MilesFox

you can do it quite easily. you would have to source parts from an earlier or less optioned model. parts from a 2nd gen legacy may work. you will have to swap door panels, or make a hole for the window crank. perhaps if you ahd a donor it would be less labor to swap whole doors. roll the windows up to remove and install the track hardware, it is rather accessible with only 10mm tools and a screwdriver.

if you had vacuum schematics, you could figure it out. the lines on either cansiter would be the same on the engine side. just swap all the hoses. i was able to use the canister in an 86 ea82 coupe with an ej22 from o1 impreza in a swap, using 2 schematics and imagining the flow of vapors by following the lines and identifying the tank vent, the evap solenoid, and vacuum, and hose parts from an ej22e with canister under-hood

[quote name=ubtripn;1052586 First' date=' I was wondering what I can expect for MPG in 2 wheel drive on the freeway.? Second - why should I never shift into all wheel on dry pavement? This 86 has a carb, not efi. No a/c and is a stick shift. I really feel lucky finding her. Any info would be greatly appreciated, thanks![/quote] 1.towards 30 mpg if the carb is working properly. you would get better than 30 in a FWD model with different gearing. You should run on 185/70 13 tires for 4wd, a little more gearing for highway, vs 171/70 2. there is no center differential. it is the same effect as a RWD car with a live axle, it will crab during turns. With subaru 4wd, the front and rear axles are engaged together with no differential to allow a difference in rotation. also, the 4wd should be engaged or disengages with the steering wheel strait, never while turning. you can run the 4wd at highway speeds in any condition that is not dry road. heavy rain is fine. there is no speed limit for 4wd, and you can engage/disengage on the fly by letting off the throttle

bigger brakes, yes, ea82 with slight mods. wrx brakes, no, not with that lug pattern. But, you could convert to 5 lug and find a similar wheel with 5x100 lugs, and 17" for 4 pot brakes, or 15" for 2 pot brakes.

be happy with the car now the way it is at least for now, or you will never be happy with anything. the car may seem disappointing compared to other cars, but there is a lot there to amaze you yet. it's a different cup of tea with these cars:burnout:

This stuff can be done, and it would be interesting to do, but it is only worth it if you have donor cars laying around, plenty of experience, and then only for the sake of novelty. Realistically a weber carb on your carb manifols with an spfi longblock(higher compression), open exhaust, advanced timing would give a goo kick in the pants. IF you blow a head gasket, that is a good chance to go with an spfi block, even with your same heads. the spfi engine block is a direct swap in with no mods, and the carb manifold fits the same. you may have to block off egr ports. this is ultimately the easiest to do for the amount of parts, labor, and expertise required.

fixed! you have an ea71 engine(1.6) hatchback, not to be confused with 3-door (gl coupe, ea82) as far as proper nomenclature for this forum. either or, it is the same cluch disc for either for 1986 when shopping for parts, keywords will be OHV, hatchback, ea81, ea71, not to be confused with OHC ea82 which was made in the same year overlap of 85-87-89 so you don't get the wrong parts! (axles, brakes, suspension, engine)

easy if you have a donor car. hard if you need to find a harness, a crossmember, and other turbo related bits. hardest if going from carb. hardest for 87 unless all your (harness, ecu, manifild) parts are from 87. for the same labor and expense, you can go with any legacy or impreza 2.2 na and still have 25 mpre hp than an ea82t, without all the associated troubles with ea82t. it is the easiast to start with an already ea82t cat to begin with if you are a fan of ea82t

undo the nuts under the crossmember. remove the bolt on the pitch stopper on top of the motor. place a jack under the trans, and you can lift up the engine several inches. the engine is much easier to pull than what is to be expected based on other car layouts.

the temp gauge should be just under halfway for normal reading. MAybe the motor needs to warm up mopre for the thermostat to open. try squeezing the hoses as you throttle the idle between 1500 and 3000 rpm to get it all moving. run the heater full blast, and if the heat is good and hot, you are golden, but if the heat is cool or lukewarm, there is more air to burp out. get in the car and hold the idle up and watch the temp gauge rise. i must warn you that it is possible to overheat the engine during the fill/burp procedure, but only if you are doing it entirely wrong.

fill the block by the upper hose. run the heat full blast. rev up the engine. sometimes you have to force it to burp

cam or crank angle sensors resulting in a no-start. or intermittent no-starts. If thes have not been replaced, it is fairly cheap to do so for safe measure, and anyone with a 10mm can change one themself. This is the only thing i can think of besides a dead battery. otherwise a flat tire is most likely to make you pull over than anything else.

the connector will have a yellow and a blue wire. one of the wires has a stripe, maybe white? (trying to think of it) but it shounds like you found it. people try to hardwaire the fan or do some crazy splices because they don't know this switch just grounds the circuit. did you jump the pins together...what happened?

Bling! perfect 'mood' lights

maybe a spring fell out of the clutch disc itself.

Looks like you will make 250,000 mi as i it is. take into account the suspension for 300,000 miles. the motor should be fine as well as the timing belt. dont wory about valve lash unless you are doing a head gasket. maybe have the trans serviced if it has not been already. if it hasnt happened yet, a wheel bearing may begin to have noise. all of this would be routine maintenance. these cars routinely go 200,000+ miles before anything major acts up

Not a bad idea if you know you wont be leaking it or changing it too soon. It can help with the overall shifting. It would not make 4wd bind less or more likely, as this is directly related to when and where you engage the 4wd. Some folks have used ATF to clear up sticky synchros. Suppose you could run ATF to flush out old fluid, and then go for expensive. my opinion on the higher quality or synthetic fluids is most beneficial for fluid life and oil change duration, basically more miles or years before you have to worry about it again.

i was referring to the 3-door coupe. The XT's, however, came out in 85. The 3-door is based on the sedan for floorpan. The xt is very similar, but the bulkhead is different, and the trans tunnel and floorpan are longer. The rear portion of a wagon floorpan is diferent after the rear wheels where the rollpan comes up and how the bumper attaches.

whoops i misread your question. the coupe was not produced in 85, so therefore no door mounted mirror. But, the a-pillar mount triangle on the coupe has a sharper rake, and therefore a wagon/sedan mirror will not match the a pillar of a coupe, or vice versa. The mirror heads themselves are swappable between mounts.

The doors themselves are the same, other than the threaded inserts for the mirror post. The window, however, is different, since there is no mirror mount in the corner of the door. The newer style mirror mount triangle is swappable to the older door, but you need the matching glass. both the mirror and the glass are specific to 1985 only.

I am now at last down to 2 subarus- my 86 3door coupe swap, and the woman's 94 legacy gt wagon. Although, i am parking the only BRAT in milwaukee for a buddy in my driveway. Desmond sold the only other brat, and i junked out of my rusted out projects and derilect spare parts. I, too, am focusing on other hobbies, such as turntablism, video editing, and finally, a 2nd job

I believe this is the most likely problem, but the least fixed problem due to pulling the cam towers. Rebuilding the cam towers and individually cleaning the lifters is the way to a permanent fix. there is really no advrese effects of driving with a TOD, other than maybe a compromise in performance or fuel economy with delayed valve action, but nothing is wearing out or burning up or being damaged.

This goes along with who is manufacturing what, and which brands will use another's manufactured part with their own name on the box, for the matter of supplying the market in their brand with a part that they are not manufacturing. This is true in the case of a fel-pro subaru enginegasket set, whre there are felpro mfg'd cork and paper gaskets, and some of the specific seals are sourced from mexico/canada(national seal) for cam and main seals, and japan (NOK, oem) for the valve cover gaskets, grommets, and oil pump seals. Felpro makes their own perma-torque head gaskets for ea subarus, buyt supplies fuji heavy mfg'd gaskets for ej22 Of all of the major brands, names that exist after several economies, aquisitions, etc, most of the actual parts/products come from the same handful of manufacturers/factories.

It us possible to unbolt hte intake and swing it out of the way without having to disconnect everything. I would vote for pulling the engine, as you are going to get all that far to realize the head bolts wont clear the frame to remove the heads without undoing all the motor mounts and jacking up the engine. from that point, it is 4 bolts to just remove the whole lump.

It would probably be easier to use the pushbutton to actuate the 4wd with the same mechanisms, and retain the lever for the hi-lo selection