Durania

I thought you were drunk taking a leak.

Did you do the radiator cap?

Oh my dear lord...

I'm with Wally. I would gladly pay someone who is experienced to replace my windshield. Being my luck, first rain storm I get the floor board would be full of water.

Would be really tough for me to go to an 05 Legacy with the EJ25. You could always find a set of low mileage heads for that thing.

Write down the code and post it for us to troubleshoot.

When you see water coming out of the other hose and not coolant. I will do about 2 or 3 minutes per hose.

I want this in 1080p!

That is great!

Nope, that's a different generation of Legacy.

I learned something. I got on my RSD wholesale account and read the description of their clutch. http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Exedy-OEM-Replacement-Clutch-Subaru-Models-inc-2006-2011-WRX-2005-2009-Legacy-GT Says: " 2005-2009 Legacy GT requires the use of a 2006-2007 WRX flywheel for proper fitment."

My RS hated the AC too. Luckily, it had a sunroof that when you crack it open an inch pulled a ton of air straight in.

I had luck replacing a faulty radiator cap after flushing heater core. Used a tappered fitting used to repair a garden hose. Fits right in a heater core line.

I got faith you can get this straightened out man. Lot of good guys on here with valuable knowledge and experience.

I have one on my 95 Outback. You probably cant even get one from the dealer. You gotta do what you need to.

I had some weird stuff like that happen with my Brat alternator would go out.

Good job getting it replaced. Glad you got it sorted out.

You need to get it from Subaru. The parts store cables are inferior.

Fusible links are in a gray box behind the battery on the left side of the engine bay. It will have 3 fusible links inside of it.

I would love to see an in car video if you get around to it.

You need to double check the wiring on your headunit. I pray you used a harness adapter.

Thanks Jason.

You should really listen to GD and take him up on his advice.

The problem I had was the clamp that attaches the neck to the hose going into the tank was at a an angle that only allowed for partial contact with my screw driver and nut drivers. It made the job annoyingly longer to complete.

The reason I said that is because people usually just slap turbo kits on without doing the correct changes to accommodate the boost. The NA engine has a compression ratio that is higher than a turbo engine. I hope you have a reliable boost gauge to monitor PSI with. That thing overboosts, it will go BOOM.