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Ed, to the best of my knowledge it is simply called a "vapor separator" I believe it is situated high in the engine compartment so that any vapor forming in the fuel line will rise into it and be diverted back to the fuel tank rather than form a "vapor lock" As I said, I have had it called a liquid diverter at a NAPA store, again diverting the liquid gas into the carb and the gas vapors back to the tank.

Moosey, my shipment is ITM (In The Mail) Please make my riding mate, a 22 year old, app 120 lb (20 lbs of you know what I like) and blind (you also have seen me) High Ho Silver

PM, I am going on the assumption you a) want to snag an OEM unit from a boneyard are wanting to install it in the vehicle in your sig. i.e. 88 GL As I am sure you know, aftermarket type CC units use the vacuum of the intake manifold to position the throttle. Subaru goes one step beyond, they have a vacuum pump instead of relying on the intake manifold vacuum. (This BTW makes them suitable for turbo charged cars where the intake manifold goes to positive pressures frequently) Here is a list of 2 B snagged The pump, this is located on the pass. side strut tower The brain, this located above the glove box The control on/off switch - in pod to left of gauge cluster The set/resume switch - steering wheel horn pad The throttle actuator- above throttle pedal The brake/clutch switch - above brake/clutch pedal The wiring harness - nightmare in pass. side inner fender, and across dash above HIVAC unit. Sorry to the best of my knowledge, they do not come "pre wired" atleast my 87 GL did not. The steering col. MAY have the wires for the set/resume though. Note: the brain gets it's vehicle speed input from the VSS incorporated in the speedometer head, you must locate this connection in the wire "jungle" under the dash. Much easier to just go to JC "Twit"ney (gotta be a "Twit" to buy from them, j/k) and get one. I am sure your NAPA store also sells aftermarket units. Sorry I couldn't be of more help, I do have the wiring diagram if you need it.

SM, what color is this wire? Blue? Sure sounds like a "new fix" to me. All mine have been working fine (for over a year in two cases) But I am always up for new fixes. Sorry I can not be of more help

SM, this problem is fairly common, esp this time of year. I will assume the car is a manual shift or the nuetral start switch if automatic is functioning as you say it clicks. I have had three Roo's of this vintage do exactly what you say. The ignition switch contacts get burned and do not pass enough current to totally close the starter solenoid. All three have been fixed by adding a relay controled by the ignition switch starter contacts. The relay is wired in at the starter solenoid and is very hard to see. Any 12v lighting relay can be used. Here is a wiring diagram if you would like to give this a try

Marck, the CRX dual pod is made by AutoMeter and is part number 20400 fitts 88-89 CRX. No modifications are necessary, it fits the contor of the A pillar and needs only double back tape or one screw for mounting. Samo's idea is fine if you are into laying up fiberglass and gelcoating, probably be cheaper to. HTH

Mitch, you have refered to "the book". Which manual is this? You now state "The hose i have right now that isn't connected to anything might be okay being left unconnected? You should connect this to the breather system as I noted. Then "The input to the wastegate solenoid still gets a direct signal from the manifold pressure so i'm wondering if it will work and if not, " This question is a bit confusing, looking back to your original post "The one in the back, to the wastegate" This is the input to the Waste Gate Duty Solenoid. It should not be connected to the waste gate, as I noted. It should be connected to the intake manifold pressure via the small nipple on the turbo outlet housing. You ask if I am not mistaken for the proper setup? This line is also confusing to me "what goes where hose is coming from on the manifold. " I would take a picture of the "on the car system but it would be hard to see what goes where, so I "mocked up" this to show you where the lines run Hope this helps

JoAnne, sorry to be the barer of bad tidings at this time of year, but you have a major undertaking on your hands. I did a search for "heater core" here is one post that sums it up http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=672&highlight=heater+core You might email Moosens directly to see if he did the nasty. I have a thought on doing a trick with stop leak, it is out lined in my post "Don't ya hate that smell" Please read some on using stop leak products in our entire coolant system. It is not recommended as the coolant passages in our rads is so small they tend to get plugged causing more headaches. Wish I could be of more help, McBrat's trick of cut and replace is for the EA81 series.

GD Just a qwikie to say thanks for the references. Jay The crank can be rotated in a clockwise direction with a 7/8" socket on a rachet placed on the crank bolt. If you find and set the dist. and there is still no "fire in the hole" (so to speak) you might want to do a compression check to make sure the cam timing is in order

Mitch, I am not the expert you are looking for but have several 87 turbo'd cars. and the FSM (Factory Service Manual) The FSM shows you have some lines incorrect. The rear of the Waste Gate Duty Solenoid, is the input and should be connected to the small nipple on the output side of the turbo. This provides the manifold pressure to the WGDS. On the front of the WGDS are two nipples as you describe. One sits ninty (90) degrees to the solenoid and one is straight out. The one at 90 degrees is the output and goes to the waste gate itself. The straight out nipple goes through a small resitrictor and to the Tee you mention. This Tee and its lines connect to varrious other soleniods and is nothing more than a "breather" system. It connects to the MAF to turbo large dia. rubber pipe and provides clean air for the connected solenoids when they are in the vent mode. Theory - at higher altitudes the ECU can vent, through the WGDS, some of the pressure which normally goes to the wastegate. This increases the boost pressure. Thus compensating for the power lost due to thinner air/02 content. If you want a picture of said connections please email me. P.S. It is very difficult to achieve enough exhaust flow at rest to make the turbo produce intake manifold pressure - please connect a pressure gauge and do this testing on the road. Hope this helps

XS, you say "I checked and there is no fuse' I ask this as my 89 FT4EAT has no fuse "holder" Some early models did not come equipped with the provision for putting them into 2WD. I looked all over mine with no joy- then I read some more. Did you find no fuse in the holder or no fuse holder? Which bring me to BushB's comment, my brain is lame I thought these said "FWD" but no doubt they said "2WD" on some models. I do know the addition of the fuse does force the car to ignore the VSS signals and run in 2 wd only. If you venture to the thread I posted or take a minute to do a search on the new gen board for "duty solenoid" or "binding" You will find this trick used to a) improve fuel economey (this is questioned) release the binding some FT4EAT cars expierence, by disconnecting the rear drive I do not have an owners manual, but I believe it is covered in it. XS, if you would like, I can find the color of the wires to the connector for DS C on an 89. By disconnecting it you can prove the brain is not to blame. I still need DS A, if you turn one, thanks

RiNo, looks like it could be a relay for connecting/disconnecting the brake lamp from the turn signal By chance do these lights share a globe for these two funtions?

Well done Erik, glad you got it fixed, thanks for the update

Good call Justy, that is exactly what it does. The AC control unit looks for pulses coming from the sensor, if they are not "up to speed" so to speak, it will shut down the system. This is a protection system -should the compressor lock up the electromagnetic clutch disengages before the belt can break. Hope this helps

Tom sounds/looks like a worthwhile trip and a nice find. On the no crank, my 85 did this when I got it, seemed the higher voltage of the jump would let it crank to start with the key, but with just it's own battery, mine would not crank. Mine turned out to be the ignition switch feed connecter. This pink six wire connector under the sterring col. had visible burn marks. I found this on McBrat's sug, and did as he suggested, put a jumper wire around the connection. Has not failed since. You sound like you have a handle on this one, but thought it may be one more place to check. Good luck on the conversion.

I have the CRX duel pod mount in both my turbo wagons, other gauge is my air/fuel ratio. I have an 87 CRX, took some measurements and thought it would fit. I had them mounted down below the radio where my fuel pressure, trans temp and ammeter is now, but it's much easier to see on the A pillar. I got mine from Summit Racing, will supply part number if you like I kinda like knowing whats going on under the bonnet and around me

Sir Psychotic Subathusiast, to use a trite expresso "you have mail"

Marck, glad it helped, sorry though, I doubt it is causing the problem, teflon tape probably could not stand up to the heat. If the hole was drilled and tapped to the SAE size, it should seal pretty well. I don't think it is time to look for another turbo because The leak in the cross over pipe - now that is serious business when making the turbine spool. The factory pipe is pretty restrictive to begin with and is covered with a heat shield - big leaks are not visible. As for the - ahem - mechanic, well any port in a storm but...there are limits. If it was a properly sized drill bit wise and threaded properly it could prove satisfactory (many head studs have been fixed this way. He no doubt did not have a "bottom tap". I'd start looking for another cross over pipe, or have yours repaired.

Gary, the horn on our cars (I have two 87's) have no horn relay (sorry Frag) They work on a negitive switch. By this I mean battery voltage is fed to both horns in parallel via the fuse. The other contact on each horn is fed to the pad on the steering wheel. To sound the horn the switch under the pad grounds this wire. You could check this pad connection for an intermitant short to ground or look at the wiring to the horns. This is done by removing the head light (4 - ten mm nuts) the horn and it's wiring is visable after they are removed. One on both sides. Any short to ground on the wire to the steering wheel will blow the horns. Hope this helps

Mitch anywhere in that range is fine, the adj. screw sits vertical behind the throttle body. Sorry to read about your appendage injury

okay donald, the pict I posted may be worth a entire written procedure. Erik admitted to maybe having the distributor wrong and needed a way to find #1 on TDC on compression You did not address this situation

Marck, pict is worth a kiloword sometimes I think this may answer you question. I believe this is the bolt/stud you speak of, and it does not pass through into the exhaust passage. Please tell me if it helps

P3, my 03 Outback's head lamps were adjusted from the factory way too low. I had the same complaint you are referring to. I believe they are set as if you had a full load of people and gear in the car. I adjusted mine to the proper height with 2 people on board and the difference is truly amazing. You may want to give this a try before spending money on new lamps. Which if you decide to do have a look at Sylvania (Osram) Silver Stars or better yet Ultra Vision. Link to their site http://www.sylvaniaautocatalog.com/sylvania/index.htm Hope this helps

XS, the rear drive is controlled by the TCU (Transmission Control Unit). In the tailshaft is a duty solenoid (Duty Solenoid C) which when it gets a signal from the TCU drains the hydraulic pressure from the engagement clutch pack. So if you have a constant signal to the DS C, the rear drive never engages. The TCU compares the two VSSs (Vehicle Speed Sensors) to determin when to release the pressure. There are fail safe modes if one is bad. The "POWER" light will flash at start up if the TCU sees a problem. The TCU can be put in diagnostic mode to find out what is wrong. Note: Newer versions of the FT4EAT have a place for a fuse under the hood, behind the pass side strut tower. The Loyale may have this holder, it will say "FWD" on the cover. 15 amp fuse works fine. This is for 2wd dyno testing. It also can be used for rear wheel down towing if the engine is allowed to run. (The pressure must be present to keep the rear drive disengaged) You should not have a fuse in the holder. The fuse signals the TCU and in turn it sends a signal to the aforementioned DS, thus opening the drain and disengaging the rear drive. These also had a problem with the seal at the rear output shaft. This problem would allow the hydraulic pressure that locks the rear drive to leak by and therefore not lock the rear drive. A new tail shaft with a modified bearing is the fix for this aliment. Recently several people have been talking about the FT4EAT on the new gen board, if you would like to read more about it, here is one of the posts http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9139 Hope it's just the fuse in the holder

I don't know how to say this easily but, Donald is incorrect when he says "line the 3 marks to bring 1 cyl to tdc. put on driver side belt Please do not get confused by this Erik. This is not TDC (Top Dead Center). When the middle of the three marks is aligned the pistons are all at the midway travel in the cylinders - not w #1 at TDC Since you are having ignition timing issues this could be confusing to you as he also says "turn till you get the ignition timing marks, set distributor" This is also only partially true, it must be on #1 compression for this to be accurate. You need to verify #1 is on compression and not exhaust. If the cam cover is off, you can look for both cam lobes in #1 to be pointing toward the out side of the engine. If the lobes are point into the engine it's on exhaust. If the case is on a small cotton ball in the spark plug hole will blow out as you bring the piston up, if its on comp. Then you can insert the dist with the rotor pointing to number 1 spark plug tower. Just trying to help