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Thanks for replys, but NO_ONE is reading the First Post. I did ? Its Not the relays, and its not the Coolant Temp Switch This statement tells me you changed the fan thermo switch The problem is the Fuel Injection Coolant Thermo Sensor. Approx. 30 USD at the stealership Located behind the engine block vent pipe for the PCV system. Hope this helps, my EJ22 Legacy did the same thing.

Lefty I always feel a pict is worth a kilo-word so look under the dip stick and __hope this helps_ _______________ ========> Tighty

you could test it with the aid of an oscilloscope or possibly with an older style "dwell tach" set in the dwell mode As for replacement, boneyard or CCR Inc. http://www.ccrengines.com/ possibly Your 82 is kind of an odd sort out The FPCU it employs went out of fashion soon there after. I am sorry I can not answer if a newer EA81 distributor will function properly. Emily or Shawn at CCR may be able to. If so there are two types Nippon (2 wd) and Hitachi (4wd) Operating principles are the same but the advance curves are different.

Bob, First, the fuel return was engineered for a purpose. This being so the fuel pump is not "dead headed". This condition exists when a pump tries to push against a closed system. This condition will exist in your fuel system when at idle. I have read where some people get away with it, but for how long has not been reported. If the float needle seat or valve is not up to the task carb dumping can result, it may not be enough "passed gas" to cause problems but why take chances. The engineers at Subaru may not always score tries- but most times they do put the ball up for points on a free kick. BTW The filter you speak of with the return out of the top is a "vapor separator" The true fuel return line is connected close to the carby fuel inlet. The Weber DG series I have have a return built into the fuel input port. You can use a "T" with a restrictor placed in the return leg.

JW, welcome to the board McBrat has a page set up to view the wheels we can use here is a link to it Subaru Wheels Page

I checked it out - way kewl mon Thanks for the enlightenment. When you mentioned it I thought it was a local thing

my check mark goes beside the ignition module in the distributor no pulses from it and the FPCU will not run the pump

as Hoozie said ECU code link http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=44 The power light flashing is telling you the tranny (4EAT) has issues also you can read error codes from it also but the proceedure is much different

I have a quick question, I thought only turbo engines got the breather cover under the flywheel? Do all MPFI get it? You know your Suby beans better than I so if you say non Turbo -I believe you

CJ On the diff lock set up. There are two vacuum solenoids that shift the center diff lock on or off. They can be controlled with any two pole single throw switch. You can use the one on the center console or put one in of your own devise. I believe you will find the solenoids above the master cylinder directly in front of the wiper motor. The solenoids feed vacuum to a servo vacuum diaphragm. It in turn pulls or pushes a cable that is connected to the shift arm on the diff. The same set up shifts the 4wd system in and out on a single range "push button" 4wd. With the switch in one position, one of the solenoids feeds vacuum to the servo motor. With the switch in the other position the other solenoid feeds vacuum - causing the servo to move the other way. There is a light controlled by the other throw on the switch, telling you it is in the lock position. Note you should not drive on surfaces that do not allow tire slippage with it in the lock position. Hope this helps

John yes I did look at the picture The ones in the picture appear to be down side up I believe you are seeing the bottom on the bracket that holds the solenoids

Many places sell the 02 sensor bung. I buy them from NAPA and then weld it onto the turbo down pipes I make. You could grind or with a large drill bit get the old one off and have the new one welded on I think it would be cheaper than a c-note. Just a thought

Thanks for clearing that up Matt. I suspected so but did not have the facts as you obviously do. Concerning the regulation for mud flaps you quote. I believe the illustration I saw in the regulation update showed the angle as measured from the rear tire One leg of the angle being the road surface. The other leg of the angle being a line drawn from the tire contact point on the ground to the bottom of the flap. The inspection station must have a fairly large protractor or use the trig e.g. Measure the distance on the road surface from the tire to a point directly below the mudflap (D) The distance from the road surface to the mudflap (H) to be legal is given by H = D Tan(22.5 degrees) = D x 0.41 Is this correct?.

Klaus We are both saying the same thing I believe. I was replying to Miles's post - both lamps dim (please see the subject I put onto the reply) Not the original post that had one dim lamp. The parking lights do have a separate set of contacts and therefore you could say a separate switch, inside the headlight control.. But the voltage for both come from the RH headlamp relay. Maybe this diagram will explain what we mean

Klaus, the "parking lights" I mention include the tail lights. As for your flicking of the light switch fixing the problem possibly the contacts in the lighting switch are going bad and the on/off/on sets them to a full contact position. It must be noted that the these lights (parking, tail ect.) are controlled by a separate set of contacts in the lighting switch. These lights are controlled the "conventional. way" By this I mean one leg of the lamp is grounded and to illuminate the lamp the switch provides the positive voltage. This is not the case with the headlamps, see above.

Although it doesn't amount to a hill of beans or aluminum cans I have been getting vehicles inspected in PA for 35 years, I have never heard of this "rule". But it doesn't surprise me, as we also have a complicated to some trigonometry formula for the length a mud flap must be. BTW an al U min E Um can is just shy of 5 in (4.875) or 12.4 cm

Frank, I am sorry I did not mean to "dis" your fix Well done and I am glad it solved your problem. I guess what I was intending was that I would adopt the KISS principle before condemning the relays. Once again I'm sorry it was not meant as an affront. incidentally the parking lights (including the license plate and dash illumination) are fed their positive battery voltage from the right hand headlamp relay

I agree to disagree If both headlights are affected..... I find it hard to believe both relays went south simultaneously. I would put my check mark beside the ground point for both headlights or the "R" fusible link connection (this FL feeds the headlamp current to the relays.) These points are common to both headlights and if one of them is not making the trip, both headlamps will be dim. Plus they are both much easier to access than the relays are.

Fgug, Your problem was not the vacuum modulator. I believe it was and still is your governor. By removing it and "playing" with it You freed the shuttle temporarily. If you take a moment and read the repair article you will see that the shuttle must be removed, deburred, and cleaned. I trust you have Acrobat Reader? Try this link http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/mick/mick-usrm/ATgovenorclean.pdf Just having no "apple coring" does not guarantee the shuttle will move freely. As for the vent problem It's too cold here now to go out and look for it I will, later today, take a peek at a 3AT I have if no one else answers. You could just drill a small hole in the dipstick top cap. Sorry I couldn't help.

John, I'm sorry I do not have the part number for the solenoid valves. But I can tell you specifically where they are located in the off chance you would rather go to a junk yard and buy them instead of paying 300 large at a stealership. These solenoid valves are located above and behind the master cylinder, directly in front of the wiper motor. Here is what they look like mounted in the car. They will be found on any four wheel drive GL/DL (85 to 90) series car that does NOT have high and low range. We call these "push button 4wd" or simply single range 4wd. If you go to a boneyard in search of.. a quick peek inside the car will tell you if it has the valves. A 4wd car with two (2) gear shift levers will not have them A car that will have them will have a red button on the gear shift ... if manual on top of the knob (James Bond button) if automatic on the drivers side of the shift lever We have a market place section on this board. Very good chance of finding one there if you post a WTB (Wanted To Buy) Push button 4wd control solenoid valves. Hope this helps and good luck with your locker

No it is not that hard The lines you are having a problem reaching can be disconnected at their respective other ends. This should allow you enough slack to lift it and remove them from the unit. BTW Good idea to change the lower coolant line with a factory replacement. It is a special hose to endure the heat in this area.

Some items to check The electrical connection You had to make some kind of connection to fit the new Bosch 02 sensor. Did you crimp the connector or solder it? The cable from the ECU has a ground shield. Make sure it is not contacting the inner wire. The ground for the 02 sensor. Exhaust systems have been known to rust. They can loose the ground connection to the frame. The 02 sensor must have a good ground path back to the ECU if it is to work properly, remember we are talking about a very small voltage. I always connect the body of the 02 sensor to the ground shield. I do this by using a heater hose clamp to clamp a piece of wire to the body of the sensor and then connect this wire to the shield on the 02 wire. Good luck I hope this helps

I would like to see a usd/lb on those sweeties

Hayne, please paste your peepers over this recent thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=31859

Thanks for the reply Tex I was afraid I went brain south again operative word "again" and mailed it to off street address Glad you got it set up to your specs. My remote starter is the best thing since butt wipe on a roll