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Come on Porc, I need to see this. I'm just curious that's all. An opening in the exhaust port?? (meaning in the head?) 90 deg from the flow direction? EA's had a plate over the exhaust port that had an opening for the rump roast (Air Suction System) The opening introduced filtered air into the exhaust flow to provide enough 02 into the cat. This done so it could burn left over hyrdocarbons. Could this be the same type opening? But now cast into the head?? If the EJ25 has one ?? I'll get a picture. I have one on a stand at this time.

here is a recent post detailing the light and how it works/doesn't work http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=83829&highlight=thermistor

agreed Z -> semantics why I said "sometimes" It is common vernacular to call them "Wide Band 02 sensors" from your link Wide Range Air Fuel (WRAF) sensors, also called Wide Ratio Air/Fuel sensors, Wide Band Oxygen Sensors or Air/Fuel (A/F) Ratio Sensors, are replacing conventional oxygen sensors in many late model vehicles Both types monitor the 02 content and the ECU uses this to calculate the approx A/F ratio. The Wide Band is a variable output (think volume control) where as the Narrow band is almost like an on/off switch. Good link by the way.

"Torque bind" occurs when the transfer clutches that engage the rear drive lock up when they shouldn't. This puts the car in 4wd like a truck or Jeep with 4wd engaged. These have no center differential so turning (which causes the wheels to traverse different distances) causes the drive train bind. Like one would feel in a truck with 4wd engaged used on dry pavement. Causes for this lock up vary but usually it can be attributed to the fact that the solenoid (called solenoid C ) in the tailshaft has failed. This solenoid (when working) opens the drain for the hyd. pressure that holds the clutches locked. The amount of "drainage" is controlled by the TCU (Transmission Control Unit) by sending a duty cycle signal to solenoid C. Thus controlling the "percentage" of drive sent to the rear wheels. If the solenoid fails, the hyd pressure is NOT drained and therefore forces the clutches to lock the rear drive "In". You are now in "locked" 4wd. I am sure someone will chime in and fill in details I overlooked or stated incorrectly. Hope this helps understand your Subaru AWD system.

Exactly like Miles said. I would add the vacuum needed is "stored" in a canister on the shelf behind the pass side strut. If it's check valve goes bad you will not "store" vacuum. An easy indication of this is the HVAC output vents change when you pull a long hill or accelerate. (the HVAC's vacuum controlled doors use the same storage container.) Be sure to Check the tire manufacturers/sizes and pressures. Do not use 4wd on surfaces that have good traction.

I would want to rule out a bad CV joint first. Do you ever hear / feel a clacking when stepping on the gas in a turn? Look behind the wheel hubs and see it there is evidenece of grease being thrown out of a torn CV boot. If not, you could be in the early stages of Torque Bind. Fist thought is to have the tranny fluid changed via a flush. (some like to do the multiple pan drain and fills, I like it all in one shot) The repair is not fun, it involves removing the tail shaft of the tranny. It can be done with the tranny in the car but... peak under there once to get an idea of what is involved. Hope this gives you some insight.

You are most welcome, sir, glad it helped. Some graphite lube (like for door locks) can help the noise and vibration. I'd like to add, it is way kewl of you guys to say "thanks"! Many miles of smiles in your Su Bar Ru.

and you need ask why HE is the master!! Porc you are the best, hands down Thanks for your dedication, very well done !!! I bow to the hierarchy Live long and prosper!

little late today, will look tomorrow " which nuts were u talkin about" the nuts holding the head pipes to the block. Some claim the impact is the gun of choice in this fight. I have had them pull the studs out of the block threads and all. Soak soak and then soak some more with PB Blaster (not WD 40) will help. Whatever you choose do not take a knife (simple socket and ratchet) to this gunfight.

PB Blaster, leave the WD for wet ignition systems Left hand drill bits can work magic. Lowes may have them Northern Tool ect

You do not say if this is a VDC with the rear LSD. I say this as a LSD rear diff needs different servicing. Yes, you should have both done, a tranny flush would be better. Some reading if you want on Subaru coolant starts with a different engine but covers all newer models. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84620

Howdy dogg here are a couple posts on the timing chain in our H6 Outbacks I have 75 Kmi. on mine. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84652 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=83532&highlight=timing+chain http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=82304&highlight=timing+chain I turned these and others up for you with "Timing Chain" in the search box. Hope this helps.

I read you loud and clear on the exhaust drop!! I would not attempt it without heating the nuts to cherry red with a brazing tip on an oxyacetylene torch. Others offer different methods but this is the only way I have had 100% success with doing it. If you want I'll see if I can dig out the home made wrench and get some pictures of it.

After seeing Porcupine's most excellent pictures. I had to see if it is true that a junk aftermarket T-stat will fit in upside down. I had the parts on the bench so I took a look Fit fine, but will NOT last a long time

just trying to emulate the master... ahem, that's all. Imitation is the ultimate form of flattery.

Thanks Porc, you have taught us well that a pict is sometimes worth a kiloword. Agreed on the crank pulley, looks like I may get up close and personal when I change the serp. belt. I know if you were I you'd take pictures of the proceedure. Hope dbullen does if he tackles the project.

My other 78 resting piecefully (sic) in the body shop

Thanks again Porc good stuff on Endwrench click "Archives" Put "coolant" in the top search box

as always thanks for the part number and the info Porc

I did mine while the exhaust was still on the car. That's what required a special angled wrench. If I remember it sits in a well surrounded by the heat shiedling.

A more or less simple test is to pull the plug apart going to the motor. Check the harness side for battery power on the green with a white tracer wire when the key is in the run position. It comes from the relay. Speeds are controled by the negitive side of the motor passing through the switch and the appropriate resistor. Hope this helps

Thanks Wayd, I WILL check that today. The engine was on high idle when the pict was taken but I trust your judgement. (75 kmi.) 10/4 on the oil change interval, thanks.

Gloyale is spot on with his description the automatics work the same way. Remember you will need a SPDT (Single Pole Double Throw) switch.

Dave we do not know what car/engine you are talking about but some aftermarket T-stats will fit in upside down. This may cause what you describe, esp in an EJ engine with the T-stat on the block side of the lower hose. "Coils to the block so it won't get too hot" You are doing the right thing getting an OEM T-stat See Porc73's pictures of the difference.

Doubt that's the problem as GD pointed out it could be the relay also. It's in a tangled web of wires above the ECU by the steering column As for the blower and resistor block look under the glove box for this