MilesFox

Sweet!. We should make a sticky, or post this in the USRM

You should not have to use RTV on the valve cover grommets if you have new ones. The bolts are shouldered, that they will snug down metal to metal before squishing out the rubber grommets. Tighten to snug and you are good. MAke sure to use a pick or razor to remove all the old sealent fromt he groove on the bottom of the cam tower. Use the ultra grey, or some anearobic (hondabond, etc), but do not use regular blue or black rtv. You can use a dab to hold the o-ring in place. The o-ring is important, as that can be potential for a major oil leak/pressure loss It is not necessary to apply ultra grey to the head side, just the carrier side. Fit the parts together and install the bolts hand tight. Let it set up, and then torque in a radial pattern, starting from the middle and working out.

Look behind the driver side of the center console under the dash. There is a rubber fitting that contains nylon vac lines form the firewall, and it plugs into the door actuator next to the heat adjust cable. See if it has been knocked loose. You may have to drop the kick panel to get a good look at it.

Correct me if i am wrong, but i believe the ea82 mpfi non turbo engine has a 9.5 compression, also

There is an o-ring between the block halves on the top of the engine. MAybe this could be your problem? It is one way to introduce coolant to the crankcase. This is just an idea. pressure check can help prove or disprove this. Put your ear to the fill tube while the system is pressurized, and listen for steam. You could run the car to operating temperature, and then turn it off to do this.

We have ea82's here in milwaukee, so possibly we may need them someday if a project comes along. Try not to throw them out right away. Are the cracks between the valves? What other ea82 stuff do you have?

Maybe the water pump is losing efficiency. I helped 'TheLoyale' (Tom) find a 500 dollar legact in the alley in my neighborhood, and tried to add coolant. The seller said the water pump leaked. We tried for over an hour to bleed the air out of it, and after we think it was full, it would get warm, thinking the thermostat would open and the rad would get warrm. The rad stayed cool for the most part, while the upper hose was hot. The next day, we drove it the 5 blocks back to my place. The water pump seized and took out the timing belt. We put on a used pump and belt, and tom drove it home that day. How many miles on this car?

So i was going to do this today: http://www.videojug.com/film/how-to-remove-rust But all of the running water is frozen! I ran out of welding wire trying to finish my trailing arms. I got under the car to knock off some of the undercoating and the surface rust. The rear floor seams are rusting out. Maybe I will go as far as pulling the rear seats and carpet up to get at all this. But only if i have all the materials to go back together with it. I am starting to contemplate whether or not it is worth that much effort, though. My decision to remove the interior will be based on how much room around the shop i have to keep all the stuff from getting nasty and ruined.

RUST, and the idea of keeping the car forever. That and rust. Oh yeah, the rust-belt of the midwest. Roadsalts. and, of course, RUST!

There is enough mentions of the axle nut and washers in most axle/wheel bearing discussions. The washer does more than the cotter pin.

Although someone can look up the info, pull a bolt, or go here and ask, it doesn't hurt to answer if you immediately know the question. And, really, it shouldn't hurt to ask. My comments about generation was not targeted at the original poster, but just a general observation of mine, since i know a lot of folks 5-10 yrs younger than my self, and the generation gaps are narrower. My comment has relevancy for the mere fact that a question was posted on an internet forum, which i answered:-p

The internet makes this sort of thing instantly available, among other things, for the current generation. This is why there is Google, and Wiki-Pedia. But for these people, Google and Wiki-pedia have always been around, and is the first resort.

It would be ideal to space everything equally. You will retain the same suspension geometry, as you raise the body from the car from the suspension assembly.

Make sure the washer is not on backwards. It is bowl shaped, with the convex side against the nut.This is important for holding the torque on the cone washer. Do some reading, and inspect your hardware!

This is my '86 GL coupe Runabout. EA82, Hitachi carb.

make sure the TC does not come off the engine when you pull the motor. Otherwise, you have to turn and push to seat the TC before bolting the engine, to not ruin the pump.

12mmx1.25 thread. This thread is the lesser common pitch you will find at hdwe stores, and finding them more than 2 inches long can be tricky. It's the same thread as the lug nuts and wheel studs. I built a lift with blocks using the body bolts to mount the lift to the body, and leftover suspension bolts from parts subarus and lugnusts to bolt the suspension to the lift blocks.

Based on the firing order, each cylinder bank fires almost simultaneously, as you will have 2 cylinder exhaust pulses at near the same time out of one port for that bank, alternately between the ports. So if you think about it, you essentially have 2 inline twins on a common crank. Each side of the header would be tuned to each bank, and both sides would collect at the end of the exhaust pulse, and after the collector, it's all muffler and tailpipe. Making the exhaust in an X configuration, at the same lenght as the cat in the factory y pipe(collector), you would have the same dynamic velocity/pulse/scavenge effect either way. From there you will hae a larger dump pipe, or 2 smaller dual outlets. And this, having 2 outlets gives you the same volume of flow, but the skinnier pipes keep the velocities up. In a true dual setup, you can run individual runners with no balance pipe, if not for the consideration of cats and o2 sensors. This is what i come to with my understanding of exhaust dynamics, and with subarus. A cam will affect the engines performance curves, but the exhaust piping itself is just fluid dynamics all on its own, regardless of the cam

maybe the cable pulled out of the back of the cluster, and the spinning shaft is rubbing against it. It is possible to pull the cable out and not know it when servicing heater hoses or anything else in that area, you would only have to pull the cable an inch to pop it out. You can inspect the cable by removing the instrument cluster bezel, and the section of dashboard behind it pulls up, and from there, you should be able to access the cable. This is easiest to do with your arms in the window while you view from outside the windshield, unless you can cram your head in there.

Well, Tom, if Jon has the tool, we should look for where to find ss line

Nice!

I would consider this for my 3door. I already have all the brake lines removed to use as a template. once i can source some ss 3/16 tubing and metric fasteners, then i will be in business. Otherwise, my project is ready to go with that once i hae the parts. If you can source the tubing yourself, you can bid a price to me what you would do it for(and use mine as a template to do everyone else)

coolant temp sensor?

You will find it does the same thing when you use the turn signal. The pump is quite east to get at to replace. Sometimes the mounting screws twist off, and then you have to get creative. I would tell you to take the sound as heed to possibly replacing the fuel pump. But i will also tell you, that it is not entirely bad, since i have seen it in several cars that ran just fine. I would consider this, at least, a common occurrence.

I would suspect a short to ground. Especially if lights remain on. At least for the lights, they are hot at the bulb and ground at the switch. And the horn/clock/hazard circuit is hot all the time, independent of the key. Good luck!