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Well John, I guess we are all suppose to know this "Awagon" is your 1992 Pontiac Lemans station wagon, If so ???? If it just happens to be a 198? Subaru the front and rear wipers do not both go through the timer module. Only the front and the front washer do. They both do operate off of fuse #16 but the power to both is shared by both washer pumps. General Motors is known for poor switch gear though? Sorry I couldn't help.

Another option is .... this company sells frame "caps" for our gen Subarus You take them to a body shop and have them weld them in. Removing the carpet might be a wise idea Hope this helps Subaru body parts

Eq if you mean the front drive axle please read this post. drive axle removal

Dave, I don't know if your car has an 02 sensor and therefore an ECU. But when shopping for a carb you may want to watch for the feedback type Hitachi's. The mix and match of using one on a car not equiped with the duty solenoids could prove frustrating. I do believe they were prevalent in CA

Jim good luck on the swap out if you give it ago And my apologies to BBS for the crack, sometimes when threads get this long it gets hard to read every post - your welcome and I'm sorry.

Mark since you have the fan running you have your hot feed already. Use a test light to find out which one it is. The thermoswitch is in the rad, has one single pin (you do not say so I'm guessing EA81 Hatch??) This single pin goes to ground when the thermno switch closes. The one wire that is the hot feed is left connected to one wire on the fan. The other wire to the fan goes to the pin on the thermoswitch. The rad must have a ground strap to the core support. Hope this explains it well enough. If you want to add a relay (recommended) please email me

To add to Scotts excellent reply the remote filter is also a nice safegaurd. These hoses have been known to spew oil in cases of bad PCV valves When I fit my Weber I added a filter for this purpose.

Mike thanks for the pict. I was confusing Scotts pict of the IDF (which looks to have one throttle shaft) With Big Jim's comment on the DGAS. Aren't the barrels on your DGAS progressive, like on a DG*V? Big Jim says "both barrels open up at the same time " this statement and the throttle shaft orientation is why I confused the two.

Here is an idea, I mounted this with just a couple small holes in the pading. The entire top is velco'd on for access. Moved the trip pooter display out to the panel and all the wiring goes through it's hole. Top of the panel is now the parcel shelf. For a through hole in the bulkhead, look above the throttle pedal and toward the center of the vehicle. There is one there. Hope this helps

Very sweet bit of kit, mate Couple questions, the rad expansion tank, is it plumbed into where the heater hoses normally connect? (outlet/inlet?) Kind of hard to see. What vehicle is it from? grand idea that, BTW and how do you get the hood closed? Clearance looks a bit tight. Thanks for posting the picts

Zoix! Jim that DGAV must have a monster accel pump?? Any thing like size of the pump on a DCOE? You wouldn't happen to have a used model in the shop would you?

Another thing you must consider is the support bracket for the MAF. As the airbox now is the mounting support. I use a flat plate of Al with a 90 deg break formed lip and bolt it to the frame below the MAF. Scott's idea of the AL flashing or other partition is an excellent sugg. The rad fan blows directly into this area. The inner fender opening can be opened by removing the muffler under the plastic inner liner.

Here is a trick you can use on any distributor with mechanical (aka centrifugal) advance. Try and turn the rotor. It will turn a little bit in one direction and none in the other. The direction it turns is the direction it rotates in the engine.

4by4 since you give no vehicle I'll take a stab at it being your AMC Eagle?? All seriousness aside are you aware of the fact that the driver's side window and only the driverside window is controlled through a control unit? This is how it accomplishes the power up/down feature. You may want to try a boneyard model of this unit. Where is it mounted ?? well in an Eagle it's.....Try under the pass seat

Subi, very clean instal, looks factory. I made a smaller plate and mounted my boost gage, A/F ratio, and digital voltmeter The problem I had was they hard too watch while driving. I remounted them in a A pillar pod and put not quite as often checked gages in it. ( trans temp, fuel pressure, and ammeter) A pillar pod mounts are available at Jegs.

Dave your Brat must have an 02 sensor, it may be the problem, the carb is controled by a set of duty solenoids also. These may have problems. and if you mean "Check engine" light when you say "ecs light was always on the error code is stored in the ECU. Why not retrieve the code and find out what is not to spec? ECU code retrieval instructions and code chart BTW most newer Brats do not have ECU's maybe because your's is an automatic or a CA model? You don't mean "erg" light by chance do you?

Check to make sure the anti-diesel solenoid is getting power and is not knackered. Replace the tstat, you may have a feedback carb controlled by an ECU and if the engine temp is not up to closed loop op temp it may be causing problems. Here is a forum dedicated to to the Justy http://subarujusty.proboards20.com/ Hope this helps

Doubtful BB BS53 will read this, but he is talking about an EA81 vehicle. The EA82 in question has no control valve and is a much different beast under the dash. Just thought you might want to know this before you go looking for this "valve"

Unless I'm Ray Charles the chart is missing the GL-10 I believe this is the rear sway bar deciding factor I base this guess on My 87 4 wd GL-10 turbo wagon has a rear anti sway bar My 87 4wd GL turbo wagon does not have the rear bar I had a carbed 4wd GL wagon - no bar

Rob it sure sounds like the positive cable and the negative cable are backward on the starter. There is a bolt on the back of the starter, this big cable must run to the + terminal of the battery. Could by chance you have this connected to the negative terminal? Please have another look at it and reply

I just blew a front CV joint boot on my EA82 turbo wagon, I have some new boots but they are for an EA81 CV. Anybody know for sure if they are not the same size? Thanks in advance for any help.

Doc, they are both EA82T IHI RHB5 units, one was just more "photogenic" on it's output side. Paul, the evelator buttons are one of the control panels that operate my home rigged CAP* roll-up garage door opener. * CAP = Cheap As Possible

You are correct EV means electric choke like most EA81 Hitachi's have. (Can't say about the real early models) AV means water heated chole, can be made to work with some plumbing changes

Gabe says "square" head lamp on the 81 Moosens says "round" in 81. could it be a DL GL type diff? Please look it up for me Paul. The edges are curved like for round head lamps. I hate to (well won't) butcher a NOS piece.

Al, you might want to take another look. They do come apart now, a very simple cleanable check valve shuttle arrangement. I have been using them for years and have never had a transisitor failure. First time for everything though. I have one on both motor coach gen sets and on my TR-3. Now your right, if it goes wolf out in the woods, yer stuck. I never tried to open a Suby pump in the woods or in my shop, but I don't carry a spare one of those either, for 30 bucks and Burt Rutan at my back, I may just throw one in my onboard emerg. stash. How about we go back to Lucas "whack it with a stick" pumps??