subiemech85

use a siphon gun and suck out the fluid, turn crank with socket or by pulling belts, starter may be stuck, battery may be weak

thank you for finding it! :drool: 1. could you check on sending my way the clock, rear lsd if 3.9 capable, radio, trip computer, dingus tool for removing something -- part of factory tool kit, plug wires if origional, vac guage from floor, tools from seats/floor, looks like there are several screwdrivers, wrench, and finally how about more pics?

just the type of place I like to go to, just think milkshake made with whole milk and a big sandwich with cheesebread or cheese balls or cheese sticks

are you sure it's not the noise filter? with one end to coil and one end to ground? is it a carb? accel 8140c

tis merely but a small flesh wound I like it felt like taking the shortcut on the "snowmobile" trail on my way home yesterday, it was fun, used 4x once when I felt it slipping just a little bit

bumping this is serious, and someone should know the answer, if you do, please respond

from doing heavy duty bearings while spinning hub, tourque nut to 200ftlb, loosen, torque to spec

a mangled fan, especially the ac one check relays, connections, lines

you just aren't using your imagination enough! heads, bolts

Anyone driving a street-driven car without manifold-connected vacuum advance is sacrificing idle cooling, throttle response, engine efficiency, and fuel economy, probably because they don't understand what vacuum advance is, how it works, and what it's for - there are lots of long-time experienced "mechanics" who don't understand the principles and operation of vacuum advance either, so they're not alone. back to the origional question, the vac advance turns the statour, the 2 prong thing that goes on the outside of the reluctor - the 4 point wheel in the middle that spins, in a clockwise direction\ manifold vac is beneficial at low speed when the engine is not running fast enough for the mechanical advance to function, and when the vac decreases at hi speed, the mech advance takes over

at the bottom of the shock, there is an adjusting cam you turn AFTER the coil spring is compresed where is the front adjuster?

will it work properly, what's needed?

there might not be a vac line for your heat control, may be just for recirc? you can remove the egr system, and block off openings

drive it until it breaks, stop when it violently shakes the car if you continue, you risk breaking brake line, and other parts in its path of destruction rebuilt with new stub and neoprene boots

GD, YOU may be wrong "It is NOT ok to run a full time vacuum line (from the manifold, etc) to it, as this will throw off your timing in big way." I chose to run vac line from dist to manifold, idle quality is much improved, runs better, and have had no problems the vac advance provides about 20* you must choose where to connect the vac line depending on your needs the two options on the carb are: 1. little vac at idle, with vac increasing as does engine speed or 2. vac decrease as engine speed increase

yeah, I had fun in 4lo http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=14640

warped intake manifold, bad cap and thermostat

they don't that I know of, try lislie, mac, snapon, otc, tigertool, proto, cornwell

I used "royal purple purple ice" in my cad ht 4.1 with aluminum block and cast iron heads, and it was happy if you are really concerned with your coolant use "delo" coolant, can explain if desired

change the oil to JOHN DEERE BREAK IN OIL it is specificaly fourmulated to help the engine break in

a 640 HYDRO diesel wide front with westendorf loader IH tractor, about as rare as a fiberglass brat cover

check your grounds and wiring and make sure that the correct bulbs are installed

the rad fan should turn on when you disconnect one wire on the sensor with 2 spade connectors, with the car truned on the climate control fan is controlled by the push button controller, then the speed switch, sounds like yours is bad, but try other positions bilev, def the vent button was only in non ac cars you can easily remove the blower motor to find out if it still works, beware of screws that like to hide speed 4 is supposed to be a direct current feed to the blower motor, bypasses the resistors there are two fuses for the blower motor in the fuse box, both are blue and right next to each other in the top row middle, iirc been there, done that pm or post if you need help welcome to the board

had to "test" the wagon's abilities hill holder held, but couldn't start going back up from current position had to take a pic, but doesn't show the steep angle well you don't see the "easy" way to get down there went down there to pick up trash by the busy hwy 17 eyesore knows where this is!

prom is at 7 pm, will have to leave about 4 pm sat will head out west fri eve asap