkage. If you swap to a 4wd, you need the complete rear driveline and suspension, along with the front suspension. EA81 axles are the same except for the diameter. 4wd axles are thicker.

This is what a nice one looks like, in a Maz.....

You might try Ebay or do a Google search. I think most of us that get a cover usually go for the rug.

I went out with a flashlight and looked right after his post. Its the only one there, not hard to see at all. I will pull it off and inspect everything tomorrow. I still need to finish that @#$% front bumper, headlight bucket, and hood replacement.

So the tire still isnt hanging with posi camber, its still neg? Something just isnt right here.........

Where is the sensor located? I havent got my FSM from my Ebay win yet, so I not real familiar with my XT6 yet. And mine has been dieing when its warm and coasting. It dies, you turn the key off then back on, and it starts agian with no problem. Sometimes when you come to a stop, the idle drops way down and wants to die then too. Pump the gas a little and it stops doing it. But I tell you what I am getting real familiar with. My original front bumper is a little rough, so I got one from the PAP. It was easy in the yard, most of it was already disconnected by somebody else But I tell you what, this thing is the biggest PITA I have ever dealt with on a Soob. The bolts on the side skirt are darn near impossible to get to. Sorry for the HJ, had to rant :-\

Cant seem to find the one with your Mom leaning against it either. It does look like a FF1 tho.

My wife was looking thru a box of about 1000 pics and came across a couple of my first Soob. Got it in 92 or 93 from a local dealership (Ford & Mazda). Kept it for 3yrs until I needed a truck for work. The only problem I ever had with it was a stripped out hub spline. And 2 speeding tickets 82 GLF, 5spd, PW and black

My old EA81T ran fine on regular, I think thats 89? Make sure you have the timing set accurately. Might check the gap on the sparkplugs also.

You may want to post this again over in the Marketplace. And btw, your motor is a 1.8.

Why dont you go out and count them?

The only other thing I can think of to check then is the trailing arm, to see if its straight or not. The shock is ok, I assume?

You might want to jack the car up and see if the rear bearings are not loose. I'm not positive, but I dont think the rear is adjustable.

You will have to disconnect the computer then because it will try and over ride the inputs that you are giving it. Then you have more problems because then you have nothing telling the compressor to start and fill the tank. The solenoids are one way btw. When you open the air goes in and out. I think your making it more complicated by trying to manually adjust them individualy. Does the system work correctly now? And why would you want to do this?

I dont know if it was my post or not, but I've done it recently. Bought the hardware at Napa, its just a air shock line kit. Comes with the Schrader valve, you need 2 kits tho. Unless you can find/make a tee with a schrader on it. You need to cut the air lines between the compressor and the solenoids, the 2 lines for the front shocks on one valve and the same for the rears. It can all be done at the left shock tower. Now you need to pull the big black flat connector loose so you can get to it. There are 4 wires that control the solenoids on each shock. Drivers side front is black-green Pass side front is yellow-green Drivers side rear is yellow-blue Pass side rear is green-white. These are all on one side of the connector and easy to see. What you need to do is wire these to a switch to grnd, this will open them to fill the shocks. I wired the fronts together and the rears together, that way I filled the fronts together equally, the same for the rears. But after all the work and money I spent doing this, they still leaked! The whole system was shot, even the body of the solenoids were leaking. I replaced o-rings and went thru everything but still had problems. So today I finished installing the rear coilovers on it. The fronts I did last week. No more problems :cool: If your system is in good condition this is an option, but it really doesnt fix it.

Thats spot on. I think everyone here(almost) thats bought re-man have had them go out right away or soon after. If you think you have the original axles or OEM axles, KEEP them. Replace the boot(s) and run them till they fall off.

Thanks for repeating what I already said Baja

Wish I would have seen this when you posted it. I talked to him quite abit at the show, and got his biz card too.

Yup, 2wd and 4wd axles are different in size. You can use a 2wd in a pinch with no problems on the road.

That was Jerry-bratsrus1. bratsrus1

At your service

My 92 Mazda has this setup and I've taken it out on occasion with the HP and its gone where they have (dents included). Isnt the reason for more lift(more than 4in?) in a solid rear axle setup is the room needed for the T-Case?

Where are you getting them from Tex?