3eyedwagon

Yeah man. I believe zip ties are the tool for this job. Just tie it to something that keeps it away from moving parts, and tie it tight enough that it won't rub back, and forth inside the tie job you've done. I'd bet this is how even major Baja teams do it. I know it's how I secured the brake lines on my $20,000 four wheeler. If it works; don't fix it!

We may have to go check this out Jeff.

I think we may have to start calling this one your "calico wheeler wagon"...

Like TheBeastIDrive said; most people just use them as cheap transportation. Not everyone is really into modding them, or even have that much brand loyalty. We see alot of them around here that just have low incomes, and use them as their cheap transport or a solid first car. It's kinda like the motorcyclists waving at eachother thing. Just because we both are riding motorcycles; that doesn't mean that I need to wave at you!

+elevetyfivemillllllllllllllion I like the look of the wide wheel flares, but other than that; that car is nothing but another fall in line with everyone else styling concept. People say it looks like other cars because it does just that. If it were debadged It would take a real automotive enthusiast to pick that out as a Subaru in a parking lot at the mall. There is just nothing daring or distinctive about it, but I suppose that's what the masses really want, and I wouldn't be a bit suprised if it sold like crazy. It should do a good job blending in with other upper middle sedans of the same size. They just better pick the right colors for it because we all know that that's what sells cars anyways....:-\

Not to talk for him, but I think he told me that those are 14" six lugs off of a Dodge D50.

Are you talking about a 3rd gen wagon, or a 2nd gen? There is quite a bit of difference as the wheel openings on a 2nd gen are smaller than on a 3rd gen. The 2nd gens will still clear the tires with the same ammount of lift, it just takes alot more swinging with the big hammer.

You're going to need to cut the fenders quite a bit, and beat on the body alot to clear those tires. They will hit on the rear of the front fenderwell ALOT, especially while turning under load, or off camber. The rear is going to need some massaging and beating as well. It all depends on how much you want beat on it, but I can tell you; it's definitely not going to be close to stock anymore. I have 4.5 inches on an EA81 wagon, and the front took quite a bit of hammering to clear 27s.

Hey CF, aren't you a 2nd gen guy? I thought I'd seen you always sporting the gen 2s. Just wondering, because if so; I wouldn't try this style suspension lift on a gen 2. The shorter axles just get too stressed at such angles, in my opinion anyways. You'd really need to do a full lift to get much life out of your axles. Go for it on a 3rd gen, you know how plentiful they are. Save the gen 2s for picking up the ladies!

Ditto. If you want a good snow tire; these are it. They are without a doubt the best offroad snow tire in that size range. I would even challenge that they may very well be the best of any size range. They also handle other conditions fairly well despite their all terrain design. Plus, they are great on the road.

From what I've seen the cars with the straight cut blocks don't really have horrible camber once their suspension settles from the initial tampering with. The angle cut blocks like in that drawing are just as simple to make, but are a bit harder to install. I would reccomend cutting angled blocks if you are planning to use the car on roads alot, they'll save a little wear on your tires. As for these "pulling through"; you are dealing with 2x2 steel square tubing to drop the 3 mounting positions of the struts a whopping 2 inches. Compare this to the numerous cars with 2, 4, and even 6 inches of lift using the same material, but, instead lifting vital engine, and transmission crossmembers. Each time you double the length of the lift block; you effectively quadruple the force being exherted on the bolting point. In short, I wouldn't worry much about dropping the struts using square tubing. Everyone out there with their entire drivetrain dropped x ammount of inches has alot more to worry about. I think we'll all be ok.

I'd kind of expect this stuff from a place that has an aisle devoted to air fresheners, and steering wheel covers. Nipper was right in what he said about their gamble that you will lose the receipt, or sell the car, etc. That's the only reason that "lifetime warranties" are viable for companies like this. If you keep your paperwork tight, and they can't site any literature proving you wrong; you should be ok. It's just a matter of how many people you are willing to yell at for a $150 radiator. That's the other thing they count on, that you will eventually become frustrated, and then they are out 1 customer. That's nothing to a "big name" like them. Those stores aren't designed for years of repeat business anyways. I suggest finding a higher quality parts house to deal with. Like a place with countermen that have been there more than 6 months, and actually know the policies.

6mm = 0.236" or roughly 7.5/32 7/32 is about as close as you are going to get using tools measured in an inch, and sold at most normal stores. If you want to be super duper nats @$$; get the tool Truckerman was talking about. Jeff has a couple, and they are cooler than the other side of the pillow.

and 7 HP at the draw bar.

You are going to have to check on your local laws. I can only inform you as to the rules here in Washington, and I'm not sure where Avondale is. But, if you are here in Washington, or if your state shares the same rules: Yes. You can do "vintage" plates on a car over 25 years old. I know the age of an "antique" or "vintage" car varies from state to state. There are pros and cons naturally with all of the plate types, but since you are only interested in vintage plates; I will only bore you with the details of them. Here in Washington, vintage plates are for use on "restored" vehicles, and to register your car using the vintage plates you must surrender your title for reissuing to match the plate number you have submitted. The license plate number then becomes an "equipment" number, and you are no longer required to pay licensing tab fees. EVER AGAIN!!!!:banana: Some people are usually worried about surrendering their title, but I can tell you from experience; it isn't a big deal. Plus, it is a huge bonus to be able to drive the car whenever you want without having to check that the tabs are current. The only downside to this is that since your car is now technically a "restored class vehicle" you are not legally allowed to use it as a daily driver. It is only supposed to be used to attend car shows, and be driven to be maintained. This means infrequent use. They do not limit you to a certain amount of miles yearly (like they claim with "collector" class plates) and they do not check your odometer yearly. It is on a honor system, but, they do warn the fine is hefty if a cop decides you are driving your "restored" car too often... You do need to find a vintage plate from the correct era that your vehicle would have first been licensed. In Washington that would be a 1974-1980ish design. I believe they were the first series to have reflective material on them. You are only required to have one plate, and it is displayed on the rear naturally. No front plate required. The plate must be inspected at the DOL when you do the paperwork to make sure it is in satisfactory condition, and is of the correct era. You can find a printout of what plates correspond to what era at your state DOL, or their website. These plates are also sold at auto swapmeets, but, expect to pay $50 for one in decent shape from your era. Sets go for more. Hope this helps. Good luck!

That's actually the method used on the lockup tc's in 9c1 Caprices. You can either drill a hole, tap it, and use a flush mount plug, or weld it. The remanufactured ones are often drilled, and rewelded so I doubt it would be much of a problem. This guy sounds like he's doing it in car though, so I'd probably tap it, and use a flush mount plug.

The whole point of ABS is that it should never let the brakes fully "lock up". No matter how "hard" you slam on the pedal, the ABS systems seperates that action by using pressure bleedoffs, and proportioning valves. It uses magnetic rings and sensor to detect if a brake disc has come to a stop, meaning a "lock up". If it detects this, it releases the brake lightly, and increases pressure to other wheels. It "surges" line pressure to each caliper, creating a pulsation braking feel. If anything, a wheel should only skid for less than a second, and then return to "thresh hold" braking. So, if you were under your scenario: The wheels would only lock momentarily, and then the system would release pressure to the point they were no longer locked up, and continue to "thresh hold" brake until you were at a stop. All of this is supposedly happening far quicker than any of our brains can react. I think it's all BS. We need drivers with more training, and to stop relying on gadgets to save our ignorant lives. Sure, ABS helps a bit, but I'd rather be a talented driver without ABS than an idiot with it.

Build it yourself. It's always the best way to go, for SO MANY REASONS... Not to speak poorly of anyones product, but of all the lifts being manufactured; nobody makes a lift specifically for YOUR car. Every lift is going to need to be a little unique, because the cars you are installing them on are probably just a bit different than the ones the lift manufacturers used to design their lifts. "Kits" are what model cars come in. Build it yourself, you'll be far better off.

Gearing will make virtually anything "possible", at the sacrifice of vital drivetrain components. But, I'm wondering how "fun" something that weighs over 2000lbs is going to be with a bone shattering 16 hp ( probably rated at the crank when new, run on proper diesel fuel) propelling it down any kind of obstacle. We have a Kubota B21, the funnest thing it does is spread gravel.

more speed

I looked at this car at Apple Blossom in April/May of of 2006. It was for sale, parked at the local WalMart. I remember it had a pretty beefy spare tire carrier swing mount on the rear bumper. I believe it was going for around $2200 at the time, a little more than I wanted to spend. It did look well built, if a little heavy. And it has a pretty schnazzy paint job

Expanding Foam Eh??? You aren't going to try to put an outboard on the back and cross the English channel are you?

There's only one way to get that good..... alot of f'd up body panels:o Reminds me alot of the EVOC courses. They are alot of fun in a V8 powered, 4000 lb., RWD, American made boat....

Just a helpful tip; you should really take a look at those guides. Especially if it's a high mileage motor, and what 22r isn't? He gave you some good info there. The guides wearing out is what allows the chain enough play to wear the backing plate. Then you lose coolant, and wipe out your new head.... Seen it happen twice. No bueno.

I figured that was the case. If you want simple mods for improved towing performance, and getting more out a gallon; I would make that spacer my number one priority. They are by far the best return per dollar bolt on piece. I've found that the AIR RAIDS by Powerade are the most complete setups. They are the best about containing all the hardware, as you will need some specialized bolts for everything. Other stuff depends on which air filter system you have. If you have an air cleaner like a normal carb; there aren't really many things to do to it. Just slap in a K&N, and go. Or put together a cold air intake setup on the cheap. But, if you have the larger, box style air intake system that takes a flat filter element; there are quite a few improvements that can be made to that system.