1 Lucky Texan

perhaps a tire threw weight off - you could have that inspected, maybe move front to rear and rear pair to front - monitor for any change. using an infrared thermometer to measure the hubs after a run might find an excessively hot wheel, if so check brakes and bearings. some people have found bad driveshaft components making vibration. I've read of people discovering loose lugnuts allowing the wheel to move around.

maybe someone from maryland here could suggest a different mechanic to take a fresh look at your car. some computer controls began in the early 70s. Quite common by mid/late 80s. read here; http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On_Board_Diagnostics Though some cars were OBDII compliant in 95 (possibly yours, might be on a label in the engine bay, or underside of the hood), it was mandated in 96.

well, it may be the VC in the 5-spd. They occasionally go bad. And, any mis-match of final drive ratios will definitely cause torque bind. But it would have been immediately apparent after the parts were installed. Did you just recently get this car? Are all your tires the same brand/size? They need to be extremely close to the same circumference. Even a new tire mixed with old ones can cause 'torque bind'. If you turn slow tight circles on flat dry pavement, is there any bucking/jerking felt in the car? Try it cold and after a highway run.

I've seen some generic-fit silicone boots for sale at Amazon, but the few reviews were negative. Have they been durable for you? got any part numbers or sources? thanx

well, the symptoms sorta mirror typical failed rad fan symptoms. But, soobs exhibit odd symptoms with bad head gaskets and after market t'stats. If the t'stat BRAND/STYLE was the problem, I'd think you'd have had problems immediately - not 60K later. check the fan operation first and watch for collapsing hoses - cros your fingers that the rad cap was bad but, seems unlikely. hope it isn't HGs again.

interesting seems like there could have been more than one problem, wondering about the wiring issue. Kinda wondering why the fuel pump was changed too. On 'cold' starts, the computer only knows to add fuel (choke) by getting a temperature reading from a sensor. If that information is good, it chokes the car allowing it to start more easily. Then, as the engine temp goes up, it reverts to a more efficient/leaner fuel map. So, the Engine Temp Sensor (not the temp gauge sender for the gauge on the dash) and it's wiring is important. But, if you had a leaking injector , you could have TOO MUCH fuel and, holding the gas pedal on the floor causes a 'clear flood' setting to be used. That's when the computer shuts fuel off. If you want to do more testing, checking fuel pressure after sitting overnight or pulling plugs to look for one wet with fuel might be a good idea. maybe someone else will have some ideas.

probably no worse than other cars form the mid 80s.

ouch - that steering wheel probably broke his nose!

so many things can cause that code. definitely get every maintenance/tune-up issue taken care of - make sure the plugs/wires are good, etc. seafoam treatment is a good suggestion. clear the code and see how quickly/if it returns. DO NOT change the cat. converters.

could that be kilometers?

cool could you link to the test you used or outline it for us?

do an oil change after you get this fixed. oil is probably loaded with gas.

maybe you can find a brand/model of the remote start system and locate a manual for it on-line? It may be OK if it was professionally installed, but many people have problems with them and it's usually worse if some DIYer did it.

holy zombie jesus, is that all the endwrench articles? cool!

what kind of bands do the Subaru boots come with? where are you getting them?

can't speak to everything but you definitely do not want a typical after market t'stat.

throttle body cleaning might be helpful.

Although soob bearings can fail in odd ways, both the bad ones I've had would 'rock' up-down (12 oclock to 6 oclock) when lifted off the ground. One of them was very noisy , the other one silent. they both only moved a coupla mm.

I read of a guy that misrouted the breather hoses and the PCV vacuum hose on his STI. Had low oil pressure and even heard gurgling in the dipstick tube!

many systems (not just cars) are built with 'normally closed'-type logic. That way, a connection problem will also show itself.

swap front and rear tire pairs and monitor for any changes. also, some folks have had a dragging caliper cause similar issues. maybe use a remote infrared thermometer and compare hub/brake temps side-to-side after a highway run.

http://txtup.co/iVJPd ALSO there is a device under the intake on the right hand, rear side that has a vac hose and some wires running to it, but its not hooked up to a vac hose, and IO don't recall unhooking it, nor is there a port to hook it up to sounds like the Purge valve - could be your Evap code problem (some older soobs have that in the back, some under the hood - I dunno which years so, I might be wrong) Hose should go to the intake IF it's the purge valve - not sure if it's routed to near the throttle body or exactly where.....maybe dig around at opposedforces.com for a diagram for your car. DOH - didn't see the next page before replying

sounds like a good idea on the snap rings - if they will stay put. Um, I have an 06 WRX, any idea how common my engine might have that problem? Did these cars seem well-maintained?

I HAVE seen RockAuto offer 'surplus' stuff - but it was CLEAR in the listing you were buying some overstock/surplus stuff (recently it was windshield wipers) yeah, I'd probably only go with a dealer-supplied belt or a Gates kit as others have mentioned.

do the lights dim when you try to start?