subiemech85

3 hours off, 30 days + to replace, 3 hours on

I started with dad's 83 ea81 4wd dr 4spd sloppy shifter knocking lifter clacking cv axles, with california emissions, and now have my 85 ea82 5spd dr 4x4 de-emissioned trashwagon 7, that I take everywhere I want to go the way I drive in "questionable terrain" is run it in fwd, when you see trouble, STOP, reverse, and 4lo, saves your rump roast

no if the left breaks, it won't run, drives dist if right breaks, it will still run change them after they break even on the side of the road

this is not your typical jumpy tach bump for the day crew

I have to graduate that day, might make a jy run

And I wasn't on the list? Subiemech85 uniquet2? eyesore? milesfox, zannydook?

it suffers the symptoms when the lights or blower is on, otherwise it is fine :banghead

I'm guessing manual trans gremlins are asking for more oil, or a bearing is going

yes, it does belong in the marketplace, as long as it is for sale or want to buy subaru if not subaru, then it goes in the off topic the jy around here doesn't have one, I checked for myself

1. find a chilton's manual 2. read the section on how to disable

no actually I was able to make it up over 1/2 way up, but got in an area where I was too close to the steep ditch to risk it and I drove in rwd for about 2 months

seat belt or air bag sensor, depending on years

what's goin on? should I put on the aftermarket universal tach? ea82 carb

tried to move in fwd, but NOTHING happened, just the little bare output shaft spun had to go up non plowed snow full driveway in forward, but couldn't, had to do it in reverse, no problem trying to go up mud road 6,000 rpm in 4lo, 1st gear, forward, finally found someone in a muddy truck to pull me up the road, thank you!

no it doesn't! rwd in mud and snow sucked, reverse was better than forward

you may also try gentle heat, such as from a soldering torch

pressure in a 134a system lo is 13, and hi is 180

ea81 turbo, 4x, manual is NOT an option car has almost no go at all, max 25, floored!, it shifts, doesn't move unless you put it in go with engine at 3,000

the bandaids go on your ears, and scrapes invest in an engine lift drive it until it blows if it's broke already, does it matter if it breaks more?

all of the "new gen", whatever that is, looking to "upgrade" for old gen, I would go with my 85 gl wagon dr, and power everything

what is the most durable model for pulling, offroad, and hauling capacity?

top is fro the clutch, bottom is for the hh what's wrong with your hood? mine flies open at 30, done it twice, once was not good enough for me, now I MAKE SURE it's shut

if it is carb, hook it up to the hot air intake, use flex pipe, and a coffee can, and your imagination

as there has been much controversy, I would like to know where the ski wagon decals and brat stripes were applied, such as in the pic of this brat:, the one I am considering buying

just another reason to buy a brat - such as the one I am considering, dad highly opposed the most non-stuck 4x fun is down at the river bottom, saw water, stopped, put it in 4lo, and backed out no problem, thank you fwd! also the magnet mount on the roof is the only way to go