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7,500rpm!!!


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After some hard off-roading, I took the '87 D/R Wagon on the road to sling the mud off of the tires and rims. I punched it in 1st gear and as I pushed the clutch in......WAAAAAAAAAA........stuck throttle! While stomping the pedal and looking for second I glanced at the tach....7,500rpm! I was just about to shut her down when I found second and dumped the clutch. I fried the front tires nicely:cool: . A buddy of mine that was riding with me was quite impressed. He thought I did that on purpose:D . As I was going through second, I freed the pedal and took it back home for repair (bad return spring). All is well now.

 

I cannot believe this engine is still in one piece. I expected the engine to grenade at any moment, or at least throw a belt or 4. I have a new respect for these engines now.

 

The car must be pissed at me for 'wheeling it so hard today. On the way home, I smelled the sweet/dreaded smell of antifreeze flowing from my heater vents. You can imagine what I will be doing tomorrow.

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yeah....t3h wagon when it blew its rings (and i think melted a piston on its way) after i moved it to its final resting spot....I WOT'ed it with no load on 15 or so PSI. Held that for like 2 mins. It still didnt let go and it stayed at 7k. Temp never went past 180 either. :confused:

 

Tuff in some ways but weak in others....unless its built properly. lildevil.gif

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When I was working at a Subie shop, we decited to blow an engine in a 87 wagon we were parting out. We let it run with the tack pegged and about 10 minuted the cat started melting down and it got to a point where there was too much backpressure to keep the engine running.

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Over my dead body, Baccaruda!

I will not allow YOU to treat OUR wagon like that!!!

 

I was Rally Crossing my RX and happened to look at the tach...7,500RPM! I didn't realize I turned it that fast, I try to keep at less than 6,000, it's hard tell by ear with the stock exhaust. It pulls real hard from 3,000 to 7,500.

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I have had my suby up to 7000 rpm a few times to see what would happen after I rebuilt it and it ran fine. With my custom exhaust the car definatly runs at a higher rpm more easily. After 6000 rpm my car doesn"t have much power gain. 5200 to 5500 is the power band I would say for my car.I have my timing set for the quickest throttle response but this seems to sacrifice some top end power.

 

Also I use 185-60-r13 tires which lowers my gear ratio. I know is is moving in the opposite direction of most people on this board who want big wheels for clearence. But this set up really helps the power spool up and I can get the car to its power band more easily. For the first time I have got my car up to 5200 rpm in fifth gear.This gives me a higher top speed because I can get into the power band in top gear.I have considered the effect of the smaller wheels on the speedometer.

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hehheh.. just the engine, it's suffering anyway, might as well put it out of my misery... and i don't have any cats to melt to seal the exhaust :)

maybe i'll completely disable the wastegate too, so it'll make for a really good show. wonder why nobody's signed up yet... :drunk:

 

Over my dead body, Baccaruda!

I will not allow YOU to treat OUR wagon like that!!!

 

I was Rally Crossing my RX and happened to look at the tach...7,500RPM! I didn't realize I turned it that fast, I try to keep at less than 6,000, it's hard tell by ear with the stock exhaust. It pulls real hard from 3,000 to 7,500.

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I regularly took my Honda to 12,500rpm. Still runs just fine. My Datsun sees 7000 pretty often. I ran my '58 Triumph at redline 5000rpm (pretty high for a diesel-tractor-based engine) in 4th for 3 hours straight.

 

Subarus are short-stroke, short-crank-length engines. Can't see any reason why they wouldn't run nicely at 9000rpm if set up correctly. (Means pay attention to oil feed to crank, high-quality properly torqued rod and case bolts, and upgraded valve gear.)

 

Very few production/consumer engines can be overreved to engine destruction. The valves will float long before the bottom end and rods are in danger of failure.

 

Oh, I cheated a bit in regards to my Honda. It is a 400F murdercycle, with a stock 11,500rpm redline.

 

hehheh.. just the engine, it's suffering anyway, might as well put it out of my misery... and i don't have any cats to melt to seal the exhaust :)

maybe i'll completely disable the wastegate too, so it'll make for a really good show. wonder why nobody's signed up yet... :drunk:

Don't kill your engine, just 'cuz it needs some attention. Somebody (me :brow: ) would be willing to get it back into proper working order.
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hmm i have a nice autometer tach that pegs at 11or 12 k i think

problem is its meant for a magneto system as it came from a blown mudbogger

still trying to figure out how to make it work on conventional ignition never want to go as hi as 7500 myself but the whole wow 11k rpm tach factor would rule

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well, i, uhm, by accident, just the other day saw just about 8,000rpm....i recently swapped in a manual tranny, then converted to rwd, spinning donuts in the rain on potenza's is great fun, but as soon as the tires break traction the red line comes up very very quickly, when your driving real fast in circles your tach isn't the first thing on your mind... :)

 

car seemed fine all the way through the range, still runs great, and i've never once heard the valves float...?

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car seemed fine all the way through the range, still runs great, and i've never once heard the valves float...?

yeah cause you got a thing called a rev limiter. Helps keep the motor from over revving. It'll sounds like the rev is bouncing. Carbed cars usually don't have them like the older ones:)

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... car seemed fine all the way through the range, still runs great, and i've never once heard the valves float...?
Valve float is something that happens more than something you hear. Its just a (usually) gradual inability for the valves to follow the cam, so they just sort of stay partially open, more so as the speed goes up. All that you are likely to notice is a reduction in power as rpm increases, sort of like restrictive intake but more pronounced. Single valve springs are more prone to float because there is nothing to dampen their harmonics; dual and triple springs are often used in critical applications.

 

Lots of engine manufacturers use valve springs whose rates (and harmonics) are selected to cause float before engine speed gets destructive.

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FYI: subaru conrods (the first thing to break due to over-reving) are good for 10,000rpm. Some people using the engines in aeroplanes have verified this. all you need is new valve springs & re-ground cam and your off!
Are the aeroplane users using a gearbox??? Can't imagine a prop spinning much above 3K or 4K rpm.
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