DaveT

I have a couple of 2 row all metal turbo radiators. I will be searching for a shop to recore them.

I'd start by finding the schematics for both versions online. See what's different.

There are 2 different lower outlets. The nearly straight one requires a different hose, shaped like an S. The angled outlet uses the same hose as the upper inlet.

Now that the cable is clean. Coat the bare metal with wheel bearing grease. Not gobs, just a film. I still have the original battery wires and clamps on my 25+ year old cars.

Search for "post apocalyptic head resurfacing" or something close to that. It's a big thread. I've done it, it works.

EA82 turbo = troubles. If you modded a Honda like the wagon, would it still be as reliable? Probably not.. Mods that increase power, speed, get you into places you can't with stock, etc. usually trade off reliability and economy... Not saying don't do them, or that they aren't fun, but they are a trade off..

For parts of the sheet metal you can get at both sides, a big piece of bar stock held against the side opposite you need to hammer on helps flattening kinks out.

I took a compressor out of a small window a/c, and put 1/4" flare fittings on the input and output lines. I can use it to pump refrigerant out of a system and store it in an empty refrigerant can. It will also pull a vacuum good enough to use for a/c work. I have to monitor it's temperature, limit run time when used as a vacuum pump, but it does the job.

I'm not sure about what to do with the head bolt as far as remove and replace. But if yo decide to try to remove it, get the block up to near normal operating temperature with heaters and a heat gun. Meat thermometer or something to monitor. I have removed many very stuck bolts intact with that method. It has not failed. Once a bolt is snapped, my next trick is weld a nut or washer to the stub, then unscrew. This I learned before the heating the block trick, but it works once the damage has been done. I mention these also to possibly save others trouble if they read this before snapping a bolt... The drilled through headbold may fail where it was drilled, so you may be removing the head....

They should.

Sounds like a bad / dirty connection.

I'd try to fix it. Get it apart. Probably need a radiator, I'm surprised it did break.

I'm pretty sure the green connectors didn't set the 35 code. A loose connection is likely to set a code. My Solenoid mod: http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/solenoid.html My exhaust mod: http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/exhaust.html

I had one fail for high nitrous. Bad Catalytic converter. You can test the cats. Run the car for a good drive at normal temps. Measure the temp of the exhaust pipes where it enters and exits the catalytics. The temp should be something like 100 degrees hotter on the outlet side of each cat. Find one the same or cooler, there's your problem.

If the plugs are wet with gas, could it just be flooded? About 1 time every 8 years I've had one of my cars goof up and flood. Hold gas pedal on the floor while cranking. For kind of a while. And it clears. I don't know for sure with the newer models.

It has been my experience with the Hitachi alternators that the brushes last about 150,000 miles. The failure shows up gradually until the battery is so low on charge the car won't start. Alternator light didn't come on. Once I caught one when the light was glowing very dimly at night, before I switched on the lights.

Just move the pressure sensor to the new pump.

Grease would stay there and protect against rust a lot longer. Synthetic grease won't thick a lot if it gets cold where you are. The rusting is the problem, as it tends to expand the metal and bind up in the hole.

There isn't a lot to the oil pump. Guessing you have an EA82 engine. A couple of o rings, on special, and a shaft seal. For EA82 engines, from at least 86 through 93, the pump is the same. So you can try looking under Loyale also. The only thing I ever needed to do was reseal the oil pumps.

IF it has not been run hot with low coolant, it might be only a failing intake gasket. Get OEM intake gaskets, no sealant. They are made almost like headgaskets, reinforced so they don't fall apart. Are made to shift a little with expansion also.

More specifically, how many miles on the timing belt? They are supposed to be changed at about 100,000miles. Over that, you're on borrowed time.

Usually (in my experience anyway) an engine with everything correct except no fuel will fire for a second or few on carb cleaner or starting fluid.

The plastic cover just pops off. It shouldn't be too tricky to figure out a lever or cord. The linkage is right there.

over 100K on timing belt = asking for trouble.

Change mileage is about 100K. 13 hours? if you never did one before, and everything goes wrong, and you do it in the dark. Change all of the idlers and tensioner. Waterpump.... Many do change them. They seem to go more than 100K, but will it go over 200K?