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Need help understanding the divorced t-case mod
Posted 04 February 2004 - 12:14 AM
I'm looking to be able to crawl well with some 26-28" tires. Would this even be a cost effective idea or should i just leave the gearing stock. The wagon came with the D/R and 3.9 in the diffs.
Thanks for helping me out
Posted 04 February 2004 - 12:35 AM
stock tires are 25 inch.
If your going 30+ inch you'd need the t-case.
As for the mod, I'd imagine a driveshaft comes off the T-case to a seperate front diff just like on a pickup
As for the cv joints, I'd imagine there must be a mod to put stub axles on the diff and then the CV's would hook to that..
Rooinator is this correCt?
Posted 04 February 2004 - 12:46 AM
Posted 04 February 2004 - 12:55 AM
I want one now..
sounds easier now
Posted 04 February 2004 - 01:16 AM
Posted 04 February 2004 - 01:19 AM
Also - the crawl ratio is good, yes - so good in fact that you end up breaking other components - like diffs and axles.... the added torque is a lot for the stock soob axles and diff to handle.
Posted 04 February 2004 - 02:21 AM
tranny d-shaft tcase
1.5:1 I--------------I I
_______/ I 2:1 I
,____ I I _____
I \____ __-- I______I----___ _____/ I
front diff d-shaft d-shaft rear diff
how the heck do I make ascII art work? so much for that
Posted 04 February 2004 - 03:53 AM
Posted 04 February 2004 - 04:12 AM
My picture gallery.
Posted 04 February 2004 - 08:46 AM
Posted 04 February 2004 - 09:55 AM
stock tires are 25 inch.
My stock tires were only 23 inch.. my pugs with larger tires are just barely over 25..
I can think of 4 people right off the top of my head with the divorced T-case.. is this the wave of the future?
I would be happy just to find a D/R down here for a reasonable price:mad:
Posted 04 February 2004 - 11:05 AM
If your going to put on 26-28 it will work as a daily driver but your going give up your gearing. Calebz right on the stock tire size.
Do I smell clutch?
I'm doing a 26" but I have a #1000 weight reduction, so I may have a net effective ratio similar to what stock was. I hope:confused:
There are no easy solutions or we would all be doing it. You need to access your needs and see what going to work the best.
82 Summer, almost wired...........
01 Forester, bent but not broken
Posted 04 February 2004 - 11:07 AM
The idea behind the transfer case mod is to lower the crawl ratio. If you are not into REAL hardcore off-roading it will not do much for you except drain you bank acct. It will add more pressure to the rest of the drive train. But it allows you to basically get out and walk next to your rig on the trail while it is running/driving.
Posted 04 February 2004 - 01:10 PM
I plan on using 27-28" Swampers or Goodrich Mud Terrains. Whichever is cheaper. I'll still probably be ble to climb a Geo with this setup and my D/R. Buddy of mine when told to watch it or i'll climb his Fiero, "If you can ever catch up to me." Damn, the truth hurts. I need a WRX engine to stuff in my 88. Problem solved.
Posted 04 February 2004 - 03:31 PM
Posted 04 February 2004 - 03:36 PM
in the normal sooby transaxle, there is an integrated diff inside the case.
Posted 04 February 2004 - 03:36 PM
But for the mod they're talking about, you basically hit it on the head. you take another rear diff and put it up front. its driven by the transfer case.
Posted 04 February 2004 - 06:58 PM
I'm getting more and more into the idea of building my EJ22T powered Suckzuiky axled Justy, but I wish there was just a tranny with no front diff that would bolt up to the EJ motor?
Posted 05 February 2004 - 09:02 AM
Posted 05 February 2004 - 09:25 AM
i have been wondering exactly how that worked too. nice diagram
Posted 15 March 2004 - 02:02 PM
The questions I have regarding this (its good to find a thread on people already trying similar mods) is:
1. Without knowing too much about the Soob setup...what happens to the existing splined outputs on the front end that are no longer used?
I am assuming/hoping that I can get the original equipment to output in both H/L out the rear driveshaft and feed that into the t-case. Is there a thread indicating the ability to get a rear output only out of the stock drivetrane?
Meaning: I want the existing front output to cease spinning. I want all available torque/power going out the rear.
2. Also - the tranny is slipping out of 3rd gear. My assumption is there is some kind of detent spring or other retention mechanism that is worn or needs adjustment/replacement. Can anyone reference a writeup/solution/thread on this?
Posted 15 March 2004 - 04:04 PM
If I understand things correctly....
Since you don't use the front transaxle (consequently they would take no power away from the engine) all output power would be transfered to the driveshaft.
My suggestion is use the old transaxle cups as a PTO for a generator/welder or Winch? A PTO could be real handy along the trail? Mudrat has some ideas on this.
On your tranny...
I have the same problem in first when I lug it. Folks on the board have told me that its most likely a syncro that is messed up and causing the problem.
82 Summer, SubaruHummer.......
01 Forester, Jealous.........
Posted 15 March 2004 - 04:19 PM
I have a feeling I'll be hanging out a while as we get into this project full-force.
It should be obvious...but I'll admit it anyway. I have very little familiarity with Soobs.
Is your suggestion to just run it in 4wd and ignore the front outputs? Is this how others have done it? For some reason I thought getting it to run in RWD only would be ideal. I suppose if I were to really think about it...so long as there was not a center diff...its no big deal.
I was hoping for an easy fix on the tranny. I suppose in this case it is good to have access to a host of donor vehicles...
Are there any links with some creative use of the extra outputs? (perhaps Mudrat has a site?)
Posted 15 March 2004 - 04:46 PM
Another way to do it is to use an automatic tranny, and tweak the innards of the tranny to get 100% power to the rear. Mudrat did that with the beast - it had an EJ engine and auto tranny...
Posted 15 March 2004 - 06:46 PM
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