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Wondering if anyone hear as messed around with one of these stand alone ecu's from reet wire. Been thinking about installing a turbo on my 93 wagon and was curious if anyone has installed and played with tuning with one of these.

Where is the location to plug in the code reader. Thanks, Larry

Have an 08 Outback, with stock 225 X 55 X 17 tires. I would like to install taller tires to gain a little more ground clearance, and with taller side walls get a smoother ride. How large can I go without causing interference with body or chassis? Thanks, Larry

email for pics. Lmdew2@gmail.com

IF someone can help with this question I can probably speed up the troubleshooting process. In the 1995 Subaru Impreza FSM (Auto trans and differential diagnostics section, page 39-40) it shows 2 connectors that need to be probed to troubleshoot the Duty C. One is the T4 and the other is the B9. I have an idea where the T4 is, but not exactly sure. I did find one connector in the back and on top of the transmission that seems like it could be the T4. The problem is that is only has 13 pins in the 16 channel connector. Not sure if that is normal, whereby the picture shows 16 pins, but in reality there's less? Secondly, the diagram shows that the B9 and T4 connector join together at some point. Looking at the diagram, does that mean that other end of the T4 connector, (where it plugs in),-- is the B9? Of should I be looking for another totally separate connector? Thanks!

ok thanks

I have been spraying cosmoline and woolwax on every surface I can access while I have my drivetrain removed and interior torn apart. The inside of my doors appears to be very rust free, even towards the bottom. Being in the rust belt, I'd like to get ahead of the rust and begin rust prevention asap. My idea was to use a 360 wand to spray woolwax into the doors with the entire power window mechanism in place. Hopefully this will do me two things, one is obviously to prevent corrosion. The second is that woolwax is also a lubricant which, in theory, means it'll get into the window mechanism and lubricate it. My windows are all slow, they work but don't intend to reinstall my A.C. components so having operating windows is a must. I want to avoid removing the glass, as according to the FSM, I also need to remove weatherstripping and I'd like to avoid breaking anything (i.e weatherstripping, glass, plastic clips, etc). Any thoughts on this? Has anyone done this before? (Spraying woolwax without removing anything from the door panel) Thanks :]

If you're lucky, there may still be a timing decal on the underside of the hood, driver's side nearer the front lip of the hood, spelling out the timing & the green connectors. My 87 GL has a lot of blow by oil getting into the IACV on the throttle body. It got stuck at 1900 RPM one day until I sprayed some wd-40 down into the valve to dissolve the excess oil. After that, it would come down to about 1100 then drop down to about 7-800 slowly, which is what it's supposed to do. My guess is that it hydro-locked with oil. I'm thinking of putting some chore girl pad in each L&R valve cover breather hose to cut down on oil mist getting into the the TBI intake boot.

Yeah I get that you want to run the auto until it’s proper dead. But you’re also wasting valuable conversion time - and when (or more importantly), where will the auto let you down again? It’s almost Russian roulette. My thoughts on the matter. If you’re keen on the auto keep at it. I’m no guru and I don’t know if this applies to just one or both autos in the MY and L Series - from reading on here common issues seem to be the pump shaft spline stripping out or the governor device on the side of the transmission under the dome bit giving issues. Cheers Bennie

Those two wires on the driver's side near the strut tower get connected when doing the timing and then disconnected for driving. RPM fluctuations often mean vacuum leaks. Double check your spark plug wires. Clean up the multiple ground connections.

I know swapping it is the ideal route, and I’ve got the whole parts wagon ready. But I think there’s still a bit more life left in this 3AT. It’s not grinding or making any weird noises. I pull out the good old service manual and run some tests this weekend.

When you go to set the ignition timing, there are 3 connectors you must connect before turning the dizzy does anything. There is the green under the dash near the ECU. Then there's the green connector and the white or black connector near the firewall in the engine bay (by the driver side strut tower). These may be a 2 prong connector but there'll be only 1 wire going to the connector. But the two connectors will be right next to each other. Make sure all 3 of these connectors are unplugged. Otherwise the car is in "learning mode" and the ECU is confused. I'm using improper terminology, I don't have my manuals nor my car in front of me at the moment. If they all are disconnected and this is a "yeah, no duh" then it may be something else. This just came to my mind first as to what may be going wrong. :]

Would love to hear from anyone who did rear brakes on 2018+ Want to know how far up Shitz Creek I'll be heading before starting out if this ordeal can be expected (or avoided.)

I've managed to keep the momentum I've built this last few days by removing the hull of the Impreza from my shop. In the interest of clearing the walkway even more I've decided to start preparing to transplant the rear end, which means removing the old one. This turned out to be easier than expected - probably in part because of the practice I had pulling the subframe from the Impreza, and partly because this one had fewer and more accessible bolts holding the thing on. I've learned a few things from today's endeavors. 1) the Impreza fuel tank is too long/wide to fit in place of its original counterpart in the Brat. This "too wide" feature seems to be a trend and for good reason - the wheelbase left to right when measured before removal were a good nine inches different, give or take. As such I'll likely either end up needing to reuse the original tank and run an aftermarket pump (most appealing, easiest on my wallet), or building/locating/modifying a new fuel cell to fit. Whether or not I will be able to use the original tank largely relies on item 2. 2) While the wheelbases are different, it looks like the differentials and housings themselves are very similar in size and shape - so much so that I'm tempted to think they used a modified version of the molds for the diff cases - or at least a very close one. The only visual differences I've been able to scope out at a glance are a few missing bolt holes on the Impreza cases vs. the Brat. There will probably be something more significantly different that I find as I dig into it more. The big "what if" that stands currently is how much fabrication I will need to do in order to get the Impreza differential and subframe parts onto the Brat without causing interference problems with the original fuel tank. If I'm extremely lucky I might even be able to reuse a couple of the mounting bolt holes and front crossmember from the original brat - albeit with a bushing refresh. My plan here is to remove the struts from the Impreza rear end next - which should then allow me to roll the existing crossmember under the Brat bed to check and see what lines up and what doesnt. 3) Lastly and certainly not least - if the preceding items line up, I believe that again with some creative angle grinder surgery I can, similarly to the front end, move the pivot points for the rear suspension inboard far enough to maintain the stock Impreza components without completely custom control arms. Adjustable arms may still be smart and will probably end up being necessary to keep things tracking straight but at least this way I can still drop in off-the-shelf components for an Impreza instead of destroying my bank account. Onto the next one...

Both ‘17 Legacy’s have eyesight and all 3 have electronic parking brakes.

Still digging.

Hey all, since setting the distributor to somewhat proper idle, the check engine light has started flashing. What do I do about this? I assume this is somewhat normal, as moosens alluded to. Normally I would associate this with complete engine death, but it seems to run fine. The green test plug that is mentioned in either the “how to keep your Subaru alive” book or the engine manufacturers guidelines seemed to make it go away, but I think it was a fluke the time I did it. I’m genuinely afraid to take it up the road and back, but when I did it seemed to handle it just fine and went into 4WD too. Thanks, -Xithael

Do you have one?

I don't know for sure but suspect eyesight equipped vehicles need this step. I heard it's a nightmare to replace windshield glass with an eyesight system and it needs some special alignment and setup again. Not something any windshield shop can do.

Changing out the control arm on wife’s 2022 Ascent and looks like the last thing to do is remove one of the studs so it can slide out. However once I loosened it, it’s still in there and can’t pull out. Am I missing something? Not trying to remove and carpet to see what’s happening on the other end. TIA

Mint looking MY! Auto… “just” manual swap it - you’ll thank yourself later. Cheers Bennie

Well, I think the inevitable has happened to the 3AT in my wagon. I took a 100-mile Memorial Day road trip from LA to Oxnard down Pacific Coast Highway, and it ran great as usual. I parked it while we ate at a restaurant, but as soon as I started driving back, it began slipping in first gear. The fluid level is good and doesn’t smell burnt. I was able to manually engage first gear by shifting into first and then back into drive. Where should I start troubleshooting? Transmission vacuum modulator Band adjustment I want to go through some diagnostics and see if it’s something simple. Or is it time to bite the bullet and swap in a 5-speed manual with dual range? The car has 111,000 miles on the odometer—14,000 of those were driven lifted with 27" tires

Sorry for the late update on this Issue. I'm pretty sure the contacts in the ignition switch are bad. I installed a push button that gives the starter a direct 12V upon press. So when the issue pops up, just key on and Push button.

I've replaced the brake-pads (front & rear) on my 2017 Forester. And with no problems. But my Forester has the old-style hand-brake lever - no electronic brake gizmos.

I purchased a Gearwrench scanner tool (GWSMARTBT) for $145. It promises to reset the Electronic Brake System. After that I should be able to clear the codes and dismiss all the warning lights on the instrument cluster. If not, then I will have to remove the EBS gear units, loosen the parking brake tension, and drive the car to a Subaru mechanic with the professional scanner. Worst brake job ever.