MilesFox

actually older model soobs circa 1982 had the fuel pump under the hood.

do you have a mechanical or electronic disty? basically is the cap held on with screws or clips. does it have one pigtail with a white plastic plug, or a long pigtail with a big fat plug and 2 wires to the coil? describe the air box, does it have a small MAF withy a black top or a big cast metal one as in the flapper style?

looks like the same sti strut brace someone just posted about thinking it was modified. but seeing the same thing in 2 different pics/posts there must have been an ea82 sti bar the black one looks to be dirty. now thats a brocure showing a new car with mud on it, under the hood!

they wonty spin if they have mud caked in them. so whats the point? chrome trim rings do nicely, now thatis subaru classic.

ok one thing about the clutch, please try this before you assume the clutch is bad the cable may be too tight. if the cable is too tight it acts as if the pedal is partially depressed. back off the adjustmet nut till its floppy. tighten by hand enough to take the play out of the fork, and maybe a turn or 2 to adjust pedal height. try this first before tearing the clutch apart. how many miles? i stress this because a guy had me fix a slipping clutch. we tore the tranny out and dude realixzed he forgot his new parts. i looked at the existing parts and they were new lookin!. sanded off the glaze and put it back together. re adjusted the cable and no problem with the same parts. cable was too tight from whoever installed the parts. report back withy your findings

good news and "bad" news: the good news is i have the 200 dollar job lined up for tomorrow or the next day, so i can pay my ins. the "bad" news is i have an interview at the u-haul for a job. if it turns out u haul takes me right away i will have to take that as priority so i can draw an income and put towards rent, and then plan for a free week afterwards to make a trip.

yeah put me in for some fake rust as well. sumulated flaking clearcoat and the illusionary flat tire! maybe there is a market or this stuff "performance low slung exhaust" as in falling off spinning bent rim fake busted headlight, or fake headlight water(to prove river fording) anyway i would be in the market for some fake wet grass, since golf courses are risky business

yeah under boost its possible you will boost past the valves, but the mpfi cams will still work to run the mpfi ecu is the same as turbo, the only thing different is a pin grounded to identify it as turbo or non

i would entertain the idea of going out there to fix it, how far would that be from milwaukee, wisconsin? its possible i could come up with a tranny here if i go east to do this work and tow some subarus across states anyway i would do it for the price of gas and include the tranny with a price should i get the tranny myself milesfox@yahoo.com

#1 cylinder is hte front piston on the passenger side. firing order is 1-3-4-2 rotation is counterclockwise, #1 on the cap is the one towards the back to the right of the clip/screw, and in the general direction of the brake master cylinder hope this helps maybe you got some wires backwards. dont forget to connect the coil wire!

hey the stock pcv valve on the car can be cleaned up as well with carb cleaner, so it rattles nicely. when replacing or cleaning the pcv valve, dont forget to factor in the hoses and alltheir routings too. they will clog up and harden much like a coronary artery so to speak. clean the hoses out or replace them if it comes to replacing the hoses snandard 5/8" heater hose will fit just right, you may need regular hose clamps gor the valve covers. run with enough length tsop you dont kink in the bends. chances are your "blowby past the rings" is really pcv related instead, if its internal its more likely valve seals

yo i have been communicating with jim about this towing business. im down for that so long as i can come up with 75 bucks by the 23d to cover insurance, if im going to be towing cars and all. anyway the tow dolly has new lights and wiring and i repaired the broken fender mount. jim i parted the new water pump you gave me for the rx for the sedan, since the rx is sitting all busted up right now, so that will put my car back to spec for towing. i figured out my alignment i need to turn the passenger tie rod out a few turns and replace the driver side front tire as its worn on the outside. the sedan tows really good but i can see 4mp 3rd gear in some really hilly country. but she maintains 55 up wisconsin hills mostly in 5th and sometimes 4th. downshift and slow early, brakes are only to come do a stop so its all shifting for control how much would a legacy weigh compared to an rx on a dolly loaded down with parts, 3500-400 lbs i presume i was towing in all with the sedan anyway i got 200 buks waiting for me as soon as i get to racine to fix a rear main seal in a subaru i had replaced a hub on earlier, so that should put me up if i get there within this week. if uhaul calls me i'll just tell them i wil be ready to start in 2 weeks or whatever, got to go where the moneys at, and ight as well get some more miles behind me before the inevitable with this dam court junk. anyway once i get this rear seal job done this week i will be MAKING SERIOUS PLANS to make this trip so my mind is set to go out towards the end of the month, so lets do this i have a viseo camera might as well bring it since i have already ofer 55 hours of tape as of now since the suabru alliance meet and the hot rod power tour

ol tim got a mac now from the film maker in LA, so he wont have to go to the college for limited access but use it anytime! now if he would get off the internet long enough to TURN IT ON maybe we'll see some progress:lol: sorry tim just a little motivation. laziness sucks yeah i have lots of drawings i have to do myself. its turning out to be a bigger project than it was originally slated for, best things come to those who wait!anyway things are shaping up with maybe towing brats to ny and hauling back legacies, gotta get the word on this uhaul place if i will be working htere anytime soon so if nothing right away i'll make plans to go by the end of the month, things are starting to fall into place its all a matter of timing(not as in belts, but i do need to fix the water pump. hoorray for open covers!)

hello matt and welcome to this fine subaru community. now that you have introduced yourself check out the marketplace forum for want to buy and for sale posts. maybe someone there will have what you want meanwhile enjot the message board and have fun

sorry guys i wont be able to make it this year, but next year can be planned for, in a trashwagon 5 II, the car we pulled from a field in iowa and put 2000 miles on it including part of the hot rod power tour. it will be sporting the full glory of trashwagons original bumpers, complete with subaru alliance II damage and the headliner, and carpet from the same roll. and a working fuel system although i have one of the original gas cans. www.trashwagon.com coming soon. same motor and tranny too. now to catch a toad and dry it out somehow. the movie should be done by then, if tim will GET OFF THE INTERNET!!! have fun, all of you

how is the water pump? i bring this up since a recent observation of my own car i towed my rx with a dolly in the spfi sedan 300 miles last week. ran a steady 230 deg in tow when the car would run 190-210 before. after i dropped the rx the car still ran at 230 deg on the highway at first i figured the load of towing was for 230, but with no towing and the same temp maybe the thermostat was bad or stretched out. then i let tim drive the car to work and the belt breaks. water pump had seized up. i freed it up with pliers and now the pulley wobbles. and this is why i bring up the water pump... well anyway i parted the new water pump from the rx and bought a thermostat, i'll change the pump first and see if she runs 230 or not and then the thermostat so i can narrow down the problem and post it here to go along with this topic

general rule for gasketed spark plugs and non gasketed plugs is: non gasket 1/8 tun past snug gasketed 1/4 past snug to squoosh it down

sounds good. not because your tranny is toast, but you have a spare that will fit like it is. thanx for filling me in on the problem, knowing all that i would replace the tranny since you have a spare, it all fits the same caleb, while im waiting for your reading comprehension book in the mail, people will come to me for answers sorry miles the only way to fix cross leaking would be to take the diff housing apart from the at itself. unless youre up for a challenge it would be easier to replace the whole tranny. you shouldnt have a hard tome finding one out there. but for all the effort maybe you could consider a 5spd of some sort

on a stock turbo unit the drain plug on the head is the water line for the turbo, the return line goes into the intake. the mpfi intake is not much different than turbo but the coolant line may not be there(would have to look) as dud mentioned you can tap into the heater hoses with a tee on turbos the pil line goes into the back of the head, and the oil return drains to the back of the head. if you look on th eback of the h ead you will see a flat spot that is round at the bottom, this is where the oil line will be on a turbo turbo heads are the same as the mpfi heads but with the passages. same ports you can put turbo heads on an n/a block and there you go. use turbo cams should you have a turbo top end for parts aside from tapping the heads i would do the oil pump and heater hose thing the plug on the oil pump is extra depending on if you have the big or small oilk pressure sending unit

if you resort to cutting the fenders, grab some regular gl fenders and krylon them. that way if you funck it up or dont likle the results, at least you preserved the integrity of the original rx fenders. do that or bring the car out here and let the rust do the work for you!

use the permatex "copper spray-a-gasket"

is your conclusin of the spline cout from what you looked at or what you read? the turbo 3at is the same as the non turbo, th eonly thing different is the stall rate of the torque converter. torque converters between turbo and non, pump shafts and anythig else are interchangeable between all 3spds ea82 and ea81. the turbo 3at has the fatter axles and doj like the 25 spline full time or MT axle, but it still has a 23 spline. so regular axles will fit on the 3at turbo, or 3at turbo axles can be used with non turbo manual trannies such as the dual range what kind of problems are you having with the tranny? if its a matter of not shifting into 3rd suspect the governor asembly before deducing the tranny itself as junk take off the cover on the paseenger side, the round piece with 3 bolts and pull out the governor shaft. inspect the gear. if the gear is worn down like an apple core this may be from low or inadequate lubrication for the front diff. the front diff takes regular gear lube liek the rear diff or a manual tranny and has its own dipstick and fill tube if the gear onb the governor looks good, clean it up really good, soak it in penetrany overnite and spray it out with carb cleaner. the shaft installs such as a distributor does but it doesnt have to align to anything, the mechanism works on centrifugal force relative to the speed of the front diff. see if this fixes your problem first before considering another tranny if it does come to replacing the tranny, all 86 and older trannys have a 3.7 final gear ratio. 87 and up turbo trannys have a 3.7 gear and non turbo a 3.9 ea81 trannies are physically the same but the rear mount is about an inch or 2 short, so an adapter would have to be fabricated report back with your symptoms

chack for any stripped teeth off the timing belt. if there is a definate seam between the teeth and the belt itself time to replace it thread the plug back in to make sure the threads are ok. you can put grease on the olug threads so if the thread is bad, the shavings will stick to the grease insted of falling in chances are the plug was not tight enough, so if the thread is good re-install it and re-torque it, make sure the belts arent broke and see if that fixes it

reminded me of an amc gremlin as well. if you are going for trashwagon look with those colors, make the blue from the wheel arches down, the body yellow, and the red follows the line that curves from the back 1/4 window down along the bottom of the windows to the corner of the fender anyway if you want my opunion the colors go good together but they should follow more the natural lines of the car

when tims cable broke it was ultra stiff as well the hill holder cable is actually the return spring, but this raises the pedal back up. you will want to make your clutch adjustments first before adjusting the hill holder its possible the cable may have been too tight. actually as the clutch wears out you wii loosen the cable to adjust it. too much tension on the cable will overextend the pressure plate, or wear on the cable itself you will want to adjust the cable by turning the nut by hand till it snugs against the fork, just enough tot take the slack of freeplay out. then you can turn it a turn or 2 or 3, to adjust your pedale height, but no more! then adjust the hill holder. calibrate the hill holder by backing in reverse, still holding the clutch after stopping shift into 1st and go. if the brakes stick its too tight. you will want it on the threshold of sticking for the hillholder to be working properly here is a story. this dude asked me to help him replace his clutch because it was slipping. he had the car for a few months after he bought it from some old lady after having a bunch of work done to it. anyway i help him tear out the tranny and he is like "oops, i forgot my parts!" anyway i took a look at the parts and they were new! but glazed. so i sanded down all the surfaces and out it back together and its perfect. whats the moral of this story? clutch cable was too tight