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good info that G, thanks I see no reason why it would be different in Canada.

Congrats on that, why the move? Before I quit working, I had moved up to or is that "on to"? CNC machining. Really I have never been anything but a hobby machinist. But I have to be honnest, there is just something magical about using "last word indicators" and such to make a part. The shots I've shown are my home shop, it has a few other machines, like I said.. It gets in your blood. Will, the shudder was covered under a TSB for Imps and Foresters. (many posts on this subject) As for the throw out bearing going toast. First, I will assume you got new hold down clips for the new TO. Some people report driving for years but..... Your best bet here is to start a separate post as this one has kind of gottin' lost in the weeds.

many many members have run for years "nekid" Miles Fox for one. I think he takes it off the beaten path now and then.

I would like to know for future reference if it looks different than the picture from my 97?

Sir affirmative, sir. I have never maintained any other profile. Just the step distance. I use the vernier in the background, with the depth gauge, to check it. You are most welcome, hope it helps somewhat. Kewl swappin' talk with another machinehead. As the Aussies say "here's good onya mate". Lookin' forward to the picts. Thanks on the box. Found my Kennedy full of "goodies" floating in the "bay of evil" of all places!!

Sorry, I just saw you are north of the border Maybe things are different up there?? You do mean Loyale, not Legacy? Sorry I had to ask, not a whole lot of 94 Loyales. These connectors are one wire, one connector type plugs. They do go to the ECU. Maybe look around your ECU some more. The may be taped up to the harness. Find the green ones and the black (or white?) should be close by. Sorry I couldn't help.

kewl info Porc, as you said for a 2000 His OB will not have this opening and I'll bet that shift gate has him scratchin' his bean. ;^)

Yep just like one. Yes to all the above. Here is a picture of the EA series (11.5" dia) Not that I have encountered, but the heat treated spotscan snap a cutter if you are not careful. I used to use tool steel for this but use carbide now. The 0.075 was the reduction of the step below factory.I only take as much off the face as is needed to true it. You must take the same amount off the ledge where the pressure plate rides. Running a slow spindle RPM, a die grinder and 80 grit will be fine.Will, you know your stuff! I know you will do an excellent job. For my man the Porc of Pine Ah "the Bible" gotta have one, a Kennedy (machinist tool box) is a nice to have also.

Porc, DO IT!! There is a special feeling running a real machine that some of us ....well it just gets in your blood. My "big guy" weighs in around 1700 EL Bees Here is a shot of me trying to get it out of the bed of my old pick'em up trook. So I put the backhoe back on and got it. Here she is "comin' home"

My Oh Bee has no hole access or cover over the shift lock release hole. Earlier Legacys did. You must remove the cover to gain access to the hole where the screw driver is inserted and pushed down. Removing this cover with it in park is a chore. My car, even with a blown brake line and no fluid in the master cylinder, will release the shifter- if the key is on and the brake pedal is pushed far enough to light the brake lights. Here is the hole where you manually release the lock. Hope this helps.

My most humble pleasure Tony, hope it helps. Amen to that Rav! My SS needs some clearance reduction, now about those Whitelines I have left over from my old Imp??? Off to check the chart.

In dbullen's defense, I'd like to point out 1) there are no sparking plug wires, as Porcupine points out, the EZ30 has coil on plug ignition. 2) looking for loose connections is a tuff nut to crack as this engine bay is not what you very well wishing folks are used to. 3) I do not believe he is one to go where others have gone before and would like the bloke that was "in there" have a look. Here is what I mean, It scares me to look in there and I have been wrenching longer than most board members have been alive. ;^) The pictures of this engine posted by my man Porcupine73 are fantastic.

Hi Joe, try these. http://offroadsubarus.com/ http://www.ausubaru.com/ (Backyard Boys)

This is not true if the car is in factory (non modified) condition. as othesr have said. What you need to do is step on the brake pedal. The unlock for the shift lever is incorporated into the brake light switch. It is not set to factory conditions if this is true. The brake pedal must be pushed. Back in the mid 80's a series of run away Audi 5000s brought this to light. The study found.... People stepped on the gas instead of the brake when taking the car out of Park.. We all got shift locks from the study.

Did you look there? There should be two pair of connectors 2 male - one white, one green 2 female - one white, one green Plug the white into the white turn the ig. sw. to "on" (do not start the engine) and count the flash code. Unplug them when done.

Will the sid you mention getting the weight removed from is the engine side. Note I do not know if an EJ series has this set up, as I have never seen one. These are EA series flywheels. In this picture Look at the rusted face in the center of the flywheel in the chuck That is where the clutch disc sits. Around the perimiter are what appear to be bolts (dowl pins actually) on a step above the face. This is where the pressure plate bolts. If need be, tomorrow I can get a close up of the flywheel for you. This lathe is an old Clausing Colchester Geared-head she can also take a pretty mean bite!! She's three phase so on the back side of the head you can see my "kicker" motor.

Glad we help somewhat Bill. Only folks like you, who want to help themselves can be helped. BTW a lot of talk on how bad the autozone rebuilt alts are. This has been kicked around recently. Daeron has a new one (with pulley) going cheap? in this ad http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=85127 Just a FYI, sounds like you are doing a fine job tracking down the gremlins, hope you don't need it.

The low pressure cut off switch has your system disabled. If you pressureize the system to some degree through the LOW pressure port, the low pessure cut off switch should turn on the comp. lets hope you are using gauges

Will, on your booster test. That is the correct way to test it and your's is working properly. I believe Nipper meant sink towards the floor not to it.

OB99W, you are correct in the weight removal assumption I remove it and drill holes equal in dia to the factory balance holes. And then re-test, and so on. Porc, those mini lathes have limitations as Will says. Try to find a small Atlas or older Craftsman. Here is my mid sized, I also have a old Craftsman mini. (shown below) Yes Frag, I use a D/A (Duel Action) sander with 80 griton the surface to provide this. This is standard practice and MUST be done to maintainthe proper PP to clutch disc clearence. A small amount (0.0750") more can be taken off the "step" but if too much comes off, the clutch will not disengage properly. No excuse needed for good questions.Hope we answered them to some degree.

+1 for what Tex says -drive off the apex. and 15 MPH? only wet (not ice) and all that happened? Maybe he has a speedo error also?? locked wheels do not steer but from 15 MPH? The gaurd rail must be right on the edge of the road. (i.e. no shoulder) In Russ's defence, wet, dark roads must be traversed with caution, which it sounds like he was exercising.

You're most welcome, If you plan on keeping it in your system you could start by putting a "Wanted" ad in the "Subaru Wanted forum" http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=&f=37

Here is a chart/post from some of the best Legacy techs in the country http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=2153

Hi Steve, since it really looks like you are doing you homework. Cougar's words are pointing you in the correct direction. I have a problem with some of your results I don't know what the "2-3 in" means?Do you mean 5a out of the alternator? 2-3 into the battery? see my above statement This is what I was thinking you were saying. Yes, the charge going to the battery will be large ( black lines showing varring amount of current vs width) just after starting - to recharge the battery. After that the normal operation will maintain the charge and the alt output will run the car Hope this "visual" helps.

Howdy Bill, Sounds like this is not a big concern but if the brushes in the alt are getting worn down the alt output can come and go. You may be seeing this or it may be a loose connection. A voltmeter is a cheap investment, But I love reasons to buy new tools. ;^) Good luck, hope ya don't get stuck.