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Found 39 results

  1. Hi Guys I have the 2003 Subaru Forester 2.0 xt, automatic and has 90 000km on the clock. I got it second hand on Saturday and i drove it back to my house which is 600km away. All went well but i am having a problem, when the car and the air around are both cold i get nice performance and can feel that beautiful Subaru motor, turbo and intercooler pull that drew me to this car, but as soon as the car heats up a bit after maybe 5 min of driving or if the car sits in the sun. The power disappears. It may be wrong to say that the power completely disappears but it fells like the turbo isn't pulling. One other thing. As soon as i got it home it did a full service on the car hoping that this would sort the problem. That was fuel filter, air filter, oil filter, oil change, spark plugs changed. This didn't sort my power problem. I took it for a spin around the block and was pushing it a bit trying to see what's happening with the power. When i got back to the house there was steam pouring out of the bonnet. The heat gauge seemed fine and was half way. I opened the bonnet and there was coolant everywhere. The top of the radiator where the black part joins with the aluminium (The aluminium is curled over the black top part holding it down). There was water coming out of there. It seemed to be the only part that was loosing water. Please guys help me find what the problem is. I presume that the top tank on the radiator maybe needs replacing and i have taken the radiator out of the car but i don't know what caused this to happen and would hate to get a new top tank and it happens again or it blows something else. Please guys i love this car and don't feel that the expertise needed are available here in my country to sort this out.
  2. I have a 1990 Loyale, 300k miles, beater but generally reliable car. Its been running hot from time to time, but yesterday was running close to the red on temp gauge. Added coolant, but noted there is a leak coming from the plastic nut located just above the drain stop cock. Pulled that leaky nut out and found the threads and washer are shot. Can anyone tell me the purpose of that aperture into the radiator? Can I just replace that or plug it with a similar nut, or do I need a specialized part? Alos note the fan is not working. How can I tell where the fan faiure lies? Fan Motor? Controll Unit? Thermostat?
  3. ..And probably one that has been asked before, but after a couple hours of searching here, I haven't found an answer. 1992 Loyale has original all-metal radiator that actually doesn't leak, but the fins are mostly corroded and have flaked away, thus not cooling well. Does alright most of the time, but pulling a hill during the summer requires full heat on to keep the temp in-check. This is a fairly low mileage engine and I'm not willing to let this slide and risk it anymore. I'm finding both types of replacement radiators available: All-metal (CSF Model #933), and Aluminum-core with plastic tanks (APDI/ProRad Model #8010935). I know there are pros and cons for each type, and I've read various opinions on other forums, but I'd rather take advice from a more vehicle-specific point of view. There is only a $40 price difference that I'm not terribly concerned about. Thoughts? Opinions? Experiences? What would YOU do, or what have you done? Thanks.
  4. Ok so I know I could have avoided this by running coolant. So really i just let the cold kill my car.. But my radiator has had a mean leak so I've been topping it off with water almost daily. It's a ea81 82' GL. Below freezing temps hit and froze all the water. Yesterday it happened aswell I started it up and the belt was squeeling on the water pump pulley so I shut it off then topped off the radiator with warm water and let it sit for a minute. I turned the pulley by hand to make sure it was not frozen and started it up. Warmed up fine and drive me to work and back. Today I start it up and same thing, all frozen. I let it run for about 30 seconds with the belt slipping on the frozen water pump pulley. Shut it off and added some warm water to melt the ice. It took a LOT of water this time. All the ice seemed to be melted. Turned it over again and it ran very rough the while motor was vibrating like it never has. I shut it off for a minute and turned it over again to have it start very rough and make one or two terrible knocking/clanking noises then die. Then it just wouldn't turn over at all like its seized/locked up. I pop the hood to find oil/water mixture oozing out of the intake!?? Into the air cleaner box. The water in the radiator had oil mixed in aswell. I know this is bad but my question to you is what's my damage?? I'm fairly new to cars so please bare with me. Thanks in advance !
  5. Basically I'm wondering what radiators will work in my 82 gl wagon. With ea81. The junkyard has an 85 , 87 and an 88. Do these have the same radiator? Is there any parts from these cars that are the same from 82? Rear bumper possibly? What about turning lights and brake lights ? If any parts would swap right over with bolt in ease?
  6. evilspawn666

    Very low heat

    Ok guys here is my situation. 87 dl wagon fwd 1.8 no turbo. Just put in new heater core, radiator, coolant and still the car has almost no heat. Yes the system has been "burped". Anyone know where I should troubleshoot next or maybe an old or current discussion that talks about this? Also does anyone know off hand where the fresh are vent is located on this car? Thanks.
  7. Hi fellow subie lovers! New to this website Having an issue with radiators or hoses? Easy to change the radiator yourself. Myself and my 17 year old son have just done this today with fab results Biggest issue was getting the crusty old hoses to come off but with the help of the pruning shears we managed...... going well. tackling the oil leak next
  8. Hi all, I'm new here and just bought a 97 outback and have been having overheating issues. A mechanic did a leakdown test and determined that it was a leaking radiator, so I replaced the radiator along with the thermostat, and the upper radiator hose (the aftermarket lower hose didn't fit). The engine runs great and drives fine around town, but when I take it on the freeway it overheats. It'll run well for anywhere from 2 minutes to an hour until the temperature suddenly rises. It takes about 30 seconds to go from normal temp to red line. If I stop for a minute and run the fan then it will return to normal temp and I can drive another couple of miles before the problem develops again. I took it to another mechanic who did another coolant leakdown test and he said the system held pressure just fine. Any ideas? I'm worried that it's a head gasket, but shouldn't that show up in a leakdown test or wouldn't it also overheat at low speeds? Could the thermostat just suddenly close?
  9. I am planning on replacing the stock radiator. Which brands would you recommend? There are a huge range of brands and prices from generic, no name for $65; to NISSENS for about $145. Thanks for your input
  10. Last September discovered head gasket leak. Tried to plug with "Alumaseal Stopleak." (Stupid idea)! Problem persisted. Three weeks later I flushed cooling system & tried to plug leak with "Bar's Leak Head Gasket Repair." Leak seemed plugged, but 8 months later engine overheated & radiator coolant was discovered to be way too low. Replaced coolant, kept radiator filled on inspection. Ten days ago added Subaru Cooling System Conditioner. Coolant began backing up into coolant reservoir, nearly filling it to the top every 75 miles, with foam floating near the top. Five days ago tried using "BAR'S LEAKS Head Gasket Repair." Looked good! No steam or water exiting tailpipe, and level of water in coolant reservoir remained steady — BUT — was only able to get 4 quarts of fluid into radiator! Engine now overheats in 15 minutes. Removed thermostat — no change. Top radiator hose hot, bottom hose cold. My guess — I plugged radiator with all the gunk I poured in. Can I flush that crap out with some sort of commercial additive, or should I just get a new radiator?
  11. I have a EJ22, is the Subaru coolant conditioner (which I think is designed to help with head gaskets?) worth the money? Would you recommend it? Is it worth the extra money? This is the product I am talking about: http://prntscr.com/1rdov6
  12. hey guys lookin for a lil advice here. workin on startin an ej22 swap into my 88 gl and am wondering if the original single row radiator will provide sufficient cooling or if its better to go with a 2 row that would require some modification to move the original mounting holes on the car to fit the different radiator? thanks guys, Ryan
  13. Bought a 90 legacy & discovered it had an overheating issue. Aftermarket temperature gauge (came with vehicle) reading 210 as operating temperature, but would drop to 170-190 at 50-60 mph. Trouble shoot fans, both fan motors are dead. Replaced both fans. No change in temp. Curiously, the both fans run all the time, even at cold start up. Trouble shoot coolant, coolant is ok. Trouble shoot thermostat, get OEM aftermarket brand supposedly designed to keep temp at 170. Drained coolant and installed new thermostat, fillled with fresh coolant (but did not start at engine block..'burped' ...just filled into radiator) and temp now runs at 200. Will attempt to burp system today. Is a fun car, but the cooling thing is really strange. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
  14. Hey guys this is my first post and I searched the best I could but could find nothing. So I had my hood popped and with the keys out of the ignition there was a faint buzzing coming from the radiator area. I open'd the overflow coolant side and the buzzing stopped. What the hell right? Closed it and it started again. I topped up the coolant which it took maybe a 1/2 liter total ran it for awhile and it stopped. I've been loosing a little coolant lately but not a whole lot. I have the X model auto. I'm lost, any thoughts would be great!
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