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Hi Tony, as you know Legacy central is da place for these cars, period. have a peek at this http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=2153

Welcome to the good ship USMB Yes you can read the codes without a scanner by plugging together two white colored connectors. The codes are flashed to you in a small window on the front of the ECU. You must lower the plastic panel below the steering coluum to see it. Silver box, small round window. Here is a sight with the codes. Your connectors will be under the hood by the drivers side hood hinge. Hope this helps (don't be mis-lead by the title of the link) It is for your car. http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/ Welcome and hope this helps. Please also look at the USRM (Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual) linked to at the top of this page

From the diagram provided by Gloyale doctored somewhat by me. The ACVV controls the air flow through the emultion tubes in the carb. It is controled, as GD says, by a vacuum signal (lower line on the ACVV) which is controled by the thermo switch/solenoid valve. The top line beside the plugged port goes to the inside of the air cleaner. From the diagram, it looks like you could connect the two lines going to the carb together and plug the rest. Maybe with this diagram your shop would have a better understanding. Hope this helps

it sure would be nice of you to tell us what model you are driving your alt probably died an untimely death and what you are seeing is a dead battery (or soon to be) If you feel I'm being insolent, I'm sorry a trite saying I made up "info is the key that unlocks knowledge"

kewl, then I'll wager

I'll have to look around for one of those, mine are all fixed pitch type. Forget the rest when you own the best!! This is a performance mod for some guys, I usethe dimensions of a flywheel for an XT6 for my minimum sizes. About 6 lbs of chips. I don't think you will be doing this?? On the contrary, I must balance these after turning. The factory balance is thrown off by removing so much weight. I use a SnapOn wheel balancer that I have made an adapter for.

The EJ22 in you car does not suffer the headgasket problems like some EJ25s do but.. Your engine is an intereference engine. By this I mean, if the timing belt breaks you can suffer a valve train crash. OB99W's alt. is a good choice, your mech. can use a stethescope to check it and other driven components. The idler pulleys for the timing belt can not be seen. They can also fail. Belt breaks and well??

10/4 on what cob says. Besides in some states (mine PA for instance) there is a silly law that fog lights only be on with the low beams. The coil of relay mentioned is powered by the low beam circuit. You might pull the switch out of the dash and look for wires connected to it. If so, the wires for the lights are probably under the bumper.

does the icon on the switch look like the one on switch on the far left note: this is a newer OB but switches are in about the same place, and use similar icons

Nice knuling tool!! Do you know if it came from Enco? Is your quick change post an Aloris? The surface of the flywheel can show heat treated sections but is almost always in need of a new "suface" - like rotors. I have never used a dial indicator to check runout. I use one to make sure it's true in the chuck. I turn the meat off the back along with the face and on our EA series the PP step. (see the "step" in my above picture) Here is a "meat off" shot

nj, are you sure you read this link? http://www.phact.org/e/dennis.html

Sorry Nipper, this statement corn-fuses my lame brain. When I mounted my rear squirter output below the bumper (read "low") and into the exhaust pipe. Siphoning was a problem. I had to add a solenoid valve to prevent it. How does mounting it "low" avoid siphoning?

Thanks for the follow up Will. Nice turn on the handle. (45 deg spiral angle, 90 deg profile?) On the flywheel question. Sorry, I only have done the EA series, I'm gonna bet an EJ is not that much bigger and will fit a 17" swing. EZ to turn with carbide cutters.

Good call on the 2" receiver G!! Some of us need to park trailers ect. A mount on the front is way kewl for this.

Howdy Peter, This comes up every winter. Couple times already the last month or so. There is a check valve in the large vacuum line to the booster. This valve gets frozen restricting the vacuum to the booster. Cleaning and spraying it out with a moisture displaceant (WD40) normaly get it back to normal. Hope this helps.

Sorry, I'm sure this has been linked to before? I just missed it I guess. Thanks to carfreak for the link to it. It says "Brat Turbo" but includes many vintage real shots of Gen I and II. Some I have never seen. Again I apologize if this is a repost http://youtube.com/watch?v=ndG3axy6BeY

Howdy Will, looks like your on your way some real good info here. Just some notes in passing, looks like the morse taper on your chuck is getting there? Lathe chips? Bet you turned yourself a handle for the seal puller and the shaft?, what! no knurling? Is the lathe big enough to turn the flywheel?

thanks for sharing!!! all I can says is YIKES!! guess that's one way to keep the mice out??

Thanks for the heads up GD I have been searching for an EGT for my turbo diesel truck. The common ones are much more money and I have no where to mount them. This guy will monitor my EGTs and my tranny temp (I'll be also getting the type K TC and drill and tap my drain plug for it) and fit in an open panel in the lower dash. Thanks again.

Hi Dan, The ECU and TCU communicate and the ECU knows the engine temp. When the engine is cold it will cause this to warm up faster. You don't say if this happens all the time but I'll assume it does? The shift points are a combination of TPS, VSS. and other factors. (input from the MAP sensor) Most of these will turn on the CEL if their outputs are out of range. How many miles? maybe the pump is getting tired thus the line pressure is low. Change the tranny fluid comes first on the list. Get it flushed if possible.

well done Sir ED!! Porcupine73 would be proud

my pleasure David, glad you found it good link, it is by the gentleman who started the thread MonstaRu linked to in post #18 "mo powr' to ya" The duel bat setup looks kewl also. One would no doubt need an isolater like motorhomes use.

Way kewl with the new additions I believe we owe Sir McBrat a big Thank you very much!!

GD makes a good point, as usual I would like to add to his and Edrach's checking of the connector under the coluum that houses the ignition switch wires. (pink or white) -I've only seen pink and saw what Ed mentions. If allowed to go, it could fail completely leaving you with no ignition switched components.

Yikes!! Thanks Gloyale, that is some serious good and detailed info for anyone pulling apart a front diff. For whatever reason. It may have been covered before somewhere but with your pictures... (thousand words an all that) well done. Thanks again, now about getting the smell of gear lube out of......